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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-19-2014, 03:43 PM   #40426
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Hi Guys,

does anyone know if there are any other make of side links eg. kyosho vbc ect that are the same length as the Xray ones and that would fit onto the xray car?

cheers,

Aceracer1
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:05 PM   #40427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
np
Let us know how it goes
Will do.

Would love to get some vid as well so you could see exactly what im talking about!

For 4 mins my whole car is just so planted and drives so good with perfect blend off smooth and aggressiveness. Does not traction roll or slide anywhere, can handle the fast sweepers and the slow corners beautiful!
Laps times are awesome.

Then the front still stays the same and the rear still grips the corners the same at speed etc, but when coming back on the power, you can see the rear wheels fight for traction with the outside tire biting and oversteering the car.
At this point I have to straighten the car before I can power on.

halfway of an 8 min race is not close enough!
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:50 PM   #40428
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Hi all, looking for 2 things.. kind of old school for my BMI 12rr

1 - I dont have lots of gear left to run my 1/12 so I wanted to put a brushed motor and a Novak C2 esc in it.. run it off a 1 cell lipo with a turnigy voltage booster.. I know this will run the receiver and the servo.. will the esc work?

2 - I need a body with as much room for gear as possible. I find most current bodies I cant get a clear path to the motor for the wires.. and have to be very creative to keep everything running along the center of the car because the rest of the body is sitting on the receiver esc etc..

thanks

James
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:17 PM   #40429
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Just picked up a BMI DB12R with a crc front end on it. Wired it up and ready to go. Looking fwd to spending some time in this forum to ask a bunch of questions (new to 1/12, but not to any kind of racing).

17.5, Tekin RS with TQ booster, spektrum sr300 and a micro KO ICS servo. Just wired it up with 16awg wires and charging the 1cell reedy =)
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Old 02-19-2014, 06:12 PM   #40430
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Hi all, looking for 2 things.. kind of old school for my BMI 12rr

1 - I dont have lots of gear left to run my 1/12 so I wanted to put a brushed motor and a Novak C2 esc in it.. run it off a 1 cell lipo with a turnigy voltage booster.. I know this will run the receiver and the servo.. will the esc work?

2 - I need a body with as much room for gear as possible. I find most current bodies I cant get a clear path to the motor for the wires.. and have to be very creative to keep everything running along the center of the car because the rest of the body is sitting on the receiver esc etc..

thanks

James
1 - The booster powers the receiver and servo...the ESC is powered by the main battery. It should work just fine.

2 - The Parma Speed 8 has a lot of room under it. Not the HD version but the normal Speed 8. The HD isn't bad room wise either but the vents behind the front wheels go pretty deep.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:09 PM   #40431
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OK, thanks ordered a speed 8 from my LHS - we will see how that works.

I will wire up the esc and see how we do.. guess all I can do is try..

James
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:58 PM   #40432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
Will do.

Would love to get some vid as well so you could see exactly what im talking about!

For 4 mins my whole car is just so planted and drives so good with perfect blend off smooth and aggressiveness. Does not traction roll or slide anywhere, can handle the fast sweepers and the slow corners beautiful!
Laps times are awesome.

Then the front still stays the same and the rear still grips the corners the same at speed etc, but when coming back on the power, you can see the rear wheels fight for traction with the outside tire biting and oversteering the car.
At this point I have to straighten the car before I can power on.

halfway of an 8 min race is not close enough!
What type of surface are you running on?

I've had what you describe. When I've been running on particular types of surfaces the tyres have polished up through the race and become smooth losing their grip. The more back-to-back runs you put on the one set of rears without truing them the worse it would get. It became necessary to skim them every run, even if the wear was otherwise negligible.
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Old 02-20-2014, 12:32 AM   #40433
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I'm running at adrenalin arena in Melbourne.
It's an indoor bitumen track medium to high grip, very smooth but sometimes a little dusty.

Don't know what kind of tyre wear others get, but I can burn through 1mm in 5 mins.

I'll get some vid next time I'm there. Probably Tuesday next week.

http://www.adrenalin-arena.com/AA/Home.html
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Old 02-20-2014, 05:57 AM   #40434
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Will more preload on front springs change front ride height?
I changed my front springs since I couldn't get rid of the up/down play in the front and now it made the RH higher with the same king pin length. Now, to lower the height, do I add a shim or remove a shim?
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Old 02-20-2014, 07:04 AM   #40435
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
Will more preload on front springs change front ride height?
I changed my front springs since I couldn't get rid of the up/down play in the front and now it made the RH higher with the same king pin length. Now, to lower the height, do I add a shim or remove a shim?
Hey Joe, your terminoligy is not quite right. You have not increased the pre-load you have changed the spring rate or length maybe? I assume you mean you put a stiffer spring in? it will force the front suspension higher like you have encountered but it will also make the suspension stiffer.. and I am not sure thats what you wanted.

If you want to take out play.. add shims on top of the spring - that will pre-load the spring.. and you will still have the same rate.. so the stiffness does not change. But when the car is sitting on the ground.. there should be no play.. and if your not hopping it about the front end should never unload enough that you have a sloppy front end condition.

James
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:54 AM   #40436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Hey Joe, your terminoligy is not quite right. You have not increased the pre-load you have changed the spring rate or length maybe? I assume you mean you put a stiffer spring in? it will force the front suspension higher like you have encountered but it will also make the suspension stiffer.. and I am not sure thats what you wanted.

If you want to take out play.. add shims on top of the spring - that will pre-load the spring.. and you will still have the same rate.. so the stiffness does not change. But when the car is sitting on the ground.. there should be no play.. and if your not hopping it about the front end should never unload enough that you have a sloppy front end condition.

James
I changed to a new spring, not stiffer, with everything the same and the ride height raised. The old springs weren't the same size when I put them next to each other, they must've been really worn out and collapsed.
I didn't increase the preload, was asking if I did would it change the RH?
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:56 AM   #40437
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I asked that because I dont want to use preload to change rh
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:57 AM   #40438
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A collapsed spring will lower ride height. Adding shims back in to make sure the droop is set properly will raise the ride height back up.
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:58 AM   #40439
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And what I meant by adding/removing a shim was the actual ride height shims, not the shims to get rid of play on the kingpin, sorry
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Old 02-20-2014, 09:59 AM   #40440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
A collapsed spring will lower ride height. Adding shims back in to make sure the droop is set properly will raise the ride height back up.
Thank you.
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