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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 04-18-2014, 03:02 AM   #40621
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Hi guys,
I haven't a huge experience with these cars so I ask for a simple problem.
My crc xl has more steering on left corner than on the right ones.
I reverse the battery position but nothing happened. The Car on right turn had lots of understeer even on power, instead in left turns the car simply get istantly lose at the rear.
What can I check suspension balancing? Weight balancing?
Thanks for help
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Old 04-18-2014, 04:16 AM   #40622
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Your car is probably tweaked. Do a search on you tube for on point tuning, there is a great vid showing how to find it and fix it!
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Old 04-18-2014, 06:07 AM   #40623
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Tweak indeed is probably the problem.
Also, check the amount of steering left and right.
If placed on the track an pushed forward. Both left and right circle should be equal.

Regards Robert
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Old 04-18-2014, 07:04 AM   #40624
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I was originally running a Trinity 21T brushed motor... but... um... yeah, too much power.
I had to go down to the least torque-y motor I own, hence the silvercan. It's much more suited for 2S driving
Of course, I need far less power than racers do, because I'm on an unprepared, ungroomed surface, and obstacles come out of nowhere! haha

I have a LiPo chassis on the car, but my shorty pack is BARELY too big to fit into the slot, which is kind of a bummer...
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Old 04-18-2014, 11:19 AM   #40625
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
Hi guys,
I haven't a huge experience with these cars so I ask for a simple problem.
My crc xl has more steering on left corner than on the right ones.
I reverse the battery position but nothing happened. The Car on right turn had lots of understeer even on power, instead in left turns the car simply get istantly lose at the rear.
What can I check suspension balancing? Weight balancing?
Thanks for help
Lipo batteries are lighter on the connector side of the battery so if you reverse the battery you change the car's balance which tweaks the car.

Another thing to check is to make sure you have the same caster block on both sides of the front suspension. The stock plastic ones can sometimes be difficult to tell the difference between the 5* and 10* blocks.
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Old 04-19-2014, 06:09 AM   #40626
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Hello!

I need som gearing advice, just bought a Xray X12 2014, and have no idea where to start in my pinion choise.

My set-up:
Xray X12 2014
Trackstar 4.5T
Jaco prism tires (both front and rear), don't have the diameter in my head.
96T spur

Going to run on a pretty large outdoor asphalt track.
Also have 10.5T and 13.5T motors.

Also: Any suggestions where to buy pinions, good quality and a good price?

Thanks!
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:20 AM   #40627
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fliggo View Post
Hello!

I need som gearing advice, just bought a Xray X12 2014, and have no idea where to start in my pinion choise.

My set-up:
Xray X12 2014
Trackstar 4.5T
Jaco prism tires (both front and rear), don't have the diameter in my head.
96T spur

Going to run on a pretty large outdoor asphalt track.
Also have 10.5T and 13.5T motors.

Also: Any suggestions where to buy pinions, good quality and a good price?

Thanks!
This is the wrong thread for Xray sedan stuff but this http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray...immee20140406/ would be a good start for setup and gearing for a large asphalt track with your 4.5 motor. I really like Xenon gears, both pinion and spur http://xenon.ocnk.net
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:22 AM   #40628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avink007 View Post
This is the wrong thread for Xray sedan stuff but this http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/xray...immee20140406/ would be a good start for setup and gearing for a large asphalt track with your 4.5 motor. I really like Xenon gears, both pinion and spur http://xenon.ocnk.net
Xray X12 is no Sedan, but a 1/12th scale, so he is right here.

http://www.teamxray.com/x12/
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Old 04-19-2014, 07:30 AM   #40629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirkW View Post
Xray X12 is no Sedan, but a 1/12th scale, so he is right here.

http://www.teamxray.com/x12/
Sorry read that wrong... I still stand by my pinion and spur gear recommendation though. With a 4.5 I would be starting in the 35mm rollout range depending on speed control setup.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:05 AM   #40630
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What's a good ratio for 13.5 blinky on asphalt? I'm new to the whole pan car thing so could you reply with teeth numbers rather than roll out etc as I don't really understand all of that yet. Thank you.

-Jeremy
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:46 AM   #40631
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silberpfeil View Post
What's a good ratio for 13.5 blinky on asphalt? I'm new to the whole pan car thing so could you reply with teeth numbers rather than roll out etc as I don't really understand all of that yet. Thank you.

-Jeremy
For 13.5T blinky, target roll-out at about 85mm, for 10.5T blinky, 55mm. We cannot give you the size of pinion without knowing the rear tire diameter, also, as your tires wear, you will need to adjust your gearing to maintain the same roll-out. I would recommend getting some smaller spur gears as well for the higher turn motors(and for the mod., as the tires get smaller, you may not be able to use the 96T) For 13.5 and 10.5, get a 76t spur, for mod, 88t-92t spur. Then get pinions from about 25t to 52t.

Roll out is the distance the car will move with one revolution of the motor, to calculate roll out=3.14*tire diam/(spur/pinion). Or go to GEARCHART.com to figure out gearing.
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Old 04-19-2014, 10:08 AM   #40632
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With foam tires and their always changing diameter, unfortunately fixed ratios don't make much sense. That's why people use roll-out on pan cars instead. But it's actually not that difficult:

Just calculate gear ratio: pinion/spur (=how often the tire will rotate per motor rotation*)

[* in TCs usually the inverse number is used: how often the motor needs to rotate to give the tire one full rotation (although a TC's internal gear ratio will modify that number again)].

Take that gear ratio times the circumference of your rear tires (which is simply: diameter*Pi) and you're done.

Example (random numbers): 100t Spur, 30t pinion, tire diameter 50mm:
gear ratio: 30/100 = 0.3
circumference: 50*Pi[3.1415] = 157.075
rollout: 0.3*157.075=47,1225mm or just 47mm

With foam tires (as opposed to rubber tires with their more or less constant diameter) this is the only proper way.
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Old 04-20-2014, 06:56 AM   #40633
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Hope the cell tape isn't over the side link. Tape needs to pass between chassis and side link.

Quote:
Originally Posted by User Unrelated View Post
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:21 AM   #40634
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No, that tape that looks like it's over the side link is just a little tab so I can peel the tape up easier. It goes in-between the link and the chassis.

I drove it a bunch yesterday, and got a great idea when I was out.
I want to get some 1/12 wheels, and then try and make rubber tires by super-gluing the crap out of some tread from an old BMX bike tire onto them... I even have blue and red BMX tires, so that'd be interesting.
I have a tire balancer, so I could make it at least SOMEWHAT balanced.
If that doesn't work, I want to get some really thick tires, I am getting tired of scraping all over pebbles, but I just love the attitude of this car!
I was catching "air" with it yesterday, there was a super-smooth transition in a concrete courtyard, and I was running a circuit, and around the inside of the far corner, I was getting maybe an inch or two of air, and coming down smooth, it was awesome
There was also a slight high-bank turn on the other end of the circuit due to a rather steep angle of the concrete to help with drainage into a grate.

I was also thinking about possibly just going full bolink and putting some old buggy tires on it.
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Old 04-20-2014, 04:38 PM   #40635
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I was also thinking about possibly just going full bolink and putting some old buggy tires on it.
"Full Bolink". Thanks for the new catch-phrase! I needed one, since "Full Monty" is not always appreciated.
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