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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-13-2013, 10:12 PM   #40141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odpurple View Post
I've been using the Impact for a while now and think its a great speed control. Easy to program (no computer hook-up required), and the small footprint is ideal for 1/12th scale. I currently have 3 Impacts in use and they all have been totally reliable (1/12th, WGT and F1) For that matter I've been using Novak speed controls for about 25 years and I've had very few issues
Do I need a booster for 1s applications, 1/12th, WGT. etc?
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Old 11-14-2013, 08:25 AM   #40142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU View Post
Do I need a booster for 1s applications, 1/12th, WGT. etc?
Yes.
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Old 11-14-2013, 08:51 AM   #40143
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All depends on what esc, Reciever and servos you are using.


I run hobbywing Just stock (No internal booster) without a 1s booster but I have a futaba receiver and transmitter and a turnigy Servo (I forget the model) but the specs are fast and good torque so when the voltage is lower there is no issues with speed.

Also running the newer 3 wire AMB transponder which has a lower voltage requirement
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Old 11-15-2013, 09:12 PM   #40144
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My Yokomo came with the ability to change the Ackerman angles having tested -0.5 and +1.5 decided +1.5 actually felt smoother

Can anyone shed light on why this is?
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:44 PM   #40145
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I may be completely wrong about this, but in my experience when you adjust your ackerman so you have less, meaning the difference in steering angle between the inside and outside wheel is less, this can make the car feel more mellow, as it causes less variation between your low-speed turning circle center (near the back of the car) and your high-speed turning circle which is toward the center or even front of the car due to the higher weight transfer of turning at high speed and allowing the 'slip angle' into account as the back end slides.

That being said, I don't know what denotes + and - in the opinion of Yokomo. I adjust ackerman with the angle of the front links. If it feels good and turns good laps, fantastic.
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:27 PM   #40146
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I may be completely wrong about this, but in my experience when you adjust your ackerman so you have less, meaning the difference in steering angle between the inside and outside wheel is less, this can make the car feel more mellow, as it causes less variation between your low-speed turning circle center (near the back of the car) and your high-speed turning circle which is toward the center or even front of the car due to the higher weight transfer of turning at high speed and allowing the 'slip angle' into account as the back end slides.

That being said, I don't know what denotes + and - in the opinion of Yokomo. I adjust ackerman with the angle of the front links. If it feels good and turns good laps, fantastic.
Sorry forgot to write bellcrank which are the different options available they are labelled +1.5 mm which is higher than kit bellcrank setting and -0.5 lower than kit .. hope that makes more sense
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Old 11-15-2013, 11:40 PM   #40147
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Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
Sorry forgot to write bellcrank which are the different options available they are labelled +1.5 mm which is higher than kit bellcrank setting and -0.5 lower than kit .. hope that makes more sense
...would that be changing ackerman or bump-steer?

I was always under the impression it was the angle of the arms front to rear that dictated ackerman and from top to bottom changed bump-steer
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Old 11-16-2013, 11:05 AM   #40148
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I wonder if he means spacing the ball studs forward instead of up.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:02 PM   #40149
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If you place spacers between the ball stud and the servo saver to change the front to rear angle of the steering links, you are changing the Ackerman, or the difference between how much the inner wheel turns versus how much the outer wheel turns. If you move the ball studs to a different hole on the saver, or put spacers under the ball stud on the steering block to change the vertical angle of the steering links, you are changing the bump steer response. Ackerman affects the car whenever it's turning, bump steer only when it hits a bump while turning. Zero bump steer is generally the goal, while Ackerman can be used to tune steering response for more or less steering.
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Old 11-16-2013, 12:12 PM   #40150
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Hello fellow races. I am looking at entering the 1/12 scale world, our local series we are running 13.5. Which car would be the best. i currently run a Serpent TE and a 2.0 Eryx. I was considering the S120. which other would be a good choice and why??
Any help would be great.

Nick K
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Old 11-16-2013, 06:09 PM   #40151
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Is anyone aware of anything new coming from team associated in the 1/12 arena. I'm thinking of getting in 1/12 again and wondering if they are about to release a new car?

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Old 11-16-2013, 07:01 PM   #40152
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Hey guys,

Where can I find the different characteristics of each body available on the market?

Thanks Kevin
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Old 11-16-2013, 09:05 PM   #40153
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Originally Posted by Phoenix82 View Post
Hello fellow races. I am looking at entering the 1/12 scale world, our local series we are running 13.5. Which car would be the best. i currently run a Serpent TE and a 2.0 Eryx. I was considering the S120. which other would be a good choice and why??
Any help would be great.

Nick K
If you are already happy with serpent, I'd go that way but that's just me. I like symmetry in my pit. (or maybe the on-point car based on a serpent )
Just about any of the latest (ex: crc, associated, serpent, xray) lipo ready cars can get the job done! Most compare ease of parts availability, price, what other locals are running, rug/asphalt (or both). Other mfg's make/made good cars also. (ex: Tamiya, corally, yokomo, speed merchant, top, cefx, etc.)

Biggest thing will be the details in the build! Check out Mark Paynes blog for that. Filled with great info. Also check out RedBullFixx's signature (here: 12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal) for a ton of great, useful information!! go to the first or last page in that thread.

Have fun and chime in with your questions. Many great guys in this thread that will be glad to help you out.
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Old 11-17-2013, 09:07 PM   #40154
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Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
If you are already happy with serpent, I'd go that way but that's just me. I like symmetry in my pit. (or maybe the on-point car based on a serpent )
Just about any of the latest (ex: crc, associated, serpent, xray) lipo ready cars can get the job done! Most compare ease of parts availability, price, what other locals are running, rug/asphalt (or both). Other mfg's make/made good cars also. (ex: Tamiya, corally, yokomo, speed merchant, top, cefx, etc.)

Biggest thing will be the details in the build! Check out Mark Paynes blog for that. Filled with great info. Also check out RedBullFixx's signature (here: 12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal) for a ton of great, useful information!! go to the first or last page in that thread.

Have fun and chime in with your questions. Many great guys in this thread that will be glad to help you out.

Thanks for the honesty. I really like the Serpent product, and I think that the way ill go.. Since I'm asking questions. What about for a servo (fan of Futaba) and basic tools needed. Set up station, gauges ect? I have the normal tools for TC, tweat bar, set up station, gauges ect.

Nick K
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Old 11-18-2013, 06:27 AM   #40155
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As far as I know:

Ackermann
: Looking as a driver in the car. Putting the steering rods more forward and therefore less shims at your servo saver, and give it a negative ackermann value gives more initial steering, but looses a bit on mid corner and corner exit. It helps to settle the car down.
Reduce the shims and give it a positive ackermann value gives more ration, but less initial. It will make the car feel agressive "inside" the corner.

Bumpsteer on the other hand is the amount of shims on the steering hubs (when you keep the servo saver mounting point the same) Making it more a roof shape "^" so less shims on the steering blocks will give it more steering when compressing the suspension. So when hitting a dot, or a bubble in the carpet the car suddenly gets more steering. The car will feel twitchy but this can give you more steering if you want
When angled more like a bowl "V" shape. So a lot shims on the steering block will give a smoother feeling. It will not change the amount of steering that much cause it is following the angle of the upperarm.

So: Looking at ackermann I Personnaly try to run the rods as straight as I can. Then, when running modified I put a 0.2 shimm behind my servo saver, so it gets a little bit negative camber. Running blinky stock I don't put that shim there.

When looking at bumpsteer I try to follow the upperarm angle as much as I can. This will make the car more smooth. But not forget, all is up to a point.

Regards Robert
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