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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2014, 06:34 AM   #40456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I know... but how close are people actually getting to that?
My Mod car is 731grams... I try to get as close to the minimum as possible to maximize the power to weight ratio
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:23 AM   #40457
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That's not bad. I try for something around 735 to 738 just to make sure there are no problems in tech after a race. Mine is currently at 742 without any weights but with Ti screws in most places.

The biggest influences on weight that you can change easily are speedo and body. Once the body gets a bit tatty and you repair with Shoe Goo, weight goes up a lot! An LRP SXX/Nosram Pearl without the heat sink is the lightest usable speedo I can find. HTH
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:24 AM   #40458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
I know... but how close are people actually getting to that?
Rev8
Mostly kit stainless hardware
Sub 700g with one color spray-bomb body


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Old 02-22-2014, 11:09 AM   #40459
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my 12R5.2 is exactly 740g RTR

GM motor
Orion 6400 lipo
futaba s9650 servo + kimbrough servo saver
sanwa rx451R receiver
16AWG wires for the motor, 14AWG for the lipo
black art body
jaco tires

Any input for a good 10.5 motor for stock racing?
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Old 02-22-2014, 11:22 AM   #40460
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RMR parts can lower the 12r5.2 weight by 22/23 grams.

Red Mosquito Racing products

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Old 02-22-2014, 06:09 PM   #40461
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Cool thanks for the responses! Guess I could take the steel axle out and get down if needed.
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:19 PM   #40462
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I'm looking at purchasing a new bottom plate for the Plasma Ra 1/12. The stock chassis is 2.5 mm thick. Now, Kyosho has the option of a 2.25 mm chassis plate.

What conditions would you run a 2.25 mm chassis? I presume it will offer more chassis flex?
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:37 PM   #40463
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Damper tubes vs. Shock side-damper

Which one is the better choice for consistent handling thought out a race?

The reason I ask is, I was reading up on David Spashetts opinions on damper tubes and he mentioned damper tubes are very inconsistent after 30 seconds of consistent use. If so, then why do manufactures continue to use them in their kits? Why did team associated do away with their shock-side damper for damper tubes? I noticed Yokomo is still holding on to their shock side damper.

What are your thoughts on the two?
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Old 02-26-2014, 12:50 AM   #40464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Rev8
Mostly kit stainless hardware
Sub 700g with one color spray-bomb body
You must have a very light battery and motor, my Rev8 is nowhere near that with a Reedy motor and battery
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Old 02-26-2014, 06:15 AM   #40465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Damper tubes vs. Shock side-damper

Which one is the better choice for consistent handling thought out a race?

The reason I ask is, I was reading up on David Spashetts opinions on damper tubes and he mentioned damper tubes are very inconsistent after 30 seconds of consistent use. If so, then why do manufactures continue to use them in their kits? Why did team associated do away with their shock-side damper for damper tubes? I noticed Yokomo is still holding on to their shock side damper.

What are your thoughts on the two?
Damper tubes are light, cheap to manufacture, and have low stiction. They also require more maintenance, at least in dirty conditions.

Piston-style dampers are heavier, more expensive to manufacture, and have higher stiction. But they need less maintenance.

I think the handling consistency is dependent on the individual damper or tube. A damper with high stiction is going to make the car very unpredictable. But a damper tube that isn't filled properly or tends to cavitate isn't great either.
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Old 02-26-2014, 10:38 AM   #40466
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Damper tubes vs. Shock side-damper

Which one is the better choice for consistent handling thought out a race?

The reason I ask is, I was reading up on David Spashetts opinions on damper tubes and he mentioned damper tubes are very inconsistent after 30 seconds of consistent use. If so, then why do manufactures continue to use them in their kits? Why did team associated do away with their shock-side damper for damper tubes? I noticed Yokomo is still holding on to their shock side damper.

What are your thoughts on the two?
I have run a triple-shock setup on a 1/12 scale and found it to work just fine, but the extra weight and complexity were there. With everything carefully assembled, the system worked great and the car felt like a 1/12 scale car. The system was consistent, but it's biggest drawback was it was time-consuming to change damper rates in the shocks.

As for the 'stick' in the shocks, mine were CRC shocks and I built them pretty 'loose', meaning green slime, polished shock shafts, only tightening up the seal just enough so it wouldn't leak. They would extend under their own weight, so i thought that was good enough.

I switched back to dampers to be able to quickly change the fluid weight. Maybe I'll try the triple-shocks again some time.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:30 PM   #40467
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On these pan cars, the plastic that holds the center pivot ball on the rear pod, that should be done up tight right? How much play do you guys give the pivot ball?
In the associated manual, it says to slowly tighten the 2 screws so the mount can slide?
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:57 PM   #40468
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On these pan cars, the plastic that holds the center pivot ball on the rear pod, that should be done up tight right? How much play do you guys give the pivot ball?
In the associated manual, it says to slowly tighten the 2 screws so the mount can slide?
The center pivot will always try to move longitudinally as the motor pod rocks from side to side. On some cars (not all), the side links have enough elasticity that the center pivot mount can be tightened down without excessive binding. If the manual says to leave the center mount a little loose so the center pivot can move, then do so.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:00 PM   #40469
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I usually tighten my center pivot right until the pod (without anything attached onto it) doesn't drop down on it's on anymore, then back it off 1/8 of a turn. The pod then moves freely without any play.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:01 PM   #40470
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I found the center pivot on my TOP car to be very easy to adjust.
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