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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-23-2003, 11:31 AM   #4066
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davidl,

How much timing would you use and how would you gear the Kr motor you have for The Track in Maryland for 1:12? I have some Kr motors on the way, but just want a good starting point. Mike Lufaso was running a Kr at The Track last weekend and seemed to just make time. And why are people going to heavier springs?

Also, does anyone know if the Platinum motors have been released?
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:01 PM   #4067
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Greg - how much timing and what wind was Mike L. using?
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:40 PM   #4068
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davidl,

i didn't get around to ask him. i will next week though cause i should have everything i need to start racing next weekend.

anyways, i have some ideas like swapping the brush hoods to stand up hoods and use the Ti arms in the Kr which will make it a Platinum.

but i am going to try and work with the Kr as is before I try any of that stuff.
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Old 09-23-2003, 12:57 PM   #4069
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Is RCO still running pavement, or are they back to carpet again? I miss that place...
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Old 09-23-2003, 01:50 PM   #4070
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Hey Greg, when all this Triathlon stuff winds down, I will be back in for some 12th scale action, see you there..

Dave L, wondering how Irrgang iis doing, and when the new stuff is shipping ..

Casey
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:16 PM   #4071
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Was thinking of buying a CRC carpet knife 3.1. The CRC web site dont tell to much about the car.(the non red one). Does it come with tires? Bumper? Antenna and Mount? What else would I need besides a body?
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:25 PM   #4072
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Default Kawada M300RSW

Anyone tried the Kawada M300 RSW? I've ordered one!
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Old 09-23-2003, 08:03 PM   #4073
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Quote:
Originally posted by MX5
Was thinking of buying a CRC carpet knife 3.1. The CRC web site dont tell to much about the car.(the non red one). Does it come with tires? Bumper? Antenna and Mount? What else would I need besides a body?
the crc carpet knife 3.1 (#1301) comes with wheels, antenna, mount, and everything else except body & electronics. also get the front kydex (?) bumper, it will pay for itself on the arms that you will save. the nice thing about this car is that the front end and some of the rear parts use RC12L components so if your lhs carries RC12 stuff, youll have no probs
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Old 09-23-2003, 08:33 PM   #4074
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if i were you id wait for the 3.2 to be released. they said it'd come out the end of october.
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Old 09-23-2003, 10:46 PM   #4075
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our only carpet track in P.I is closing shop!!!! to bad for us racers who likes 1/12th!!! We can't run on local asphalt tracks--too bumpy. Oh well---- guess I have to dismantle and store away my rc12L3.. boo...hoo...hooo
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Old 09-24-2003, 03:54 AM   #4076
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Carpet knife comes with Jayco Green tires. Red version comes with purple/grey tires. I have the 3.1 and love it. All need a body, electronics, motor and a pinion. It comes with a 98 tooth 64 p supr. Mine had a yellow fiberglass rear axle.

David Root
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Old 09-24-2003, 04:39 AM   #4077
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MX5- I would also seariously think about looking into the SpeedMerchant Rev. 3 as well. The cars are rather similar, however there are some noticable differences once you get out on the track in some of the details of the car.

The CRC has a really high rear roll center (which can can lower by basically coverting it over to Speedmerchant side links), which does throw off handling, and I have seen and talked to the factory CRC drivers about this and they have done alot of hand modifactions in order to fix it on their own cars.

Also the way Speedmerchant's side links adjust are much smoother, more consistant, and less prone to tweak via an collision.

The Rev. 3 also has an adjustable battery tray so you can move your batts front or back, which does make a noticable difference in handling and is a great tuning aid.

No 12th scale (except the new relfex 12, although thats another story) comes with a bumper. To sum up alot of stuff I have said in previous posts... They snag boards, protect your car from stuff that it doesnt need protection from, break from hits the car can survive, and weigh alot (its like have alot of front ballast). There is no reason to run a bumper unless you want a tiny little foam one that doesnt extent beyond the chassis. (and BTW, i do run a bumper on my sedan, since they do work there, but not on a 12th scale). the Rev. 3 also comes with an antenna mount and antenna (sure about the first, 90% sure on the latter). Although its like $3, so it wouldnt be a big deal.

Also the Speedmerchant uses the Old style front end, unlike the CRC that uses the dynamic strut. The dynamic strut is normally used for mod nowadays, however to build one properly (ie so it doesnt bind, have wrong adjustments or any other issues) takes alot of time and knowing what you are doing. The old style is much simplier, less resistant to tweak from a collision, and handles the best in stock.

Also there is alot of really good information at www.teamspeedmerchant.com about the Rev. 3 and a further explanation of its advantages.
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Old 09-24-2003, 05:17 AM   #4078
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Greg - why do all of that to your Kr? It would not be ROAR legal after you did that. Just get the Platinum if you want to run the motor that way. Right now, I don't plan on running Platinum style. The Kr commutates extremely well and I can tune the other things as the track requires. I have never ran a Ti that commutates as well as the Kr does. I like that.
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Old 09-24-2003, 05:25 AM   #4079
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Casey - Irrgang is doing pretty good, considering. Your probably know about his knee operation. He had a set-back, but is now recovered from that and continuing rehabilatation. I know he just started working on the RC stuff in the last couple days, but don't know when he would ship stuff.
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Old 09-24-2003, 11:27 AM   #4080
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Quote:
Originally posted by lem2
our only carpet track in P.I is closing shop!!!! to bad for us racers who likes 1/12th!!! We can't run on local asphalt tracks--too bumpy. Oh well---- guess I have to dismantle and store away my rc12L3.. boo...hoo...hooo
i share your sadness i was there this afternoon and i was really starting to enjoy running 1/12. handling was great, thanks to your ballpen-spring-in-the-damper tip i used the eagle donuts - good wear and very consistent with wd40 as traction compound. ill try to run there this weekend and next wednesday. until then, we might as well try running 1/12 in pearl
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