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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 12-17-2013, 11:38 AM   #40231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Hobbywing 1s version 2.1, LRP Stock Spec v2 (discontinued). Both are voltage-boosting ESC's, so 1s is just peachy.
I have a tendancy to buy only ESC's that can support unlimited motors.
Team Orion R10 Pro will still work

Regards Robert
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Old 12-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #40232
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Default hw 2.1 1S 120A with SP 4.5T or 5.5T V3.0

Hi!

I'm looking for good starting point with that engine.
My set is:
1S HW 2.1 120A (latest modified soft for that speedo, can be done on stock)
4.5Tor 5.5T Speed Passion V3.0 engine

I'm asking there because I can't get answer in HW thread ...

Any setup?

Thank you!
Michal
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Old 12-20-2013, 07:34 PM   #40233
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Hi guys.

Thinking about trying 1/12th scale at a track that's opened in my hometown. I've raced 1/10th scale pan car oval for 20 years, but never any onroad, so there's gonna be a learning curve for me.

So have a couple questions.

First, the track itself is about 40x80 feet. It has one long straightaway and the rest of the track is pretty much a couple of short chutes and some esses. What kind of rollout would you all suggest to start and how many amps should I set my motor at. I'd be running a Novak Ballistic with a GTBII.

Also the oval class I'm used to running uses the WGT tires, and they're simply awesome! Recently, TM tires has put out some WGT tires for 1/12th scale also Has anyone had the opportunity to try these out? How do they hold up? Would you suggest another choice of tire compounds? The carpet is commercial loop, I'd say medium grip.

Thanks for any imput
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Old 12-21-2013, 12:01 AM   #40234
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What motor Turn are you using? We have a very similar track (Slightly smaller) and I run a 88-92mm rollout again gearing depends on your tire size. I run a 46/72 with 42mm tires

For that track stick in the 90's for 17.5 and the lower the turn the lower the Rollout


Cheers
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:52 AM   #40235
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Oh forgot to mention, 17.5
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Old 12-21-2013, 08:59 AM   #40236
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So in other words, 3.5in rollout? And what about tires, what would you recommend to start with that would make it driveable for me an allow me to run laps without being on the edge all the time?

EDIT: went to the track today and they've just announced that they're switching to a brand new CRC carpet! So I expect the grip level to be higher from what I've heard. So I guess tire choice will differ alittle?
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Last edited by Outlaw 44; 12-21-2013 at 02:17 PM.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:29 AM   #40237
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Hi guys

thought id post here instead of making a thread


whats the most "friendly" or more..forgiving chassis to buy? ive had the serpent s120 ltx v2 and the yokomo r12c3 and both are very much catered to those who can race 1/12 on a daily basis.

id ideally want a chassis that is more or less hassle free, one i can confidently take out of a bag on a monday night, race, have fun, pack it away do general maintenance and repeat again next week, tyre truing etc isnt an issue but the serpent and yokomo i was having to rebuild diffs on the night and it was just hassle and was not enjoying myself at all.

I was looking at the CRC carpet knife XTI as that looks very simplistic but as we know, devil is in the detail.

So what do you suggest guys
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:34 AM   #40238
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I've had several cars and I, like you, prefer not to do that much to maintain the car. I also want durability because my cars seem to attract the pipes.

The CRC xti was a good car, but the castor blocks are easily broken and also they come in 3 sizes, 0, 5, 10. You have to have very keen eyes to be able to tell the difference between them because they aren't marked.

The Xray X12 is a very good car. It is durable and relatively low maintenance. It also handles very well. However, it is a little more expensive and heavy. But you can find the car and parts and a lot of places.

My latest car is the VBC lightning 12. It seems to be even better than the Xray and is a lot lighter. However, you have to replace the stock camber turnbuckles with titanium ones or you will be bending them easily (they are soft steel). This car is currently on sale for $170 at timezonehobbies .com, so it is a great price.

I have friends that drive the T.O.P. or v-design cars, but I haven't owned either one. They both seem to be fast and durable, also. I think they are harder to purchase thought, but somebody here could probably point you in the direction of where to buy them.
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:52 AM   #40239
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VBC L12, good and similar to the original AE R5.2
Both are durable, easy to find parts etc..

Another option, with a nearly zero maintenance front end
And one of the lightest kits out of the box, no lightweight hardware needed
Rev8
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:58 AM   #40240
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i just found my new car!

that looks perfect, top job redbull
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:58 AM   #40241
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opps, internet went silly and posted twice!
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:03 AM   #40242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrobeast View Post
New to 12th scale running 17.5 and wondering what others are gearing Revtech motors at for big tracks. 100x45 or so.
Comparing to others up front I can keep up but those last 2 minutes they are 2-4 tenths faster.

I've tried high rollout little timing, low rollout high timing and high rollout high timing but it doesn't make a difference toward the end of the race. When running low rollout and low timing I might as well pull it off after a couple laps.

Any help is appreciated.
Does this work for the D3.5 17.5 motors? What does full timing mean?
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:21 AM   #40243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurcyP View Post
Hi guys

thought id post here instead of making a thread


whats the most "friendly" or more..forgiving chassis to buy? ive had the serpent s120 ltx v2 and the yokomo r12c3 and both are very much catered to those who can race 1/12 on a daily basis.

id ideally want a chassis that is more or less hassle free, one i can confidently take out of a bag on a monday night, race, have fun, pack it away do general maintenance and repeat again next week, tyre truing etc isnt an issue but the serpent and yokomo i was having to rebuild diffs on the night and it was just hassle and was not enjoying myself at all.

I was looking at the CRC carpet knife XTI as that looks very simplistic but as we know, devil is in the detail.

So what do you suggest guys
On Point OP12C.1. Its pretty durable car. Uses the R5 front end.
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:40 AM   #40244
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its not all about being durable, that helps but simplicity as well, the rev 8 sport seems to have it, the old school front suspension will work in my favour
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Old 12-23-2013, 09:54 AM   #40245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurcyP View Post
id ideally want a chassis that is more or less hassle free, one i can confidently take out of a bag on a monday night, race, have fun, pack it away do general maintenance and repeat again next week, tyre truing etc isnt an issue but the serpent and yokomo i was having to rebuild diffs on the night and it was just hassle and was not enjoying myself at all.

I was looking at the CRC carpet knife XTI as that looks very simplistic but as we know, devil is in the detail.

So what do you suggest guys
Every pan car uses the same type of diff. The only difference being is a few use a thrust bearing where most do not. So having to rebuild diffs is going to be a problems no matter what car you get. The thrust bearing does make for a little bit less in the maintenance as it is designed to take the side stresses where a normal bearing is not. But that comes at a trade off for a diff that is a bit slower than others in action. Slapmaster makes a thrustbearing kit for pan cars if you are looking to go that route.
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