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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-30-2014, 05:43 PM   #40576
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The new blue/Green combo for 13.5 would be just fine too. I think it would help grow the stock/super stock classes. The main gripe I hear about 1/12 is the amount of tires you have to buy. With a spec tire you can go to a big race with 3-5 sets total vs 3-5 sets of a few different compounds.
Blue/Green works great for 17.5 as well. Ive had awesome runs with them. Its just my guy cant get them as of now.
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Old 03-30-2014, 06:40 PM   #40577
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
The new blue/Green combo for 13.5 would be just fine too. I think it would help grow the stock/super stock classes. The main gripe I hear about 1/12 is the amount of tires you have to buy. With a spec tire you can go to a big race with 3-5 sets total vs 3-5 sets of a few different compounds.
Or you could do it like wgt and touring and buy the tires at the event so less stuff in your luggage.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:15 PM   #40578
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Seems like a silly setup to me. Many people run speed controls that are not 1s specific with 1s batteries. Boosters and small LiFe batteries should be considerably less expensive than the cost difference between a 1s and 2s battery. Not to mention the fact that you're killing some of the cars handling ability with the additional weight of a 2s battery. What 2s battery can you even squeeze into a 1/12th scale?
I'm not in the 12th scale 2s camp
But, there are a few brands that produce upwards of 3400mah 2s lipos, in 1s form factor

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Old 03-31-2014, 12:06 AM   #40579
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I'm not in the 12th scale 2s camp
But, there are a few brands that produce upwards of 3400mah 2s lipos, in 1s form factor

With 1s weight too? What about price? Did not know they existed.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:09 AM   #40580
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Seems like a silly setup to me. Many people run speed controls that are not 1s specific with 1s batteries. Boosters and small LiFe batteries should be considerably less expensive than the cost difference between a 1s and 2s battery. Not to mention the fact that you're killing some of the cars handling ability with the additional weight of a 2s battery. What 2s battery can you even squeeze into a 1/12th scale?
Don't forget these cars used to run on 4 and 6 cell NiMh which was heavier than 2s LiPo and they ran just fine back then.
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Old 03-31-2014, 02:13 AM   #40581
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I noticed a week or so ago that Stormer was selling most of thier Jaco 1/12th scale tires for $6.99/pair. I didn't think much of it, guessing they had extra inventory and, for many people, 1/12th scale season is coming to an end. Last night, our local shop/track owner mentioned that he heard something about ROAR maybe putting a spec in place for 1/12th scale tires and also mentioned that the distributors he works with are blowing out 1/12th scale tires in preperation for this impending change. Anyone hear something similar? I can't imagine a spec'd tire for 1/12th scale.
Still are. Nothing more to it than selling down some stock near the end of the season.
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Old 03-31-2014, 07:36 AM   #40582
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With 1s weight too? What about price? Did not know they existed.
if you look carefully you will see that many of the 1s batteries are '1s2p'. they create a 7000 by packing 2 3500 in parallel

2s 21.5 might make for less extreme gearing, with 1s 17.5 the pinion and spur are almost the same size, and dealing with boosters or receiver batteries is not pain free.
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:12 PM   #40583
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if you look carefully you will see that many of the 1s batteries are '1s2p'. they create a 7000 by packing 2 3500 in parallel

2s 21.5 might make for less extreme gearing, with 1s 17.5 the pinion and spur are almost the same size, and dealing with boosters or receiver batteries is not pain free.
58 spur, 76 pinion for 17.5 - not sure I agree with your definition of "almost". Not even close to the same...

As for boosters and receiver packs - thing of the past. LRP SXX V2, Hobbywing v2.1 and v3.1, Orca (I think) and Nosram Pearl - all 1S compatible. Almost no one runs a booster or receiver pack at our UK Nationals any more - there are loads of excellent 1S speedos to choose from. HTH
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Old 03-31-2014, 01:52 PM   #40584
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LRP SXX V2 is my current choice of esc, nice little package, no external booster necessary

Tallest gear in 17.5 blinky so far 72x63, on a 90x45 rug

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Old 03-31-2014, 02:29 PM   #40585
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there is no pain with boosters or receiver batts.
All the newer esc's have built in booster's, capacitors and switches.
If you cant make that work on a chassis, you got probs!

1s is plenty fast, don't see the need to get complex with 2s batts. this would only drive up cost.
With a 3.5t motor I can get 8 mins going crazy fast, faster than mod tc's on 2s!
what's not to like??
Fastest mod TC time at our track is 13.4, pan car is 12.2 and getting faster!
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Old 03-31-2014, 06:58 PM   #40586
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58 spur, 76 pinion for 17.5 - not sure I agree with your definition of "almost". Not even close to the same...

As for boosters and receiver packs - thing of the past. LRP SXX V2, Hobbywing v2.1 and v3.1, Orca (I think) and Nosram Pearl - all 1S compatible. Almost no one runs a booster or receiver pack at our UK Nationals any more - there are loads of excellent 1S speedos to choose from. HTH
to get big (105 to 115mm) rollouts with small tires, I ended up with 60+ pinions and a 71 spur. to me 63/71 is pretty extreme and pretty much the limit on what I could fit, plus getting to the motor screws is fun when the pinion blocks a straight shot.

the point I was trying to make to the poster was that a 2s setup, using the same speedo as all the TC and offroad crowd might not be too bad of an idea. do I want to dump what I have and change over? (no, but I also think what they are doing in Japan makes pretty good sense)
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:01 PM   #40587
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to get big (105 to 115mm) rollouts with small tires, I ended up with 60+ pinions and a 71 spur. to me 63/71 is pretty extreme and pretty much the limit on what I could fit, plus getting to the motor screws is fun when the pinion blocks a straight shot.

the point I was trying to make to the poster was that a 2s setup, using the same speedo as all the TC and offroad crowd might not be too bad of an idea. do I want to dump what I have and change over? (no, but I also think what they are doing in Japan makes pretty good sense)
Seems to me it would be easier to change the motor rules to 10.5 Eurostock, will fix the crazy rollout, and pinion issue and still keep everyone on 1S as 12th should be.
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Old 04-02-2014, 07:12 PM   #40588
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if you look carefully you will see that many of the 1s batteries are '1s2p'. they create a 7000 by packing 2 3500 in parallel

2s 21.5 might make for less extreme gearing, with 1s 17.5 the pinion and spur are almost the same size, and dealing with boosters or receiver batteries is not pain free.

The current gearing I'm using here in Japan is 78/38. We try to aim for a rollout range around 65-70 mm.

As for lipos, there are lot's of brands here in Japan. G-Style, Yokomo, Trion, ect. SMC offers 1s size 7.4 lipo. The average capacity is around 3500 - 4300 Mah. The weight is around 154 grams.

As for pricing, I pay around 3000-5000 yen which equates to 30-50 USD. This is all dependent on the brand of pack.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:04 AM   #40589
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Seems to me it would be easier to change the motor rules to 10.5 Eurostock, will fix the crazy rollout, and pinion issue and still keep everyone on 1S as 12th should be.
10.5 is too fast for Stock in the US... it could serve as our Superstock class, though. But as it is now, there is a VERY even split in lap times between 17.5, 13.5, and Mod 12th at most of the big carpet races in the US.

IIRC, hot lap at Vegas last year in 17.5 was 9.5s, in 13.5 was 8.9s, and in Mod was 8.3s. Snowbirds this year... 17.5 was 9.8s, 13.5 was 9.2s, and Mod was 8.5s. It doesn't get much more even then that.

But regardless of the lap time delta between classes, why do "crazy"/large rollouts need fixing? This is 1S non-timing we are dealing with here... we aren't in any danger of overheating the motor or damaging any of the electronic components. And you can typically get most 17.5s to run just as well in the mid 90s on rollout as you can at 105-110mm... it just takes some testing to dial in the timing.
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Old 04-03-2014, 07:25 AM   #40590
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http://www.amain.com/product_info.ph...ts-74V-3200mAh

2S Lipo - in 1S case
$64.99
155g
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