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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 10-30-2013, 03:49 AM   #40006
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Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I happened to look through my AE center springs to find a blue to put on my car and noticed something peculiar. Has anyone else found that there are two different blue springs from AE? At first I thought I might have mixed a CRC blue in with my AE's but they are would opposite each other so I knew it was an AE. I only have AE and CRC springs so I know its not something else. I noticed one spring has 7 3/4 of a coil and the other has 8 and 3/4 coils. I have suspected/heard in the past that CRC springs had changed from time to time, and I know that some company's include one spring in the kit as a particular color, but when you get a spare of the same color they are different, but I have never looked closely enough at the AE center springs over time to see if that is the case here. Can anyone verify or count and post what they have for an AE blue center spring? I looked here

http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...o-Shock/Detail

and the pic shows 8 3/4. Does anyone have any insight into this?
AWD
I have noticed this as well. I have heard there are multiple generations of springs out there. I have whites that are stiffer than reds and blues that when you push against a white, are stiffer as well. At avoid all of the confusion, I ordered the new spring set from CRC and gave all of my old ones away. This way I know for sure when I go up on spring, I'm actually going up. Lol. The new CRC springs seem to be dead nuts on form what I've tested. Hope this helps...
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:09 AM   #40007
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I have noticed this as well. I have heard there are multiple generations of springs out there. I have whites that are stiffer than reds and blues that when you push against a white, are stiffer as well. At avoid all of the confusion, I ordered the new spring set from CRC and gave all of my old ones away. This way I know for sure when I go up on spring, I'm actually going up. Lol. The new CRC springs seem to be dead nuts on form what I've tested. Hope this helps...
After the switch to lipo, and the massive reduction in weight, I'm pretty sure CRC "tweaked" the spring rates. They maintained the same color coding, but re-did the rates to better accommodate the reduced weight of LIPO powered vehicles. That's why the the old white is stiffer than the new red, etc.

Sometimes it's fun to run old springs to freak out other racers by making them think you're running way softer than they are, when in actuality you aren't
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:30 AM   #40008
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That's why the the old white is stiffer than the new red, etc.
Speaking of new springs.... Is there any info on where the new decimal side springs fall within the range? Checked the CRC press release but didn't see anything.

Thanks!

Mike Slaughter
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Old 10-30-2013, 12:42 PM   #40009
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I've been looking for equivalence data from old to new for both the side and center springs. If anyone knows please share. I'm kinda guessing right now and my first try ended up with more push than I had with blue side and center springs.
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Old 10-30-2013, 01:48 PM   #40010
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Speaking of new springs.... Is there any info on where the new decimal side springs fall within the range? Checked the CRC press release but didn't see anything.

Thanks!

Mike Slaughter
I believe a .045=blue, a .050=white, a .055=red, and a .060=green. I'll try to double check with the powers that be and report back.
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Old 10-30-2013, 02:46 PM   #40011
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Pan car fans,
I wanted to make another introduction of my new caster gauge. I debuted these at IIC. They went over so well, I had to give up my personal gauges before I went home! Racers really liked the idea. It's simple really, take your tire, e-clip and spring off. Slip the king pin into the hole in the barrel. Set your car on the set up board. Read the needle. Compare to the other side.

I find so far that if you are within a degree, it's close enough. But if you are 2 degrees different, you may want to make a correction. Try some thinner shims instead of those big meaty thick ones.

Ever get a car that's awesome one direction, hooks the other, but tweaks out flat? Camber is an obvious "look", but dig deeper, what about caster? This is a quick easy way to look at your front end without taking a bunch of items apart. This gauge reads what angle the king pin is sitting at.

There are two holes on the clear A Frame; low and high, for 12th scale and WGT/F-1. The gauge is available in 1/8 inch or 3mm based on what you own, and in single or in pairs. My latest batch just arrived. You can check with my suppliers or order direct.

Brian
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:07 PM   #40012
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I believe a .045=blue, a .050=white, a .055=red, and a .060=green. I'll try to double check with the powers that be and report back.
If you are talking about the new CRC side springs, you will find the new .60 is a tick softer then reds. I mean just a tick! And I will start a rumor that stiffer "new" are in the works. Some folks had the elusive old orange sides, you should find that the new .45's handy.

The only way I've found to compare center springs is with that Losi Shock Comparer Tool. I've put spring A on a shock on the left side, spring B on the right side, squish, if the needle gives up one way or the other or stays put, you've got your answer. This day and age of instant gratification, everyone wants a number or a rating. Well, I don't see anyone taking the time to acquire every spring on the market and give them a rating for our viewing pleasure. You have to take into consideration also that we are not fully collapsing that center spring. You are going to have roughly a usable stroke length. Going to coil bind is irrelevant. Anyway, this is just food for thought. I compare two springs at the track on my phillips screw driver. I have two Sharpie marks that are equal length, about 75% of the spring's length. Squish the two down to the first mark, see if the the middle mark is in the middle or not. The guys gave me all kinds of grief over this. They called it my Bodiner Meeter.
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Old 10-30-2013, 03:10 PM   #40013
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If you are talking about the new CRC side springs, you will find the new .60 is a tick softer then reds. I mean just a tick! And I will start a rumor that stiffer "new" are in the works. Some folks had the elusive old orange sides, you should find that the new .45's handy.

The only way I've found to compare center springs is with that Losi Shock Comparer Tool. I've put spring A on a shock on the left side, spring B on the right side, squish, if the needle gives up one way or the other or stays put, you've got your answer. This day and age of instant gratification, everyone wants a number or a rating. Well, I don't see anyone taking the time to acquire every spring on the market and give them a rating for our viewing pleasure. You have to take into consideration also that we are not fully collapsing that center spring. You are going to have roughly a usable stroke length. Going to coil bind is irrelevant. Anyway, this is just food for thought. I compare two springs at the track on my phillips screw driver. I have two Sharpie marks that are equal length, about 75% of the spring's length. Squish the two down to the first mark, see if the the middle mark is in the middle or not. The guys gave me all kinds of grief over this. They called it my Bodiner Meeter.
Thank you Mr. Bodine. I haven't run any of the new side springs yet, so that is definitely good to know.
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:16 PM   #40014
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Originally Posted by WIITA View Post
I have noticed this as well. I have heard there are multiple generations of springs out there. I have whites that are stiffer than reds and blues that when you push against a white, are stiffer as well. At avoid all of the confusion, I ordered the new spring set from CRC and gave all of my old ones away. This way I know for sure when I go up on spring, I'm actually going up. Lol. The new CRC springs seem to be dead nuts on form what I've tested. Hope this helps...
Thanks JW. I have all the new CRC springs for the same reasons. Up until last night I thought the AE springs had remained the same so I was keeping them, but now I guess I know better. One of these days you me and Lundberg need to make a race together.
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:21 PM   #40015
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We are definitely in need of some accurate and trustworthy spring information. I know Christian Tabush has access to AVID's spring tester. I may see about asking him to take me over to David's next time I go to Houston with as many springs as I can get my hands on.
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Old 10-31-2013, 12:22 AM   #40016
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Just a little more follow up on comparing new and old crc side springs. To the naked eye, the .55 is just a little stiffer then the white. The blue is just a little stiffer then the .50. The .45 is well..... softer. So on the Bodiner Meeter Scale of Naked Eyeball from stiff to soft it goes like this:

Red, .60, .55, white, blue, .50, .45

One thing I do notice is the new springs seem to have a softer initial "touch" then the painted. I guess the only thing you can make of that is: the car may have a more dead feel in the middle. Something that could get corrected with a half turn of preload maybe. Wont know till I try it.
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Old 10-31-2013, 01:07 AM   #40017
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Pan car fans,
I wanted to make another introduction of my new caster gauge. I debuted these at IIC. They went over so well, I had to give up my personal gauges before I went home! Racers really liked the idea. It's simple really, take your tire, e-clip and spring off. Slip the king pin into the hole in the barrel. Set your car on the set up board. Read the needle. Compare to the other side.

I find so far that if you are within a degree, it's close enough. But if you are 2 degrees different, you may want to make a correction. Try some thinner shims instead of those big meaty thick ones.

Ever get a car that's awesome one direction, hooks the other, but tweaks out flat? Camber is an obvious "look", but dig deeper, what about caster? This is a quick easy way to look at your front end without taking a bunch of items apart. This gauge reads what angle the king pin is sitting at.

There are two holes on the clear A Frame; low and high, for 12th scale and WGT/F-1. The gauge is available in 1/8 inch or 3mm based on what you own, and in single or in pairs. My latest batch just arrived. You can check with my suppliers or order direct.

Brian
You've just made the Dieter front end popular again!
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Old 10-31-2013, 03:20 AM   #40018
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Thanks JW. I have all the new CRC springs for the same reasons. Up until last night I thought the AE springs had remained the same so I was keeping them, but now I guess I know better. One of these days you me and Lundberg need to make a race together.
Snowbirds!!!
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Old 10-31-2013, 07:41 AM   #40019
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Snowbirds!!!
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Old 10-31-2013, 10:15 AM   #40020
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Just a little more follow up on comparing new and old crc side springs. To the naked eye, the .55 is just a little stiffer then the white. The blue is just a little stiffer then the .50. The .45 is well..... softer. So on the Bodiner Meeter Scale of Naked Eyeball from stiff to soft it goes like this:

Red, .60, .55, white, blue, .50, .45

One thing I do notice is the new springs seem to have a softer initial "touch" then the painted. I guess the only thing you can make of that is: the car may have a more dead feel in the middle. Something that could get corrected with a half turn of preload maybe. Wont know till I try it.
That would explain why my xti had more push with the new. 50 sides and white center than it did with the old blue springs all around.,
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