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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-24-2013, 04:08 PM   #40246
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Has anyone tried the trinity trc 12th scale tires?
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Old 12-24-2013, 04:11 PM   #40247
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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
Does this work for the D3.5 17.5 motors? What does full timing mean?
When you turn the timing all the way counter clockwise.
With the d3.5 set between 16-20 and leave it.
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Old 12-24-2013, 04:19 PM   #40248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurcyP View Post
i just found my new car!

that looks perfect, top job redbull
I think you'll like the speed merchant especially with that front end.
Both crc and rebel are great choices.
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Old 12-24-2013, 04:50 PM   #40249
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Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
Has anyone tried the trinity trc 12th scale tires?
The tires themselves seem fine but I had issues with the rims warping.
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Old 12-25-2013, 07:05 AM   #40250
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
The tires themselves seem fine but I had issues with the rims warping.
Warping during use? I would think they would need to be in direct heat for something like that to happen.
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Old 12-25-2013, 11:41 AM   #40251
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Warping, bending...when you hit something they warp or bend and stay that way. A shame too...I really liked the rim design but they are just too weak.
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Old 01-03-2014, 02:37 AM   #40252
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Been playing with my setup wanted to see if anyone else can explain some of the setup choices of which I have made.

Pod droop

Will run between 1.2 - 2.0 mm this range is large what effects does this provide ?

Front brace

Just switched to xenon front end and don't have a brace to fit. My understand is more steering is given without a brace however everyone tells me carpet u should always run a brace. Can anyone enlighten me what is the best direction
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Old 01-03-2014, 10:22 AM   #40253
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Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
Been playing with my setup wanted to see if anyone else can explain some of the setup choices of which I have made.

Pod droop

Will run between 1.2 - 2.0 mm this range is large what effects does this provide ?
Pod droop does a couple of things. Most notably, pod droop allows for the car to remain in contact with the track surface if it is bumpy and will thus make the car easier to drive if the surface is bumpy. However, increasing pod droop also causes more weight transfer to the front of the car upon slowing, which will make the car more aggressive on turn-in. As such, you will likely want to run more pod droop if the track is bumpy, but you also don't want to add too much as it will make the car feel very aggressive. 1 mm is a perfectly fine starting point.

Quote:
Front brace

Just switched to xenon front end and don't have a brace to fit. My understand is more steering is given without a brace however everyone tells me carpet u should always run a brace. Can anyone enlighten me what is the best direction
Not sure who tells you that you should always run the brace... Running without the brace will give you slightly more steering. I believe that Keven runs with the brace, but he uses the old AE brace since he spaces his caster blocks in by 2 mm (and thus needs a shorter brace.) I also know that Cyrul doesn't use a brace, as he likes the increased steering. So really, try both ways and see which you prefer.
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:56 AM   #40254
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I have a top rebel 12.
I can not understand how front higne pin and springs should be shimmed in 1/12. Most of all I can not find any info on what do shimms just above the steering blocks do...
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:17 AM   #40255
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Our club recently changed over from 13.5 and mod to 10.5 blinky in 12th.
So I got a LRP X12 motor and put the -- timing insert in witch gives the max of +10deg of timing.
The thing is I noticed that now it seems as if the car has a very slight stutter in the initial throttle but only if I try to make it go as slow as possible.
I'm running a 76T spur and 37T pinion using a LRP Flow ESC. Everything is the same except the motor swap.
I don't know, I might just be OCD but it feels to me if there is a slight hesitation before it moves, but like I said, only if I really really pull the throttle slightly.

Could this be because of the high timing or because its a lower turn motor?
Any advice?
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Old 01-04-2014, 10:46 AM   #40256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charel View Post
Our club recently changed over from 13.5 and mod to 10.5 blinky in 12th.
So I got a LRP X12 motor and put the -- timing insert in witch gives the max of +10deg of timing.
The thing is I noticed that now it seems as if the car has a very slight stutter in the initial throttle but only if I try to make it go as slow as possible.
I'm running a 76T spur and 37T pinion using a LRP Flow ESC. Everything is the same except the motor swap.
I don't know, I might just be OCD but it feels to me if there is a slight hesitation before it moves, but like I said, only if I really really pull the throttle slightly.

Could this be because of the high timing or because its a lower turn motor?
Any advice?
NOOOOOOOOOO!!! Get that +10 out of there and put the zero (2-dot) back in, and that's still pretty aggressive for a 10.5 X12, I'm amazed it didn't burn up right off the bat. With the zero, you still have 37.5 degrees of timing, which is plenty for an LRP wind.
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:34 AM   #40257
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
NOOOOOOOOOO!!! Get that +10 out of there and put the zero (2-dot) back in, and that's still pretty aggressive for a 10.5 X12, I'm amazed it didn't burn up right off the bat. With the zero, you still have 37.5 degrees of timing, which is plenty for an LRP wind.
LOL, I thought it was timing....
I haven't had it on the track yet, was just bench testing and driving up and down in my kitchen.
But thank you for the advice, I will do that right a way.
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Old 01-06-2014, 02:32 AM   #40258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
NOOOOOOOOOO!!! Get that +10 out of there and put the zero (2-dot) back in, and that's still pretty aggressive for a 10.5 X12, I'm amazed it didn't burn up right off the bat. With the zero, you still have 37.5 degrees of timing, which is plenty for an LRP wind.
I would even try to do the 4 dot insert in, and give it the lowest amount of timing, 27.5 degrees it still is then, gear up a bit to get the topspeed you need.
The torque of the motor is still enough, but it stays really cool then, and this will give you still good performance at the end of a run!

I run my X20 this way and it's pretty fast!
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:24 AM   #40259
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Still having this issue and looking for more feedback.

I have an XRay X12 and was originally running a Tekin RS Gen 2 with a ProTek LiFe, a Reedy Mach 2 13.5 and a Reedy 7000 mAh battery.

I am now running an Orca VX1 ESC instead of the Tekin.

In both cases I am drawing 5000 to 6000 mAh every 8 minute heat, where the other 12th drivers are drawing in the range of 2500 to 3500 with similar setups (all 13.5, various ESCs including another Orca VX1).

I am running around an 85 rollout and have tried timing from 20 up to 40 in various steps. Temps haven't been an issue till I got up to 40, so I'll be backing it down anyway.

Running 16g wire to the motor and 14g to the battery.

This is becoming an issue because my charger's max rate is 6A and I almost never get a full charge unless we are on lunch break.

Could this motor just be bad or perhaps not optimized for 1s racing?

Any suggestions or ideas would be hugely appreciated.

Luke
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:38 AM   #40260
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I'm thinking does spacing the side links up affects roll center? Like it lowers the it? I kinda wanna experiment with that. Would you do that in high grip situations?
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