R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-17-2003, 01:16 PM   #3991
Tech Elite
 
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876
Default

sometime slower is faster.
__________________
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 01:18 PM   #3992
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
Orion 11X2 touring motor in my 12th. put Orion Sprint brushes on it along with 7oz sliver springs.
Fast-

Did you change the timming from the stock setting or did you leave as it came.

I was thinking of getting a Orion for my 1/12th and put my current KR 11x2 in my TC. I have a 9x2 in it now and I think (know) that it's too much for me.

Anyway, are you racing tonight? If so see you at CH.

E
__________________
<
AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 01:26 PM   #3993
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 781
Default

one hash mark advanced.

the springs came from that black tray of springs you guys keep in the center counters.

this past Sat, Kelly did 45 and I turned my first 44 in the main

will not make it tonight.

later

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 09-17-2003 at 01:35 PM.
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 01:37 PM   #3994
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

In most "club" settings a guy running a 9x2 will usually get spanked by a guy running a 13x3. Why? Because it's way easier to drive a 13x3 with a big roll-out for 8 mins. Than it is to try and reign in a 9x2, drive it smooth and save battery for the whole race.
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....

Last edited by CypressMidWest; 09-17-2003 at 02:24 PM.
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 01:40 PM   #3995
Tech Elite
 
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876
Default

cypress yes even with a 19t motor you can lay down the smack because the car is easier to drive and you can mainain consistant lap times, with the new adjustable 19t's there will be and abundance of power probably more than you need.
__________________
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 01:52 PM   #3996
Tech Fanatic
 
fast-ho-cars's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: it's a dry heat
Posts: 781
Default

i agree....

after having not raced 12th since 1989. i started with a stk motor for 3 weeks no matter the what. then went to a 19 spec for 3 weeks, then a 14x3 for a few weeks then a 11x1 or a 11x3.

at times i would finish 2nd thru 4th just by finishing the 8 minutes.

New guys getting into it now, whether i know them or not.....i stress the fact "8 minutes"

a couple of weeks ago a older guy (never driven 12th) bought a used car from me and with a stk motor qualified 3rd in a field of 9

i once gave (yes gave) my D3.5 11X3 to a 13year old kid (known as the one and only "Sheriff") at our track after one heat he gave it back and said it was too slow for 12th. i put the motor in my car to prove to him it wasn't and did....i won that day

at our track we have a guy (Ben) who comes from Phoenix area who runs a 9X2, makes time, and won near all our 1/12th races when Competition Hobbies first opened in Tucson. there are 2 others in his caliber or better also.

the best drivers wanted to do a 19t spec 12th....surprizingly it was the worst drivers who were against it and are mostly no longer racing

Last edited by fast-ho-cars; 09-17-2003 at 01:57 PM.
fast-ho-cars is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 01:58 PM   #3997
Tech Elite
 
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876
Default

fast guys will always be fast no matter what the slow guys are the one that always bitch and moan . those people dont understand that those fast guys learend driving slow and work their way up.
you need to crawl before you run!
__________________
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 02:15 PM   #3998
Tech Master
 
EricF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: AZ
Posts: 1,515
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fast-ho-cars
one hash mark advanced.

the springs came from that black tray of springs you guys keep in the center counters. later

Thanks

I also agree... I was one of the guys that wanted to do a 19t mod class and was out voted. I think that maybe I'll talk to BC and see if we can get something like that going. Have a 19t and a open mod class.

Although some of the recent posts that I've read about the 19t motors scares me somewhat... magnets that don't last is the main one, I don't have and dont't want to own a magnet zapper.

Speedxl... didn't you say that you run a lot of 19t? What's your opnion...

E
__________________
<
AE 12R5.2 (x2) - TC7 - M05 - M05V2R

People who don't have to wait for the latest item, should not tell those that do, that "It's worth the wait"

Last edited by EricF; 09-17-2003 at 02:23 PM.
EricF is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 02:25 PM   #3999
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

14x3, big roll out , drive it strapped!
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2003, 02:35 PM   #4000
Tech Elite
 
speedxl's Avatar
R/C Tech Charter Subscriber
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland Oregon.
Posts: 3,876
Default

fike the guy that posted that the magnetes needed constant zapping is an oval racer here in florida that if you meet him you would realized he exagurates things cool guy but out there .
we've been running the 19t c2 motors in our state series here for the last 3 or 4 years down here even at our club level
the guys that race at our club actaully run mod at nationals and the state level run 19t to save money and because its fast enough, we have never i repeat never had any problems withthese motors. i dont make money off of them so it doesnt pay for me to brag about them. these motors take a good beating the oval guys just put their equipment thru hell at full noodle 90% of the time in road racing the equipment lives longer! the new adjustable that are out there now seem to live a good life in oval so to me that means that when we run them in road racing they will be that much better. so without blinking about it get youself a motor and run it! you wont be dissapointed , granted this is my view point !
__________________
Pemberton / R1 / All out motorsports / Team Power Push
speedxl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2003, 02:19 AM   #4001
Tech Champion
 
ROBORAT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: JP Raceway
Posts: 5,360
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to ROBORAT
Default

guys, dont count out the Kr in 12th scale 4-cell. i ran this motor last weekend at our 12th scale race and it was wicked fast! i was runnning a 10x2 and i think i was the fastest at the track. someone was actually surprised that my car was that fast and that i was running a Kr. he said somthing like "you made the Kr work in 4 cell?" .... the motor is tricky to gear and tune but when you get the right combo, its will work and work very well.

first up is stiffer springs! these are a must. the stock springs are just too soft. i went with Trinity purples on both sides but slightly tweaked the neg softer. Purple pos and red neg should work as well. Run 767s rather than the stock 766s - it just gives better power. timing i set to 12 degs. i wouldnt go much higher than that with this motor in 4 cell (15 max but more for 6cell TC). then gear it two teeth lower than you would a Ti of the same wind. i made good time with that set up - easily 9 mins so no fear of dumping and this was considering i was punching it the whole 8 mins - no pacing at all coz i was running after the track record (i dont mean to brag but i was able to make a new track record ) so no problem with run time. one guy came up to me after one main coz he wanted to try out my ride... he still put in about 5-6 laps with what was left in my pack. it had awesome speed, and had hardly any fade in power at the tail end of the run.

im not saying this is the best motor to use, coz others are equally as capable, but it is fast!
__________________
[YOKOMO BD7][REEDY RACING][TEAM ORION]
[Sanwa][LRP][Protoform]

http://www.hobbyhaven.com.my/

Last edited by ROBORAT; 09-18-2003 at 02:29 AM.
ROBORAT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2003, 05:49 AM   #4002
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Posts: 864
Default

CMW - looking at this discussion about the Kr, I am surprised you didn't mention to this crew how my REV2 with the Kr 9x2 ran last Sunday.
davidl is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2003, 06:40 AM   #4003
Tech Elite
 
CypressMidWest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Central Ohio
Posts: 4,603
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by davidl
CMW - looking at this discussion about the Kr, I am surprised you didn't mention to this crew how my REV2 with the Kr 9x2 ran last Sunday.
You know David, I didn't even think about it! DL ran a Kr equipped REV.2 at Ultra last Sunday, and it made excellent RIP and didn't hurt for run-time at all.

Now David, post your spring/brush/timing set-up so these guys can try it!
__________________
Team CRC, Access Race Place, US Indoor Champs, CD SUPERPRO, RK Designs, Cypress, Founder and lead instructor of the Ian Ruggles Negative Reinforcement Driver Training Program, enroll now.....
CypressMidWest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2003, 08:02 AM   #4004
Tech Master
 
Mike D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,095
Send a message via Yahoo to Mike D
Default

davidl and/or CypressMidWest - I have a roll center question for you REV.2 guys. I don't run a REV.2 but I am curious how your setup changes effect your cars. Do you run the stock roll center currently? If not, what thickness of shims do you run under the pivot balls? How small of a shim thickness (roll center height) change can you notice on handling on the track. For example, is .005" or .030" a huge change? I really have no idea how sensative your chassis is to that change. Do you change the roll center for lower, "weekly racing traction" and higher, "big race traction." Also, how do you feel the roll center modifications change the handling in sweeping turns and 180's? How much do you change the rest of you setup (ie side springs, dampening, etc) to adjust to the roll center changes? I guess that turned out to be more then one question...
Mike D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2003, 10:17 AM   #4005
Tech Master
 
Bobby Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Niagara Falls, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,117
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

I just picked up my Rev 3 for this season and a pack of the LRC cones and noticed that the difference between the stock cones and the LRC cones is approximately 0.30"- 0.040".

I figure this because there are two washers on the each of the two screws that bolt the center pivot to the chassis. When installing the low roll center cones I was told to remove those washers on both screws to get the rear pod to sit flush with the chassis.

I figure I will try to the stock cones first and then try it with the low roll cones once I get the car handling for my driving style.

I have also been told that the LRC cones give the car more rear traction in the middle of the turn. I haven't tried yet as I'm still getting my car wired up and setup for it's maiden voyage.

If any of you racers with some expeience with the Rev 3 feel diffrently please correct me as I'm going on someone else's feedback.

Bob

P.S. Does anyone know of where to find a good countersink bit for 4-40 flat head screws. The Rev 3 requires that you drill the holes yourself for the servo mounts and I would like to do a good job on the countersinking.
Bobby Z is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (0 members and 3 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:14 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0