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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 11-06-2013, 07:29 PM   #40096
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
A35 and A30 are the names that Pro One originally used for the Blue and Green rears, respectively. So a BSR Blue is the same as an A35, Green is the A30. Not sure whether Jaco Green/Blues are the same (but I would feel pretty safe saying that they are.)

The A35/Blue is an excellent rear tire for mod, but I like the A30 for 13.5 because it has similar forward-bite to the A35 but has less side bite, so the car rotates a bit better.
sorry if I misread this, but the softer tire has less side bite (A30 is looser than the A35?)

Is this still so with itty-bitty tire sizes?
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:17 PM   #40097
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sorry if I misread this, but the softer tire has less side bite (A30 is looser than the A35?)

Is this still so with itty-bitty tire sizes?
Not sure what your definition of itty-bitty is, but I know that at 40.5 to 41mm the car rotates better with A30 than with A35. It sounds backwards at first, but when I drove them back-to-back here at 5280 the A30 definitely seems to let the car rotate more.

I was originally using A35/TP on my 13.5 car and it was just too pushy for my taste. Rather than going to a more aggressive front, I tried the A30 in the rear and it worked like a charm. Something to try, I suppose.
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Old 11-07-2013, 07:48 AM   #40098
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:03 AM   #40099
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Ok...next question.

For those that had tippy problems at iic, what changes did you make to correct it?

DR had to switch to Blk/Yellow... curious what others did.

Thanks in advance.
-Jon
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:18 AM   #40100
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Go to the previous page. Somebody else had traction roll problems and a bunch of us posted in response.
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Old 11-07-2013, 11:22 PM   #40101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
A35 and A30 are the names that Pro One originally used for the Blue and Green rears, respectively. So a BSR Blue is the same as an A35, Green is the A30. Not sure whether Jaco Green/Blues are the same (but I would feel pretty safe saying that they are.)

The A35/Blue is an excellent rear tire for mod, but I like the A30 for 13.5 because it has similar forward-bite to the A35 but has less side bite, so the car rotates a bit better.
Correct. A35's will typically tighten the car up while A30's will have less side bite. I called them A30 and A35's because this is what we initially called them, then the other mfg.ís wanted to change to Blue (A35) and Green (A30), so to keep it simple and align with the others I switched to this naming also. Wait until we get close to The Worlds next October, it's going to get real confusing (Red & Orange) 
The Blue and Green foam comes from a different factory than where we get all the other foam.

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Old 11-07-2013, 11:26 PM   #40102
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Originally Posted by burgboyz View Post
Ok...next question.

For those that had tippy problems at iic, what changes did you make to correct it?

DR had to switch to Blk/Yellow... curious what others did.

Thanks in advance.
-Jon
In 1/12 mode we had to go to real low castor (2-3 degrees) and cut tires really small. Rears 1.61 and fronts 1.55. I ran camber settings anywhere from .25 degrees to 1 degree, but cutting tires small helped the most.
I donít use D/R as a tuning option, I usually leave it at 4-4/12 foot circles.
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Old 11-08-2013, 04:48 AM   #40103
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At the iic, I felt like the sauce time and running the smallest tire possible helped me the most. I really liked the Graylow/chrome combo. I cut the tires small enough to where there was no way I could get an additional run on them. For me that was 39.9mm fronts and 40.5 rears and making sure the sauce sat no longer than a few minutes on the tires. I used the same tire combo and same saucing program at the birds and it worked out well on that grip as well.
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Old 11-08-2013, 05:46 AM   #40104
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Hello
Can anyone tell me how to build the LTX Diff with thrust bearing,so if it fits?
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Old 11-08-2013, 06:08 AM   #40105
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Thanks WIITA Cant wait for the WOW race this spring. Might come down to the new Years rumble as well
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Old 11-08-2013, 10:08 AM   #40106
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Hello
Can anyone tell me how to build the LTX Diff with thrust bearing,so if it fits?
Look at these set-up tips for the S120. It also covers the diff thrust bearing.

http://www.markpayneblog.blogspot.com/

Right now I am using the IRS thrust cone which eliminates the thrust bearing. However I did purchase the Slapmaster and will be trying it this weekend.
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Old 11-09-2013, 12:39 AM   #40107
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Thx
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:04 PM   #40108
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Guys!
I am at the mercy of many good people around me. We have a crew in the NW that gel ideas, talent, and race results into real workable data. I've been sitting on a spring chart for a week that I feel is really interesting material that I was dying to leak out. Data that manufacturers may lead us to believe is a linear progression when in fact it's just calculated guesses. Here's what I found. We are not working with springs that make even jumps in progression. We are working with what we have available. I have to thank my web guy Wes for taking time out of his busy week to put this data together and post it up online for us to see.

My measurement concept is simple: we do not use more then 80% of the throw of a spring. So, simply take that measurement in grams at 80% compressed of total length. I have also included in this chart, the coil wraps and measurement of wire thickness. The wire thickness includes whatever coating or paint that came from the manufacturer and I did not strip these springs to the wire. Some of the thicknesses do not make sense in some stat's. These stats are simply here for you to compare what you may have to what I recorded.

I the near future, I hope to include: Serpent, VBC and Xray as they become available to me for testing.

Of course this chart can be found on: www.slapmastertools.com

Enjoy!

Brian
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:21 PM   #40109
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You are fantastic Brian. I hope this type of help spurs others on to do the same with their talents as they apply to 12th scale racing. Truly a benevolent gesture. Thank you.

In the first 30 seconds of looking over the data I must have said "OOOoooohhhhh" about 4 times. I've been running the new CRC springs for about a week, and have been trying to wrap my head around what fell where.

AWD

PS, I'll be calling sometime soon to talk thrusts and make an order and too see if you'd like me to send you my NIP set of Xray center springs to measure. Maybe I can convince you to test both versions of the AE blue spring too. Now we just need to find a way to do something similar for front springs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Guys!
I am at the mercy of many good people around me. We have a crew in the NW that gel ideas, talent, and race results into real workable data. I've been sitting on a spring chart for a week that I feel is really interesting material that I was dying to leak out. Data that manufacturers may lead us to believe is a linear progression when in fact it's just calculated guesses. Here's what I found. We are not working with springs that make even jumps in progression. We are working with what we have available. I have to thank my web guy Wes for taking time out of his busy week to put this data together and post it up online for us to see.

My measurement concept is simple: we do not use more then 80% of the throw of a spring. So, simply take that measurement in grams at 80% compressed of total length. I have also included in this chart, the coil wraps and measurement of wire thickness. The wire thickness includes whatever coating or paint that came from the manufacturer and I did not strip these springs to the wire. Some of the thicknesses do not make sense in some stat's. These stats are simply here for you to compare what you may have to what I recorded.

I the near future, I hope to include: Serpent, VBC and Xray as they become available to me for testing.

Of course this chart can be found on: www.slapmastertools.com

Enjoy!

Brian
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Last edited by andrewdoherty; 11-09-2013 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 11-09-2013, 10:55 PM   #40110
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Joke of the day: Did you test any of the Tamiya side springs by any chance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slapmaster6000 View Post
Guys!
I am at the mercy of many good people around me. We have a crew in the NW that gel ideas, talent, and race results into real workable data. I've been sitting on a spring chart for a week that I feel is really interesting material that I was dying to leak out. Data that manufacturers may lead us to believe is a linear progression when in fact it's just calculated guesses. Here's what I found. We are not working with springs that make even jumps in progression. We are working with what we have available. I have to thank my web guy Wes for taking time out of his busy week to put this data together and post it up online for us to see.

My measurement concept is simple: we do not use more then 80% of the throw of a spring. So, simply take that measurement in grams at 80% compressed of total length. I have also included in this chart, the coil wraps and measurement of wire thickness. The wire thickness includes whatever coating or paint that came from the manufacturer and I did not strip these springs to the wire. Some of the thicknesses do not make sense in some stat's. These stats are simply here for you to compare what you may have to what I recorded.

I the near future, I hope to include: Serpent, VBC and Xray as they become available to me for testing.

Of course this chart can be found on: www.slapmastertools.com

Enjoy!

Brian
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