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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-26-2013, 09:23 PM   #40201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Misiek View Post
Noobie question,

On average, how many sets of tires do you guys carry with you to the track and how often do you have to buy a new set?
Double edge sword. cut them big with economy in mind, and as a beginner, they are much more likely to chunk and get messed up. cut them small and they seem to hold up better but they dont last as long. keep at least two sets in case you break a rim. I end up using one set per club race. If i can match up a set out of my used pile ill use them.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:25 PM   #40202
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Originally Posted by Misiek View Post
Noobie question,

On average, how many sets of tires do you guys carry with you to the track and how often do you have to buy a new set?
Hey, Its actually a really good question, I am personally getting into 1/12 scale myself. Back when we were running 1/10 foam TC. Id usally have 2 compound choices for front and rear. And usally have 3 pairs of each. 1 pair that i would have ran last time out..1 set fresh. and 1 pair uncut..But with that been said. We have/had zero hobby shop support on hand. So if you running at a local track that runs it as a class. They really should have tires on hand with a few different choices. (what ever combos that work there). If you travel to race all over the place, you will have to talk to the local guys that are regulars on the carpet to get info the carpet and traction levels..

I hope that help a little.

Nick K
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Old 11-26-2013, 10:12 PM   #40203
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Originally Posted by Misiek View Post
Noobie question,

On average, how many sets of tires do you guys carry with you to the track and how often do you have to buy a new set?
one per run. My local track has 3 quals and a main. So 4 sets I bring with me on raceday so I wouldn't need to change ride height every round. I cut them before the next race. I usually run the tires out of the box for longevity and I get about 4-5 races on them before I need to buy a new set. This is on asphalt btw
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Old 11-26-2013, 11:06 PM   #40204
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Originally Posted by Misiek View Post
Noobie question,

On average, how many sets of tires do you guys carry with you to the track and how often do you have to buy a new set?
On asphalt, i get 2 meetings out of a set of fronts and 1 out of a set of rears. 3 x 8min quals and 15 min final. I run the tires large with a bead of CA around the outer edge of the rears to limit chunking if i spin out.

I generally try and have 1 set of hard fronts and 2 sets of soft rears with me at any one time and a set of mediums vacuum sealed just in case things change out of the ordinary.

I also only use 1 or 2 brands of tire, depending on what is available, Exceed, Ennetti or Ulti. My preference is for the first 2, as they come full size and the Ulti's come cut, but have a nicer foam that grips better and requires less dope to make them work nicely.
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Old 11-30-2013, 05:48 AM   #40205
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A new indoor asphalt track has just opened up in my town and they are interested in bringing in 1/12th scale there. The track is perfect for that class, grippy and relatively flowing.

I have driven 1/10th touring cars most of my life, never really touched a pan car, however I am interested in trying it out.

So I don't fill this thread with tons of newbie questions, are there any good sites that I can go to (or links within this thread) where I can get good information in starting out in 1/12th scale racing?
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Old 11-30-2013, 06:30 AM   #40206
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I run asphalt track . You can pm me questions. As fot setup related issue, just download the xray xii setup guide. that should cover most of the questions.
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Old 11-30-2013, 09:10 AM   #40207
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Originally Posted by Burlap View Post
A new indoor asphalt track has just opened up in my town and they are interested in bringing in 1/12th scale there. The track is perfect for that class, grippy and relatively flowing.

I have driven 1/10th touring cars most of my life, never really touched a pan car, however I am interested in trying it out.

So I don't fill this thread with tons of newbie questions, are there any good sites that I can go to (or links within this thread) where I can get good information in starting out in 1/12th scale racing?
You will find a ton of info here:

12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:28 AM   #40208
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Have a look here;

www_thercracer_com/2013/10/tamiya-rm01x-build-and-review-part-4.html
I'm not allowed to post URL's.

Hi Paul,

thank you for the link to the article about the Front End. I really enjoyed reading it. It’s very well written from a passionate racer and gave me some good hints.
Nonetheless, when it comes to the 2 degrees steering knuckles the description of the way they are mounted is a bit confusing.

Quote:
He suggested running the 2 degree insert to add 2 degrees positive camber, then shortening the top link to return the wheel to its 1.5 degree camber setting. This leans the kingpin into the car giving very different geometry as you apply steering.
I don’t understand what's meant by: “leans the kingpin into the car”.
If the top end of the King Pin would be kicked outboard the Rollcentre high increased. This would confirm the described driving experience.
Quote:
The idea is to calm the car down entering a corner, but to give good steering as you apply the lock.
I did some rough measurements and a bit off fooling around with CAD. The basic dimensions are:

Front Tire diameter: 41mm
Ground Clearance: 3,5mm
Camber: 1,5deg
Front Axle Wide: 172mm
Recative Caster Block: 0deg
Reactive Caster Block spaced 2mm inboard (short Asso 5.1 Frontbrace)


The green lines show the basic condition of my Asso R5.2. The pink lines show the top of the King Pin kicked 2 degrees outboard. With 1,5 degree camber the King Pin angle is +0,5 degree to Z. On the contrary the blue lines represent the top of the King Pin been kicked 2 degrees inboard. It leads to a King Pin angle of -3,5 degrees towards Z.
1/12 forum-rollcenter.jpg
Rollcentre height standard: 8,6mm
Rollcentre height King Pin 2deg outboard (+0,5deg): 12,9mm
Rollcentre height King Pin 2deg inboard (-3,5deg): 4,3mm


The values might not be 100 percent correct because of the rough measuring I did, bit it gives a good impression of what happens. The change in the static Rollcentre height appears to be quite drastic. It might advantageously to get hold of the 1deg and 2deg Steering Knuckle to raise the Rollcentre on high grip Tracks.

There were some more spots in the article I’d like to quote.

Quote:
There is a choice of 2 holes for the steering balljoint.
Maybe the front holes are intended for 1/12 while the rear holes are fitting the geometry on 1/10 pancars (World GT).

Quote:
Kingpin time. No play whatsoever, and the smoothest action I have ever seen in a 1/12th front end. My previous builds have had polished kingpins and lube and not achieved this standard! I am undecided whether to even lube the kingpin, as it will only attract dust and dirt and promote wear. This quality of component fit alone justifies purchasing this front end in my eyes.
Nice to know, because the whole axle isn't to expensive.

Quote:
I decided to treat myself to the Xenon front springs… If they live up to the CRC standards, and I have no reason to believe they will not, they should hold up well with none of the collapsing I have experiences on the AE springs.
I can confirm that my fella Chris and I also experienced collapsing of the AE front springs after a view races. We measure the length from time to time and they become shorter. A pair of AE 0.022 springs I bought had 2 different lengths just out of the bag. I tried to pull them to the same length but it wasn’t possible. So I did not use them because they would have tweaked the car.
Quote:
… He demonstrated how inconsistent tube dampers are by working the damper by hand for 30 seconds when it was off the car. It then gave zero damping effect. After waiting a handful of seconds, the grease thickened back up and returned to normal. …
Maybe it’s worth getting the parts #4693 and #4694 of the R5.1 Lipo Kit. Would they fit on the R5.2?
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Old 11-30-2013, 10:29 AM   #40209
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I'm relatively new to 1/12 and have a problem I can't seem to shak. The car wants to track left at top speed on straights. I know sometimes that can be caused by the fibers of the carpet, but no one else seems to have this problem in the class.
I re-tweak the car, I recently changed servos (Spektrum A5040), rotate tires to keep size the same, and the diff is good. Any ideas?
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:16 AM   #40210
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Originally Posted by BadSign View Post
I'm relatively new to 1/12 and have a problem I can't seem to shak. The car wants to track left at top speed on straights. I know sometimes that can be caused by the fibers of the carpet, but no one else seems to have this problem in the class.
I re-tweak the car, I recently changed servos (Spektrum A5040), rotate tires to keep size the same, and the diff is good. Any ideas?
Just an FYI .. If I recall correctly with Spektrum servos, the spline is offset by 1mm or so compared to other servos, so in some cases it does not sit dead center in the car so your steering links will be of different lengths ..

Things to check -

Car Balance - left to right
Bearings - all bind free
Ride height - left to right (some manufacturers arms are not the same L/R)
Front Springs - is one collapsed compared to the other
Front Droop - is it the same
Front Toe - is it the same
Front Camber - is it the same
Tires - are they coned to one side
Side Springs - collapsed
Body - rubbing on one side
Tweak - caused by wires after the body is put on ..

Could be a lot of things, you'll have to go through and check everything.
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Old 11-30-2013, 11:28 AM   #40211
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Originally Posted by BadSign View Post
I'm relatively new to 1/12 and have a problem I can't seem to shak. The car wants to track left at top speed on straights. I know sometimes that can be caused by the fibers of the carpet, but no one else seems to have this problem in the class.
I re-tweak the car, I recently changed servos (Spektrum A5040), rotate tires to keep size the same, and the diff is good. Any ideas?
You need to have a slight amount of play in the rear axle. To do this when putting the right side hub on slide a piece of paper between the hub and the bearing then tighten down the screw for the hub. Since both bearings are on one side of the diff...if you set the axle too tight it will cause more drag on the bearing side of the axle and the car will pull to one side.
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Old 12-01-2013, 06:57 PM   #40212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker View Post
I run asphalt track . You can pm me questions. As fot setup related issue, just download the xray xii setup guide. that should cover most of the questions.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
You will find a ton of info here:

12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal
Thank you for the information! I will read up on it before going out and buying.
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Old 12-02-2013, 05:35 AM   #40213
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Thumbs up What's the best way to set up a in door track.

Hi all,
If I was to setup an indoor carpet track for 1/12 & 1/10.
What should be the best way to mark out, board, protect cars, from each other.
What's easy to move and reset up?
What will minimize damage?

What's your thoughts ?

Steve H
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Old 12-02-2013, 06:15 AM   #40214
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We use plastic downspout that is velcroed to the track It is soft when you hit it but generally does not come off the track. easy to change layout and does not hurt the carpet as long as you are gentle with removing it.


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Old 12-02-2013, 11:08 AM   #40215
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Default Revtech 17.5 gearing

New to 12th scale running 17.5 and wondering what others are gearing Revtech motors at for big tracks. 100x45 or so.
Comparing to others up front I can keep up but those last 2 minutes they are 2-4 tenths faster.

I've tried high rollout little timing, low rollout high timing and high rollout high timing but it doesn't make a difference toward the end of the race. When running low rollout and low timing I might as well pull it off after a couple laps.

Any help is appreciated.
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