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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #40261
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Wow I could never get my motor hot let alone have issues with heat using 1s lipo's When i was running 10.5 I would only use 3000 mah per run(small track)

I would take the pinion off and see how the car rolls on it's own. Do to the Wheels spin for a long or short time. Any binding in the rear pod.

Check the diff for slippage

Then test with a different motor and see if the MAH Draw is the same or better.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:10 PM   #40262
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Wow I could never get my motor hot let alone have issues with heat using 1s lipo's When i was running 10.5 I would only use 3000 mah per run(small track)

I would take the pinion off and see how the car rolls on it's own. Do to the Wheels spin for a long or short time. Any binding in the rear pod.

Check the diff for slippage

Then test with a different motor and see if the MAH Draw is the same or better.
Yeah man. When I got it up to 40* timing I was over 200 degrees. I didn't think that was possible with 1s either.

All bearings are cleaned and checked every race day and all move freely.

I guess it really leaves the problem to be with the motor. I'll swap it out. It is basically brand new, wonder if I got a defective one or if one of the bearings in it is bound up.

Hrm.

Luke
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:11 PM   #40263
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Originally Posted by lpittman View Post
Still having this issue and looking for more feedback.

I have an XRay X12 and was originally running a Tekin RS Gen 2 with a ProTek LiFe, a Reedy Mach 2 13.5 and a Reedy 7000 mAh battery.

I am now running an Orca VX1 ESC instead of the Tekin.

In both cases I am drawing 5000 to 6000 mAh every 8 minute heat, where the other 12th drivers are drawing in the range of 2500 to 3500 with similar setups (all 13.5, various ESCs including another Orca VX1).

I am running around an 85 rollout and have tried timing from 20 up to 40 in various steps. Temps haven't been an issue till I got up to 40, so I'll be backing it down anyway.

Running 16g wire to the motor and 14g to the battery.

This is becoming an issue because my charger's max rate is 6A and I almost never get a full charge unless we are on lunch break.

Could this motor just be bad or perhaps not optimized for 1s racing?

Any suggestions or ideas would be hugely appreciated.

Luke
Are you just tearing it up and blowing out your competition, or is everybody on basically the same racing pace?

In 17.5 my car uses MUCH more juice than my buddies, I had 8 minute heats take 3300mah in 17.5. Running 13.5 boosted I used a hair more, like 3600. The biggest thing that causes this is driving style, I drive in hard and make the car slow itself down with setup, throttleing back and forth between half throttle and full.

I'm not sure if there is a 'fix' for this if nothing is getting hot. I've run different motors and they all drew the juice more so than other racers. I would recommend two batteries, and have one constantly on the charge if you don't want a different charger.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:13 PM   #40264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpittman View Post
Still having this issue and looking for more feedback.

I have an XRay X12 and was originally running a Tekin RS Gen 2 with a ProTek LiFe, a Reedy Mach 2 13.5 and a Reedy 7000 mAh battery.

I am now running an Orca VX1 ESC instead of the Tekin.

In both cases I am drawing 5000 to 6000 mAh every 8 minute heat, where the other 12th drivers are drawing in the range of 2500 to 3500 with similar setups (all 13.5, various ESCs including another Orca VX1).

I am running around an 85 rollout and have tried timing from 20 up to 40 in various steps. Temps haven't been an issue till I got up to 40, so I'll be backing it down anyway.

Running 16g wire to the motor and 14g to the battery.

This is becoming an issue because my charger's max rate is 6A and I almost never get a full charge unless we are on lunch break.

Could this motor just be bad or perhaps not optimized for 1s racing?

Any suggestions or ideas would be hugely appreciated.

Luke
Your settings don't sound far off
30' 90 roll with a G2 Reedy 90'x45' track is close
2500-3000ma is the norm
Could be an issue with that motor
Would be helpful if someone could loan you a motor to test with their settings
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:14 PM   #40265
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Are you just tearing it up and blowing out your competition, or is everybody on basically the same racing pace?

In 17.5 my car uses MUCH more juice than my buddies, I had 8 minute heats take 3300mah in 17.5. Running 13.5 boosted I used a hair more, like 3600. The biggest thing that causes this is driving style, I drive in hard and make the car slow itself down with setup, throttleing back and forth between half throttle and full.

I'm not sure if there is a 'fix' for this if nothing is getting hot. I've run different motors and they all drew the juice more so than other racers. I would recommend two batteries, and have one constantly on the charge if you don't want a different charger.
We are all basically on the same pace. Yep adding another battery to the cycle is a good idea for now.
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:18 PM   #40266
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Your settings don't sound far off
30' 90 roll with a G2 Reedy 90'x45' track is close
2500-3000ma is the norm
Could be an issue with that motor
Would be helpful if someone could loan you a motor to test with their settings
Anything I can check for in the motor?
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:30 PM   #40267
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Anything I can check for in the motor?
There are motor checking tools out there
But unless you have 2 of the same motor, they don't show much, imo
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:31 PM   #40268
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There are motor checking tools out there
But unless you have 2 of the same motor, they don't show much, imo
Anything to physically look for if I take it apart?
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:41 PM   #40269
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Anything to physically look for if I take it apart?
Don't think you need to disassemble
but, check to see if rotor moves free from any binding

With a good motor, the the rotor will float on the bearings a bit
If you gently pull the rotor out on the pinion end, and release it, the rotor should snap back into place, not sticking on either end
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:58 PM   #40270
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I run the g2 reedy 10.5 don't have any problems with it in the same way you are.

Are you running any +exp or epa turned past 100 maybe something like that is causing a problem
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:09 PM   #40271
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There is a specific resistance that each coil is supposed to have. I just don't know what that specific motor is supposed to be.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:17 PM   #40272
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Thanks for all the info. Nope, not running any +exp and end points are at 100%. This is blinky too.

I will try another motor.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:18 PM   #40273
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Double post.
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:21 PM   #40274
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm thinking does spacing the side links up affects roll center? Like it lowers the it? I kinda wanna experiment with that. Would you do that in high grip situations?
If you are running the "normal" configuration with a single center pivot ball, then the roll center is at the center pivot ball. Side links don't affect that.
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Old 01-06-2014, 03:26 PM   #40275
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Using the spacers just preloads the side springs does it not?
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