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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-30-2014, 03:40 PM   #40321
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i have dug out my 10yr old ae rc12L3,bumped up to b/l with a 1s lipo,car weighs in at 780gms,realistically,what chances do i have against the modern 12th cars with side dampers? mine will get its first meeting in over 10 yrs this friday,only a very small club race,i currently race an xray t4 14,it didnt get a lot of use back then so its still like new
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:40 PM   #40322
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Originally Posted by chasingthepack View Post
hi ,ive just dug out my old ae rc12L3 just for laughs and ive forgotten all about foam tyres,whats a good starting point tyre on a permanent tight technical track,i havent raced it for 10yrs so its still set up from the last time it was used so its just what shore ratings to go with,i cant lower the car too much to run the very low profile tyres so ideally donuts is what i need,i have wheels here,contact seem to be easy to get hold of for me
You need the IRS lower arms to be able to run low profile tyres : BMI-DB2010 (be sure to pre-tap these, otherwise they'll crack)
and the CRC pod plates in the back, red or even in Asso blue : CAL-4241
Think you also need the cf rear wheel spacers, otherwise your left rear tyre will rub against the underside of the pod. Also the cf front ride height spacers are very usefull : FIB-001 and FIB-002
I also used a L4 left wheel clamp (didn't like the bolt on system from the L3)

-> how do you put a 1S in a t-bar car ? Do you have a saddle pack ?
-> rear pod is not in balance with a brushless motor, but for a club night it will do (still got my L3, drive it from time to time, and I went back to brushed for that car -12X3- , even my LRP FatCobra 4cells are still very much alive ....)
-> L3 front suspension only has 0 and 10 caster blocks, most people use 5 (L4) -> we bought a CRC pro strut to solve this.

Found all mentioned above in the AMC shop.

...but if you like 12th scale, think you better don't spend much to upgrade, but better buy a new car. (we did,..eventualy :-) )
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:55 PM   #40323
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ill be running it as it is,i fitted some jaco greens 51mm rear and 50mm front,as they wear i can remove some shims at the front mounts,and lower the axle,i have 3.5mm in there at the mo and #2 down and still have 4.2 ride height, its only to hone my skills on a very small tight technical track,the speed and change of direction really helps with my concentration,i usally race on a large outdoor track and that isnt as demanding ,so the L3 should be ok as is,the lipo is on the right side of the car,the servo has been reversed and shoe gooed to the chassis,so that the lipo fits ,all electrics are in front of the motor solder tabs so i dont have wires crossing the chassis,needed 45gms to balance it hence the 780gms,i used a ip6800 80c lipo,its tight but it fits nicely within the chassis by 3mm,i have a few spares for it to tune the handling so ill see what i can do with it saturday night ,i have the 10* castor blocks but with 2 shims at the back of the upper arm its 5* according to a set up sheet ive found,i ran it in the middle when it was last raced,i have a choice of mod or stock,but i think its a 13.5 club so thatll go in once the novak booster arrives tomorrow and ive had a quick play with a mod 5.5 in it
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:18 PM   #40324
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It's been a year since I've purchased my first 1/12 scale, a Kyosho Plasma Ra. At first, I had no clue what I was getting into. Foam tires? Rollout? 1/12 Differential? Side Springs?
I had to buckle down to get familiar with these new terms and driving experience. Since I started, I've had great moments and not so great moments running my 1/12. But, when everything is in perfect working order, it's such a dream to drive. That being said, I would like to share a few things I've learned over the past year. That I hope might help you along the way.

1- These are tiny,tiny cars, and any adjustment you make it will be felt on the track. So, make adjustments on step at a time. Something as simple as changing a castor clip will have a profound impact on the cars handling. Also, if you have a front spring collapse, chunked rear tire, binding side-link, you'll notice it. If you crash hard, check for tweak in the front suspension and rear pod. A good indication you're rear pod area is tweaked is if your side-links are binding. Check out a video on youtube called i think... Onpoint Racing Chassis setup. One of the guys on this forum has great detailed videos on how find and un-tweak your car. I learned a lot from his videos, THANK YOU.

2- A wider car is a easier car to drive. However, you might have to change the side springs, front springs, damper spring in order to have the car drive the same as it was when it was in narrow trim. This maybe or maybe not true, but I felt the car push more when I switched to a wider track both front and rear.

3-Differential oil on the king pins (thin coat) and obviously in the damper tubes makes the car run nice and smooth. At first I would put a layer of differential oil on the tubes and reassemble. I noticed one tube would be "freer" than the other. So, to compensate I would add a little more oil to the "freer" side tube. I would try to make both tubes slide back and forth with the same consistency. Regardless if they are new or old tubes.

4- Balancing your chassis is key for a 1/12 tracking straight. Move your electronics around until your chassis is balanced. This made a huge difference in how my car handled and tire wear imbalance was reduced.

5- Smooth driving is fast driving. I have a few guys at my track who run their punch and throttle curves in the 40%-50% range and they're having difficulties keeping their cars on the track.. Spinning your wheels will get you nowhere and it also causes you to overshoot the apex of the corner.

6- Tires, tires, tires. Dole out the money for good tires. Trust me. If you're looking for awesome tires already cut down to race diameter, then check out Gravity RC tires. Awesome and consistent tires. Before purchasing the Gravity RC tires. I was testing different compounds front and rear. I found out that if the rear compound is close to or the same as the front.The front will ultimately take over and drag the rear around, you'll hear the rear tires make a sliding noise across the asphalt. If you go down one shore level this should cure the problem and you'll no longer hear the noise.

7- Traction additive. If your track allows it use paragon ground effects and paragon white can.

8-Don't buy a high torque motor, you'll be ripping your hair out. When I mean high torque I mean a 13.5 dia rotor. You're doomed from the beginning.

9-If you're running a Kyosho Plasma Ra like me, I highly suggest going for associated springs. They make a huge difference in handling and don't collapse as easy as kyosho springs.

10- Make sure everything is bind free and everything is operating as it should. Make sure the front king pin slides through the steering block. I learned the hard way, I couldn't figure out why the car was so inconsistent, until I was told to ream out the steering blocks.

11- 16 gauge wire is your friend, use it.


12- Differential - Sand the differential rings, slap some ceramic balls in the spur, buy a slapmaster thrust bearing kit and you'll never have to worry about the differential for a while.


13- Play around with the cars settings, don't just assume the box setting is the best setting. Tinker around with your car, change damper lube, side springs, ect, ect.


14- Read and read and read all the information that is available on the internet. Check out Redbullfix links and study petit rc setup sheets. Even check out other 1/12 manufacturer setups.
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:48 PM   #40325
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I used to do #12 religiously but nowadays I'm told that the sanding of the rings is not needed. Nor is ceramic balls. This is with my Associated 12R5.2 though. Cleaned d-rings & carbide balls and it's good.
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:39 AM   #40326
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Hi all dose the hobbywing 3.1 need a booster for one cell?also any 1 have a list on what works with out a booster
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:59 AM   #40327
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Hi all dose the hobbywing 3.1 need a booster for one cell?also any 1 have a list on what works with out a booster
the booster is for the servo and radio gear the speedo probably wont have a booster built in(my orion r10 needs a booster)so yes you will need a booster
orion make a 1/2s r10 pro which does away with the booster,but any 1s speedo shouldnt need a booster,but as any 2s will work with 1s lipos, provided you get a booster for the radio gear,ive just gone through the same thing getting a 1/12th car working,and make sure you have the voltage cut off set correctly in the esc
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:36 AM   #40328
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Hi all dose the hobbywing 3.1 need a booster for one cell?also any 1 have a list on what works with out a booster
Hobbywing makes a dedicated V3.1 1S esc that requires no booster but you can use it only in 1cell applications
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:55 AM   #40329
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Hi all dose the hobbywing 3.1 need a booster for one cell?also any 1 have a list on what works with out a booster
Dave's thread has a list of 1s esc's:
12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal

apparently the hobbywing 3.1 1s is not on the roar approved list. (a bit of a surprise, I wonder if this is a typo or clerical error)
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Old 02-04-2014, 06:53 PM   #40330
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heys guys, ive been having a battle with my 1/12th for a while. It's seems that no matter what I did or changed, my car would keep turning after having slowed down for a corner and trying to get back on power.
It never used to do this, and I've pretty much rebuilt it trying to find the cause of it with no luck.
But after I got home from racing last nite, I found my motor's rotor very slightly bend around 1/2mm. it was enough to give a tight fit against spur gear when it is turned towards spur.

Do you guys think this could be the cause of my pain??
Anyone had a similar thing happen before?
Just trying to work out if I should buy a new rotor or not before next race.

Thanks!
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:00 PM   #40331
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Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
heys guys, ive been having a battle with my 1/12th for a while. It's seems that no matter what I did or changed, my car would keep turning after having slowed down for a corner and trying to get back on power.
It never used to do this, and I've pretty much rebuilt it trying to find the cause of it with no luck.
But after I got home from racing last nite, I found my motor's rotor very slightly bend around 1/2mm. it was enough to give a tight fit against spur gear when it is turned towards spur.

Do you guys think this could be the cause of my pain??
Anyone had a similar thing happen before?
Just trying to work out if I should buy a new rotor or not before next race.

Thanks!
A bent rotor will cause a number of issues, fouled gear mesh, and, or vibration at the very least

What do you mean, when you say the car keeps turning ?
Does it stay left, or right when you try to point it straight ?

If so, that is most likely the result of a failed servo/servo saver
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Old 02-04-2014, 07:29 PM   #40332
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Could be your servo is not centering under load. try putting some weight on the front and then cycle the steering. it should be coming back to center each time

by weight I mean like 50-100 grams and I like to use paper that the car is on and draw a line along the tire where center is and see if it stops on the line each time from both directions
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:36 PM   #40333
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thanks for the replies guys!
The servo is ok and return's every time and it s fine if I don't get back on the power, but as soon as I give it even the slightest throttle before the car has straightened and it just wants to keep turning or over rotating. Once car has some speed the handling is great. even off power is great. fast corners are ok too.
It's only when I slow the car down for tighter corners that I have this problem.
When it happens, it's a blinding quick and super tight spin out.

Like I said, I actually built a whole new car with new parts and the motor is the only thing carried through which is why I had a harder look at it and found the bent rotor.
Was just wanting to know if this would be a cause, or am I missing something?
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Old 02-04-2014, 09:59 PM   #40334
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Only a truly great hit would bend the rotor, I would have thought it would have broken everything else first, though.
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Old 02-04-2014, 10:00 PM   #40335
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Well if the bent rotor causes the gears to bind when you let off the throttle and it hits the bind point it would act like a brake and lock up the rear tires causing a spin out. At constant low speed or high speed the motor torque would power through the bind and the effect would be much less. It couldn't hurt to borrow a motor and see if it still happens.
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