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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-16-2014, 09:27 PM   #40696
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
I've owned the a 3Racing, an Integy, and a Hudy tire truer. By far the Hudy is the best. The construction is top notch and after having owned the other 2 I see the differences. However all 3 of them do quite well in truing the tire. I would say I liked my 3Racing truer better than my Integy. The numbering on the Integy was hard to read due to it being on a cutting arm that slides inside of the carrage. So you only see the numbers/marks as you wheel out the arm. The 3Racing one was set up like the Hudy with all the numbers and marks on the top and always visible. What really sets the Hudy apart in this area is that besides the marks on the arm every 2mm...there are marks on the wheel for even smaller increments much like a lathe in a machine shop.
Both Hudy and 3 racing truer are working fine. 3 racing is more affordable for new comers. Actually 3 racing is OEM for the Yokomo truer now. Using a good cutter like Hudy or GQ (or u call it CRC) not only increase the cutting speed, but also extend the life of the truer motor ( due to less loaded) .
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Old 05-19-2014, 12:12 PM   #40697
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Default Body mounting on the pod

I recently saw a Pro 10 car which mounted the back of its body to the pod using a ball stud mounted to the very back of the pod, a piece of fiberglass on the body with a second ball stud, and a turnbuckle for height adjustment. The front body mounts were used in the standard way, and the rear chassis mounts were still mounted through the body but had no clips and did no support of the body, they were just used to keep it centered on the car. In this way, the body would flex up and down on the rear body posts with the vertical motion of the rear pod, but as the pod twisted relative to the chassis with side to side weight transfer the body would be unaffected and would follow only the motion and lean of the nose.

The reason for this way of mounting is that due to the exceptional speed which Pro 10 runs at and the corresponding high downforce, any other way of mounting would cause the body to push down on the center pivot point and would require a massively heavy spring or bump-stop to prevent the car from dragging at speed. That being said, this method seems like it could give you much better handling even at lower speeds due to largely isolating the downforce of the body from the suspension motion. Has anybody tried this on the small scale stuff we run? Even running 13.5 boosted I found myself changing springs on my 1/12 car not based on handling but dragging of the chassis at speed. It seems like the perfect way of mounting the body if you were running modified especially on larger high-speed tracks.

Just a thought. Maybe I'll give it a go, if I ever run anything that high-speed again.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:46 PM   #40698
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Are the pod mounted wings that used to be run years and years ago not legal in 1/12th?





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Old 05-19-2014, 02:23 PM   #40699
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F1 used to mount the rear wings to the rear hubs because they thought it would give them more rear grip. They changed to mounting the wing on the chassis because it worked better.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:28 PM   #40700
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1/8th scale has the rear of the body attached to the upper suspension arms.

So even though the chassis bounces up and down over bumps, the body hovers perfectly. Looks crazy.
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Old 05-19-2014, 02:37 PM   #40701
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I just finished painting up my first pan car body. Also first time air brushing in about 2 years and my first time doing marble. It came out alrighish though I'm not super happy with it. More photos here: http://apexattitude.blogspot.com.au/.../its-done.html

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Old 05-19-2014, 03:00 PM   #40702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
F1 used to mount the rear wings to the rear hubs because they thought it would give them more rear grip. They changed to mounting the wing on the chassis because it worked better.
Actually, they did work better that way. It was banned for safety reasons; they weren't attached very well. I believe one of them came off at Monaco, and came dangerously close to beaning a member of royalty.

There was also a Lotus F1 car (type 88) that had all of the bodywork attached to the suspension uprights, front and rear, while the main chassis was normally suspended. It was banned before competing.
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Old 05-19-2014, 07:29 PM   #40703
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Actually, they did work better that way. It was banned for safety reasons; they weren't attached very well. I believe one of them came off at Monaco, and came dangerously close to beaning a member of royalty.

There was also a Lotus F1 car (type 88) that had all of the bodywork attached to the suspension uprights, front and rear, while the main chassis was normally suspended. It was banned before competing.
I could be wrong...but I do recall having a number of conversations with friends and looking up the engineering behind it a long time ago and it turned out that it worked better on the chassis. I remember we were debating why 1/8th nitro on-road still has the body mount tied to the wheel hubs while everyone else had gone to mounting the wing to the chassis somehow. One friend even went so far as to mount the wing to the body posts on the chassis to prove it. Can't remember where I looked it up though...maybe it was in Race Car Engineering. I'll have to check and see if I still have a copy of that at home tonight.
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Old 05-19-2014, 11:47 PM   #40704
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In 1968 Lotus came to the Monaco GP with small canard wings on the nose of the 49B and an upswept spoiler at the rear. The race was on and in the space of a few races we had front and rear wings mounted to the suspension uprights towering high above the cars. After several nasty failures the rules were changed requiring wings to be lower and firmly mounted to the chassis. That may or may not have worked better, but it was a rules change that made it happen. Zerodefect-Separate wings are no longer allowed in 1/12th scale GTP in any form. Not a good rule in my opinion.
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Old 05-20-2014, 02:11 AM   #40705
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howardcano has it right - wings and bodywork mounted directly to the uprights was banned in F1 on safety grounds.

Given the option you would always attach an aerodynamic aid directly to the upright, or unsprung mass on a car. The aero loading is then put directly into the tyre. F1 cars are very stiffly sprung because otherwise they would deck out at medium to high speed due to the aero loading. If you had the wings mounted to the uprights you could have high aero loading but a softly sprung car, which would be preferable over a stiffly sprung car.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:51 AM   #40706
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A digression:

Lotus also came up with active suspension systems to keep the ride height constant under varying aerodynamic loads. It had the advantage that there was no extra unsprung weight, as the wings and tunnels were still mounted to the main chassis. Although the main reason for its use was aerodynamics, it also worked much better over bumps than conventional springs and dampers.

I remember watching Senna running down the straight in Detroit, a very rough track. All the normally-suspended cars were bouncing and jostling about, with the driver's head almost a blur. In contrast, the Lotus' wheels were moving wildly up and down, but the chassis glided along like it was a magic carpet, and Senna's helmet was nearly motionless.

Now we return you to the regularly-scheduled thread.
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Old 05-20-2014, 05:59 AM   #40707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
A digression:

Lotus also came up with active suspension systems to keep the ride height constant under varying aerodynamic loads. It had the advantage that there was no extra unsprung weight, as the wings and tunnels were still mounted to the main chassis. Although the main reason for its use was aerodynamics, it also worked much better over bumps than conventional springs and dampers.

I remember watching Senna running down the straight in Detroit, a very rough track. All the normally-suspended cars were bouncing and jostling about, with the driver's head almost a blur. In contrast, the Lotus' wheels were moving wildly up and down, but the chassis glided along like it was a magic carpet, and Senna's helmet was nearly motionless.

Now we return you to the regularly-scheduled thread.
Also F1 is actually talking about allowing active suspension once again. Why? Can you believe as a cost cutting measure? The amount of money being spent to maximize standard passive suspensions in F1 has got so high that the relative simplicity of active systems are now cheaper.
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Old 05-20-2014, 09:17 AM   #40708
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Yup, the Williams active suspension will be back. It'll also allow more aggressive racing. More passing. F1 has been really good fun the past few years. Keeps getting better.


ROAR banned pod mounted wings? That was a bad move, unless we're allowed to mount the body to the rear pod like a 1/8th scale car. That's going to add some weight, and bind the rear up a bit though. Not sure if that'll really be a better compromise than a stiffer rear spring?
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Old 05-22-2014, 12:43 PM   #40709
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Can anyone recommend me a good spurgear för the Serpent S120 LTX.
Dose all 64 pitch touring suprs fit?

Also a good body for outdoor raring!
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Old 05-22-2014, 03:24 PM   #40710
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fliggo View Post
Can anyone recommend me a good spurgear för the Serpent S120 LTX.
Dose all 64 pitch touring suprs fit?

Also a good body for outdoor raring!
The smallest spur you can fit on the LTX is a 71T 64p from RPS but they are out of stock.

CRC does make a 72T 64P which is very good.

http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...-Spur-Gear-72T
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