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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-06-2014, 03:33 PM   #40276
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
If you are running the "normal" configuration with a single center pivot ball, then the roll center is at the center pivot ball. Side links don't affect that.
Thanks for squaring me up. Under what conditions would you start messing with the center pivot?
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Old 01-06-2014, 04:15 PM   #40277
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm thinking does spacing the side links up affects roll center? Like it lowers the it? I kinda wanna experiment with that. Would you do that in high grip situations?
The height of the side links at the rear needs to be the same height as the centre pivot, otherwise you'll get a mechanical lock of the pod as it trys to move vertically.

Raising the front of the links will cause the rear axle to turn slightly away from the corner as the car rolls. Basically, the outer links flattens, becoming longer, and the inner link is more angled, so shorter. Don't try it as the car becomes undriveable!

Lowering the front links is the opposite and turns the axle into the corner. Again, I've tried it on a conventional link set up and the car just flipped over.

I've also tried it on a car with a rear suspension that had a lower trailing arm, and the 2 links mounted high, above the cells. This made the rear very stable.
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Old 01-06-2014, 07:00 PM   #40278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul Lomas View Post
The height of the side links at the rear needs to be the same height as the centre pivot, otherwise you'll get a mechanical lock of the pod as it trys to move vertically.

Raising the front of the links will cause the rear axle to turn slightly away from the corner as the car rolls. Basically, the outer links flattens, becoming longer, and the inner link is more angled, so shorter. Don't try it as the car becomes undriveable!

Lowering the front links is the opposite and turns the axle into the corner. Again, I've tried it on a conventional link set up and the car just flipped over.

I've also tried it on a car with a rear suspension that had a lower trailing arm, and the 2 links mounted high, above the cells. This made the rear very stable.

Thanks for the information makes sense...

One of the cars a few seasons ago came with lowered pivot ball also the side link matched this generated more grip..

Would have to questions just how much this effected grip.
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:53 AM   #40279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayBee View Post
Thanks for squaring me up. Under what conditions would you start messing with the center pivot?
Lowering the rear roll center will add more grip at the rear end (at the expense of front grip), moving the handling toward understeer. It also reduces the tendency for the inside rear tire to lift while cornering in high traction conditions. As Paul mentioned, the three rear pivot balls should be collinear.

Other suspension arrangements permit a wider variation of the roll center. Here's one example:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11499379-post38662.html
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:27 PM   #40280
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Hi guys, newish to 12th scale and am using 14g wire to the motor from an orion speedy.
My question is, could I get away with TQ 16g wire?
I want minimal chance of tweak because of wires.
What your thoughts? Motor is 3.5t fantom, batt is trinity revtech 100c 5mm bullets one.
Thanks!
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Old 01-08-2014, 08:33 PM   #40281
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yes, 16ga from esc to motor, 14ga from esc to batt
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:53 PM   #40282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew S View Post
Hi guys, newish to 12th scale and am using 14g wire to the motor from an orion speedy.
My question is, could I get away with TQ 16g wire?
I want minimal chance of tweak because of wires.
What your thoughts? Motor is 3.5t fantom, batt is trinity revtech 100c 5mm bullets one.
Thanks!
Holy jesus, 3.5 turn anything is WAY too much power for someone new-ish to 1/12 scale.
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Old 01-08-2014, 11:11 PM   #40283
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Thanks for that guys! So 16g is good. I left the batt wires alone, so they are still 12g.
Is there something to watch for when you go to 16 g like wires getting hot etc? Or does everyone run it just fine even in mod?

I know what your saying about being 3.5t, but it's just fine, I somehow find it easier than 13.5! I don't know why, but it clicks for me. Of course you cant be a lead finger!
We run on a brand new indoor ash felt track that is super smooth, I think that helps!
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:48 PM   #40284
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If I were to raise the inner pivot ball and side links. What mm shims should I start off with?

On a side note, there's a guy at my track running 6 mm shims under the side links. LOL
It looks absolutely ridiculous
.
I better tell him not to do that.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:10 PM   #40285
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.... this might not be what you want to hear but I can see no good results coming of adjusting your center pivot up. Years ago the pivot height was dictated by how much clearance one needed to fit the T-bar pivots. When CRC came out with the Carpet Knife V3, a link car with the battery jammed way against the back pivot, it had roughly the same pivot height as the link cars and after a long fight for handling CRC later issued a low-roll-center kit with to increase rear grip and overall traction. This lowering of the pivot made my car noticeably faster, with rear grip to spare and a much easier transition between turn-in and mid-corner, and every 1/12 car I see new today has roughly the same low-roll-center philosophy installed from the kit. That makes me think they were on to something.

Also, moving these links off the chassis could affect your durability, as when your car takes a hit it the link-to-chassis attachment has much more leverage than before.

I don't know what handling characteristics you are looking for, but I don't think this is how to get it.

Good luck though,
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:39 PM   #40286
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Default Thanks for your input

Hey, thanks for your input. The car is handling quite nicely as it stands. I wont bother with making any adjustments to the pivot balls. I'll let the guys at the track know about this, at the moment its all the craze at my track. Here in Japan, they like to experiment with these things.

I'm currently running the Plasma Ra and I'm really interested in switching to the Yokomo 12C3. Any thoughts?
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:41 PM   #40287
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I hate the fact that you would only be able to use yokomo wheels!
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:34 AM   #40288
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I hate the fact that you would only be able to use yokomo wheels!
You don't have to use only Yomomo wheels. Install a 12R5 axle and hubs then you can run whatever wheels you want.
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Old 01-16-2014, 06:02 PM   #40289
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Anyone experienced saddle pack Lipo (3.7V, not 7.4V) on T-plate 12th car?
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Old 01-16-2014, 09:27 PM   #40290
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Speedzone makes a 1s saddlepack for 12ths. Check my signature for the link to the store.
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