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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-05-2014, 03:56 AM   #40501
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Default Lipo Advice

Thanks for your help guys, I will try and cycle the turnigy to see if they come good before buying more.

Could you also give some recommendations on how to find the sweet spot between timing and gearing.

I'm using a trinity d3.5 maxzilla, with roll out of ~68mm/rev (same as others at our club), could not seem to get much speed out of it no matter what timing I'm using. It may just be the duff turnigy cells, but any ideas appreciated.
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Old 03-05-2014, 12:02 PM   #40502
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you really need to go by lap times. With the D3.5 motors seem to like a little less timing but it all depends on the track. which turn motor? sounds like 10.5?

Cheers
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Old 03-05-2014, 07:00 PM   #40503
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Originally Posted by bama racer View Post
Thanks guys. I'll have to try some split. I've always cut the front and rear to the same size. (42.5 mm) I guess its time to cut the fronts on down!
40.5/41.5 worked well last weekend.
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Old 03-05-2014, 11:05 PM   #40504
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What are your thoughts on the Yokomo R12C3? Wha are Pro's and Con's? I've been racing 1/12 for a year now, and looking for a little bit more advanced than my Kyosho Plasma Ra.

I'm debating between this care and an R125.2.
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:47 AM   #40505
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Promod, are are you going to make it over next Friday to make a few laps?
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Old 03-06-2014, 06:45 AM   #40506
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
What are your thoughts on the Yokomo R12C3? Wha are Pro's and Con's? I've been racing 1/12 for a year now, and looking for a little bit more advanced than my Kyosho Plasma Ra.

I'm debating between this care and an R125.2.
I don't know if this is true about the yokomo offsets because I drive a VBC and xray 1/12 scales. However, I have been searching for lower priced tires and saw yokomo's at amain. I bought a set to test. The rear tires offset is about a 1/2" farther inside the tire than is standard with crc, jaco, or any other tires. So this would mean that if they were designed for the offset of the yokomo 1/12 car, then they would be the only tires that can fit on it.
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Old 03-06-2014, 08:26 AM   #40507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc_speed View Post
I don't know if this is true about the yokomo offsets because I drive a VBC and xray 1/12 scales. However, I have been searching for lower priced tires and saw yokomo's at amain. I bought a set to test. The rear tires offset is about a 1/2" farther inside the tire than is standard with crc, jaco, or any other tires. So this would mean that if they were designed for the offset of the yokomo 1/12 car, then they would be the only tires that can fit on it.
I believe some drivers also run ProOneRC wheels,and there is always the option of using a standard axle/hubs with standard wheels on the Yokomo

The Yokomo wheels are unique, but probably the best design going
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:11 AM   #40508
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
you really need to go by lap times. With the D3.5 motors seem to like a little less timing but it all depends on the track. which turn motor? sounds like 10.5?

Cheers
It's a 13.5 Jason
Track about 20m x 10m

Thanks
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:13 AM   #40509
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Originally Posted by tangerinedream View Post
It's a 13.5 Jason
Track about 20m x 10m

Thanks
Roll out of ~68 seems very low for 13.5 ... I aim for around 85mm on 12th and 65mm on WGT.
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:24 AM   #40510
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BUt for such a small track IO would say it's pretty close our is slightly larger about 12x25m and I would look at timing on track like that. Do you get any test time during a race day?

If so try this. Lower your timing to around the half way mark. Start with about 65mm of roll out and get a few clean and tight lap times in. no more than 3-4 min or running.

Then only change one thing. Gearing. Go up to 70mm and test again after charging the battery again.

Check times if Slower then go lower gearing

By jumping the gearing you will feel the difference more. Also watch how you are entering the corners with both of those Gear settings.

If your track is like mine where the straight is the width of the track and it goes into a sweeper then into 4-5 180 degree corners then you want a much lower gearing then a open track.

When you start to feel the gearing is about as good as you can get both by feel and by laptimes you can change the way the car accelerates by the timing. if you want a harder pull down the straight and need less in the infield then going down in gearing by a tooth and then increasing the timing can have that affect.

but if you need more rip out of the corner then just going down slowly in timing can help there.

Hope this helps to find your setup
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Old 03-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #40511
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Originally Posted by bama racer View Post
Promod, are are you going to make it over next Friday to make a few laps?
Yes, I should be there by 530 or 6. The track was really fun with 1/12 even considering it being really green. I think we will have a great time!
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Old 03-06-2014, 04:28 PM   #40512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
BUt for such a small track IO would say it's pretty close our is slightly larger about 12x25m and I would look at timing on track like that. Do you get any test time during a race day?

If so try this. Lower your timing to around the half way mark. Start with about 65mm of roll out and get a few clean and tight lap times in. no more than 3-4 min or running.

Then only change one thing. Gearing. Go up to 70mm and test again after charging the battery again.

Check times if Slower then go lower gearing

By jumping the gearing you will feel the difference more. Also watch how you are entering the corners with both of those Gear settings.

If your track is like mine where the straight is the width of the track and it goes into a sweeper then into 4-5 180 degree corners then you want a much lower gearing then a open track.

When you start to feel the gearing is about as good as you can get both by feel and by laptimes you can change the way the car accelerates by the timing. if you want a harder pull down the straight and need less in the infield then going down in gearing by a tooth and then increasing the timing can have that affect.

but if you need more rip out of the corner then just going down slowly in timing can help there.

Hope this helps to find your setup
Thanks, ill give it a try
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Old 03-07-2014, 09:03 AM   #40513
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Default Best 1S speed control

I'm using a core pace45 currently (after my 4yr old lrp died) and I'm not hugely impressed with it.

Out of the hobbywing v3.1 1s and speedpassion 1.1EX what do people think is best? Running 13.5 blinky class.

Thanks guys
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Old 03-07-2014, 06:39 PM   #40514
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Well, I was running the servo flat to the chassis with the horn above, which meant very little bump-toe, or maybe just a little bump toe-in. So I've now mounted it on an angle, with the horn below, and now there's a lot of bump toe-out. I'll give this a run on Friday and see how I go.
Tried it, worked well. Did exactly what I wanted to. I was 2/10 quicker and way more consistent.
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Old 03-13-2014, 03:05 AM   #40515
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Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Tried it, worked well. Did exactly what I wanted to. I was 2/10 quicker and way more consistent.

Hi!

Can you explain it more?
What gives exaclty more bump steer which work on more toe out?

Regards!
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