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KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-23-2013, 03:43 AM   #40186
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Currently running 2 holes in my piston however thinking of testing 3 holes which came with my shock .. has anyone tested and what effect will it have on the car?
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:36 AM   #40187
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What is the latest front suspension for the 12r5.2 from japan that is supposed to be better than the stock
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:09 AM   #40188
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I believe some of the team guys are using a Xenon front end.

AWD
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:30 AM   #40189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigcracing View Post
What is the latest front suspension for the 12r5.2 from japan that is supposed to be better than the stock
VSS Xenon

http://www.zen-racing.co.uk/catalog/...roducts_id=446
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Old 11-24-2013, 08:55 AM   #40190
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Hi,

I'm curious if someone has tried the new Xenon VSS Front-End so far.

I think it gives you the opportunity the adjust the Rollcenter high independently from the camber angle. But the Rollcenter can also be adjusted with shims on the kingpin between the front knuckle and upper eyelet. Furthermore if you have a reactive caster block that allow different heights of the hinge pin. (Serpent, Hyperdrive, KSG, McPappy)

What else does it change? Maybe the feeling of the steering? The camber angle while cornering?
Has anyone gathered some experience with this so far? What are your references on the front knuckle to use? Would you lower or rise the Rollcenter and in which conditions?

I'm considering only to get some of the front knuckles instead of the whole axis. The front axis of my Asso 5.2 is still in a really good condition. It works fine, nothing worn out so far.

The hard plastic parts also seem to be an interesting option, but I'm not sure if it will make a difference to the standard parts at all. What's your opinion?

The coated titanium pins also look nice, but I don't think they might be a big improvement. I polished the lower part of the standard kingpins when I first assemble the car. Then snapped the balls in with a pivot ball tool and I usually run some lube on the kingpins.

So far I'm pleased with the Asso Front-End. I think it's really well made. No comparison to the rubbish I suffered with on my Corally 10SL, where I reworked every edge.

Cheers for all advices,
Mirko
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:17 PM   #40191
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Hello All,
Been looking through your threads gleaning information and thought I would introduce myself. Friend took me to the track a few weeks ago and got me into some Short Course Truck races. The more I raced the more I was drawn toward those little perfectly tuned pan cars. The fines of tuning appealed to me more than smashing my investment around.
So anyway, just dropped some coin on a Serpent S120LE this weekend with several of the mentioned necessities(stiffer/softer shock spring, tires, spacers, tires, bearings and tires) I was a little lost when it came to servo, ESC, Motor, ext. For now I went to hobby king and winged it with some cheap hardware to see how it plays out. I can refine my choices later.
If anyone would be willing to take a look at some of these components and give me a definite (will/will not work) I would greatly appreciate it.
LiPo Zippy Flightmax 5800mah 1S2P 60C Hardcase battery
Turnigy TrackStar Waterproof Brushless Power System 4000kv/80A 16T motor/esc
TGY-211DMH Metal Gear Coreless Digital Servo w/ Heat Sink 2.3kg/.10sec/16g

All this was purchased through hobby king.

Thanks guys, hope to see you on the track
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:39 PM   #40192
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Lots of good information over here too: 12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal

As for your equipment...the battery should be fine to start with. It won't perform as good as the high end packs but that won't matter when you are still learning. That ESC will probably need a booster or a receiver pack to run the receiver and servo. The few that have tried Turnigy ESCs at our track have found them to be lacking. For a low cost ESC that is pretty reliable a lot of people go with the Hobbywing.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-xerun-...-1s-black.html
Can't really say much about the servo...haven't heard much about them.
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Old 11-25-2013, 01:56 PM   #40193
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Hey everyone... just a quick question. I'm running an XRay X12 '14 and am looking at getting myself a good supply of the 1/8" diff balls. What do you guys recommend in terms of material? Steel or Ceramic? If steel, the G10 or Carbon steel? What about the Ceramic Zirconia Oxide balls (white ones)?

Thanks!
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Old 11-25-2013, 02:35 PM   #40194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobCat06 View Post
If anyone would be willing to take a look at some of these components and give me a definite (will/will not work) I would greatly appreciate it...
TGY-211DMH Metal Gear Coreless Digital Servo w/ Heat Sink 2.3kg/.10sec/16g
I ended up with a TGY-211DMH in a package deal. I would never have thought of buying one, but since I had it, and there was an empty space on the chassis... I gave it a try. It works very well!
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:59 PM   #40195
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Quote:
Turnigy TrackStar Waterproof Brushless Power System 4000kv/80A 16T motor/esc
This will not work without a booster, this ESC is for 2 cell or 3 cell, they are also not very reliable as i have seen a few guys with there at the track in TC and they blow up rather easy. Also, the motor is poor, it is a 360 rotor in a 540 can.

The speedy you want from hobbyking is this one:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_Car_ESC.html

The motor this one in a turn to suit your class:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...or_3730KV.html

I run the these in my 10.5T Eurostock 12th scale to good effect. The esc is not the smoothest in the bottom compared to others, but, i have not found that to be an issue as I never am off throttle by more than 40% anyways so am never using the low end of the throttle other than for starts.
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Old 11-25-2013, 04:59 PM   #40196
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Double Post.
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Old 11-26-2013, 01:28 AM   #40197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirko View Post
Hi,

I'm curious if someone has tried the new Xenon VSS Front-End so far.

I think it gives you the opportunity the adjust the Rollcenter high independently from the camber angle. But the Rollcenter can also be adjusted with shims on the kingpin between the front knuckle and upper eyelet. Furthermore if you have a reactive caster block that allow different heights of the hinge pin. (Serpent, Hyperdrive, KSG, McPappy)

What else does it change? Maybe the feeling of the steering? The camber angle while cornering?
Has anyone gathered some experience with this so far? What are your references on the front knuckle to use? Would you lower or rise the Rollcenter and in which conditions?

I'm considering only to get some of the front knuckles instead of the whole axis. The front axis of my Asso 5.2 is still in a really good condition. It works fine, nothing worn out so far.

The hard plastic parts also seem to be an interesting option, but I'm not sure if it will make a difference to the standard parts at all. What's your opinion?

The coated titanium pins also look nice, but I don't think they might be a big improvement. I polished the lower part of the standard kingpins when I first assemble the car. Then snapped the balls in with a pivot ball tool and I usually run some lube on the kingpins.

So far I'm pleased with the Asso Front-End. I think it's really well made. No comparison to the rubbish I suffered with on my Corally 10SL, where I reworked every edge.

Cheers for all advices,
Mirko
Have a look here;

http://www.thercracer.com/2013/10/ta...art-4.html?m=1
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Old 11-26-2013, 06:34 AM   #40198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobCat06 View Post
Hello All,
Been looking through your threads gleaning information and thought I would introduce myself. Friend took me to the track a few weeks ago and got me into some Short Course Truck races. The more I raced the more I was drawn toward those little perfectly tuned pan cars. The fines of tuning appealed to me more than smashing my investment around.
So anyway, just dropped some coin on a Serpent S120LE this weekend with several of the mentioned necessities(stiffer/softer shock spring, tires, spacers, tires, bearings and tires) I was a little lost when it came to servo, ESC, Motor, ext. For now I went to hobby king and winged it with some cheap hardware to see how it plays out. I can refine my choices later.
If anyone would be willing to take a look at some of these components and give me a definite (will/will not work) I would greatly appreciate it.
LiPo Zippy Flightmax 5800mah 1S2P 60C Hardcase battery
Turnigy TrackStar Waterproof Brushless Power System 4000kv/80A 16T motor/esc
TGY-211DMH Metal Gear Coreless Digital Servo w/ Heat Sink 2.3kg/.10sec/16g

All this was purchased through hobby king.

Thanks guys, hope to see you on the track
With the servo. I run it in my 1/12th and have zero issues with it. some of the cases had a bit of slop in the output shaft but can be fixed with a little bit of CA.

Nice and fast. I run the Xerun shown above a couple post up and it's awesome. The Justock is a great ESC and is able to run on 1s power. (the booster would be for your Receiver and not your esc) Depending on your radio of choice will dictate if you need a booster. I run Futaba 3pm and have zero issues on large or small tracks running without a booster. But I run 17.5 Blinky so there is not that much demand on the battery.

That being said that servo runs great on 3.7v

Cheers
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:35 AM   #40199
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Thanks for help guys! I will be adjusting equipment choices slightly and be on the track before to long I hope.
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Old 11-26-2013, 08:55 PM   #40200
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Noobie question,

On average, how many sets of tires do you guys carry with you to the track and how often do you have to buy a new set?
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