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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-11-2013, 08:21 PM   #40126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Guys!
I am at the mercy of many good people around me. We have a crew in the NW that gel ideas, talent, and race results into real workable data. I've been sitting on a spring chart for a week that I feel is really interesting material that I was dying to leak out. Data that manufacturers may lead us to believe is a linear progression when in fact it's just calculated guesses. Here's what I found. We are not working with springs that make even jumps in progression. We are working with what we have available. I have to thank my web guy Wes for taking time out of his busy week to put this data together and post it up online for us to see.

My measurement concept is simple: we do not use more then 80% of the throw of a spring. So, simply take that measurement in grams at 80% compressed of total length. I have also included in this chart, the coil wraps and measurement of wire thickness. The wire thickness includes whatever coating or paint that came from the manufacturer and I did not strip these springs to the wire. Some of the thicknesses do not make sense in some stat's. These stats are simply here for you to compare what you may have to what I recorded.

I the near future, I hope to include: Serpent, VBC and Xray as they become available to me for testing.

Of course this chart can be found on: www.slapmastertools.com

Enjoy!

Brian
Thank you for the chart. I was wondering if it could be updated with part numbers. Thanks again for the great work and info.
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Old 11-11-2013, 10:26 PM   #40127
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Part #'s are the same for CRC, so that is going to be confusing. I'll see. If I can gather that easily, I'll add it.

I have a big race at Timezone2 this weekend. I hope to have access to several makes of springs I can add. If you are not doing anything, come on by. Take a few laps. Or check out the action on LiveRC!
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:57 AM   #40128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Guys!
I am at the mercy of many good people around me. We have a crew in the NW that gel ideas, talent, and race results into real workable data. I've been sitting on a spring chart for a week that I feel is really interesting material that I was dying to leak out. Data that manufacturers may lead us to believe is a linear progression when in fact it's just calculated guesses. Here's what I found. We are not working with springs that make even jumps in progression. We are working with what we have available. I have to thank my web guy Wes for taking time out of his busy week to put this data together and post it up online for us to see.

My measurement concept is simple: we do not use more then 80% of the throw of a spring. So, simply take that measurement in grams at 80% compressed of total length. I have also included in this chart, the coil wraps and measurement of wire thickness. The wire thickness includes whatever coating or paint that came from the manufacturer and I did not strip these springs to the wire. Some of the thicknesses do not make sense in some stat's. These stats are simply here for you to compare what you may have to what I recorded.

I the near future, I hope to include: Serpent, VBC and Xray as they become available to me for testing.

Of course this chart can be found on: www.slapmastertools.com

Enjoy!

Brian
Hey Brian,

Do you have a spreadsheet that you can share? I want to add a column for spring rate for my own use, and I'm too lazy to copy all the numbers over.
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:15 AM   #40129
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How does crc chrome fronts relate to their black fronts? Softer, Harder, more or less grip, etc
Thanks
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:28 AM   #40130
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How does crc chrome fronts relate to their black fronts? Softer, Harder, more or less grip, etc
Thanks
idbdoug
Chrome is 70/30 Grey/Silver. I'm not sure how it compares in durometer...however I believe grey is softer than black. Generally, I've used chromes on high grip. I think they provide about the same or just slightly more steering than black but are a little smoother/easier to drive.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:18 AM   #40131
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You almost have to try both black and chrome on varying tracks. Blacks can be grabby in high grip and perfect in medium grip if there is fuzz. Chrome may not steer enough in med grip at some temps but be perfect in a warm building. Forget shore comparing these two. Just go for feel and laps. I want to say that chrome is a little smoother at entry and has more mid and exit steering then black. Whereas black "can" grab a bit more at entry and have less mid/exit steering. What for fuzz pick up on the undoped part of the tire. This will cause more fade. The cure is to run more dope and therefore pick up less junk. I personally run a lot of chr/yel in spec.
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:56 AM   #40132
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Chrome/Greylo (or yellow) is something I am going to be trying as the grig on our track is getting higher as we have more racers out for every meeting.

I am currently running Doublepink/pink and it's a great combo for our track but it's sensitive to temp changes
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Old 11-12-2013, 04:33 PM   #40133
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Since I didn't get a response to my last post, I'll post it again.

Has anyone tried Novak's "Impact" ESC? It looks great for 1/12 stock racing (i.e no lower than 7.5 turns).

What are your thoughts on it?

Here's a link to the product http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/impact/
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:17 PM   #40134
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That ESC will function fine, but will need a booster or receiver pack.
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:20 PM   #40135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S.Stew View Post
Chrome is 70/30 Grey/Silver. I'm not sure how it compares in durometer...however I believe grey is softer than black. Generally, I've used chromes on high grip. I think they provide about the same or just slightly more steering than black but are a little smoother/easier to drive.
Thanks
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:28 PM   #40136
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Cheers. I'll be running 2 cell lipo with a 21.5. Do you think I'll still need a booster cap?
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Old 11-12-2013, 05:50 PM   #40137
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From my experience with other Novak products, they fail very quickly. Out of 3 esc's I have owned, all 3 failed within 2 months. 2 GTB2's and 1 Edge. They replaced with no problem though so their customer service is great.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:19 PM   #40138
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Cheers. I'll be running 2 cell lipo with a 21.5. Do you think I'll still need a booster cap?
If you're running 2s, just run it as it recommends. If it requires a power capacitor as most if not all brushless ESC's need, then run it.

My experience has been contrary to Promodvette, my Novak stuff has held up very well in all forms of racing except for a cracked case, which is mostly my fault. My Havoc Pro still works, and my GTB2 runs 4.5 turn modified in touring car without a hitch... maybe it's just new Novak ESC's.

Has anybody else ever noticed that old electronics just keep on working? Maybe that's how they get old.
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:33 PM   #40139
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Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
From my experience with other Novak products, they fail very quickly. Out of 3 esc's I have owned, all 3 failed within 2 months. 2 GTB2's and 1 Edge. They replaced with no problem though so their customer service is great.
You couldn't pay me to put use a Novak product. You nailed it there though. I have always said that everyone knows Novak has great customer service because everyone has had to use it. There are plenty of other options that won't fail over and over again.
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Old 11-13-2013, 12:58 AM   #40140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Since I didn't get a response to my last post, I'll post it again.

Has anyone tried Novak's "Impact" ESC? It looks great for 1/12 stock racing (i.e no lower than 7.5 turns).

What are your thoughts on it?

Here's a link to the product http://www.teamnovak.com/products/esc/impact/
I've been using the Impact for a while now and think its a great speed control. Easy to program (no computer hook-up required), and the small footprint is ideal for 1/12th scale. I currently have 3 Impacts in use and they all have been totally reliable (1/12th, WGT and F1) For that matter I've been using Novak speed controls for about 25 years and I've had very few issues
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