R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-18-2013, 05:45 AM   #39976
Tech Elite
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,280
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
The ears as you called them at the front double as positioners for the battery, meaning the pack doesn't slide around like it does in some other cars. (Also it's much easier to tape the battery in without the shock in the way, and the chassis is narrower than the pack which keeps it in tighter.)
These are nice features. Some real thought went into it!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
p.s. You know it's going to say "I like it!" -- Howard Cano (ROAR '93 IC8 National Champion) on the box now right?
That probably means I would need to buy one and run it. (Although with my "old geezer" reflexes and eyes, it won't be much advertising.) Will it be available as an upgrade, or a full kit only?
__________________
Howard Cano
When race results are re-calculated using the IOF (Index Of Fun), I always win.
1993 ROAR 1/8 Pan National Champion
howardcano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2013, 06:28 AM   #39977
Tech Champion
 
Radio Active's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 6,994
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
That probably means I would need to buy one and run it. (Although with my "old geezer" reflexes and eyes, it won't be much advertising.) Will it be available as an upgrade, or a full kit only?
I hadn't given any thought to an upgrade. At the moment we're still trying to finalise which dampers to use, who sells the cheapest body posts, and how not to blow the budget on tools when there is a mix of metric and imperial screws, stuff like that.

Likely the initial run will be small numbers intended for the Australian market, specifically the East coast where not having to pay for overseas shipping will make the price tag more appealing.

Our goal has never been to make money, rather provide a cheap but capable car that will bring more people into 12th scale, and maybe generate a bit of a reputation. The race meeting on the weekend has 33 12th scale entries total across 2 motor classes, and this is the most I can remember seeing at any Australian race. I've been racing since '95, so that gives you an idea of how desperate 12th scale is for a shot in the arm here.

Elsewhere in the country the situation is far worse. There is a good chance that the National Championships will fail to get the minimum numbers required to even run the class this year. This happened in 2011 in Perth. The NSW Champs just ran and couldn't declare a State Champion because they only had 5 drivers.

What's happened is that 12th scale has got a reputation for being an elite class. Everywhere else in the country it is run as Mod only, and only on billiard ball table smooth tracks with massive traction. We don't have enough tracks like that. And with no feeder class people are scared to drive the cars. I've made an effort to promote a spec motor class and run a tour this year in NSW and the ACT, and we're having some success. Building a car that makes the class more accessible was really just a natural extension of that goal.

Sorry for going on a bit. It will be a while longer before the car is in production. Both of us working on it have other jobs, and testing time is limited. Within the next 4-6 months is a realistic goal to see a kit.
__________________
Reigning NSW 4WD Group 20 Champion
Member: Maitland Radio Car Club (http://www.morcc.com.au)
twitter: @dvcotton
Australian 12th Scale hastag: #EP12AU
Radio Active is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-18-2013, 07:18 PM   #39978
Tech Master
 
ShadowAu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Somewhere you'd never heard of
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Just wanted to share a picture of the latest version of the prototype car my friend and I have been working on for the last year
I love the rear shock arrangement. I had an TRC pan car in the 90's with that arrangement and I always loved it.

Maybe I'll give up on my own scratch build and just buy one of these when the time comes
__________________
I have only one more RC thing on my bucket list and I will keep racing (and probably coming last) till its done...
ShadowAu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 08:22 AM   #39979
Tech Addict
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Mugen10 Send a message via Skype™ to Mugen10
Default

The 80's thread talk is back.
__________________
Central Kentucky Racing
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Xray T4
Mugen10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 10:00 AM   #39980
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,377
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

There weren't any threads in the 80's...
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 03:25 PM   #39981
Tech Regular
 
michael mercer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Herrin, Illinois
Posts: 459
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
There weren't any threads in the 80's...
We had really kool threads in the 80's. Kool hair too.
michael mercer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 03:46 PM   #39982
Tech Addict
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Mugen10 Send a message via Skype™ to Mugen10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
There weren't any threads in the 80's...
I stand corrected but if we did have thread talk it would be like the last few post on here. All about the TRC pan car and the up and coming prototype we are chatting about.

Good stuff.
__________________
Central Kentucky Racing
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Xray T4
Mugen10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-19-2013, 07:07 PM   #39983
Tech Master
 
ShadowAu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Somewhere you'd never heard of
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
I stand corrected but if we did have thread talk it would be like the last few post on here. All about the TRC pan car and the up and coming prototype we are chatting about.

Good stuff.
Gotta be somewhere us old farts can hang out
__________________
I have only one more RC thing on my bucket list and I will keep racing (and probably coming last) till its done...
ShadowAu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 05:30 AM   #39984
Tech Champion
 
Radio Active's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 6,994
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen10 View Post
I stand corrected but if we did have thread talk it would be like the last few post on here. All about the TRC pan car and the up and coming prototype we are chatting about.

Good stuff.
Prototype qualified 3rd and finished 2nd.

And especially for you old timers, here is the car as it would have appeared in a magazine in the 80s:

__________________
Reigning NSW 4WD Group 20 Champion
Member: Maitland Radio Car Club (http://www.morcc.com.au)
twitter: @dvcotton
Australian 12th Scale hastag: #EP12AU

Last edited by Radio Active; 10-20-2013 at 06:03 AM.
Radio Active is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 06:24 PM   #39985
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7
Default

I need some help i am trying to get back into 1/12 and have a CRC XL, it's been 2 years is it worth it to keep racing that car or should i go to a new one budget is a concern but all i am racing is local club races. I also was looking at the "old school front end" to simplify the setup i need to worry about for the car.
docsitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 06:55 PM   #39986
Tech Champion
 
Radio Active's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 6,994
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by docsitz View Post
I need some help i am trying to get back into 1/12 and have a CRC XL, it's been 2 years is it worth it to keep racing that car or should i go to a new one budget is a concern but all i am racing is local club races. I also was looking at the "old school front end" to simplify the setup i need to worry about for the car.
The CRC XL is still a very capable car. I tend to think any 12th scale with pivot ball suspension is not outdated. The XL is probably a better option than some of the latest cars in low grip conditions like tarmac. I think the weight distribution helps it there. An XL won Mod at the race I was at on the weekend.
__________________
Reigning NSW 4WD Group 20 Champion
Member: Maitland Radio Car Club (http://www.morcc.com.au)
twitter: @dvcotton
Australian 12th Scale hastag: #EP12AU
Radio Active is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 06:59 PM   #39987
Tech Champion
 
Radio Active's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Newcastle, Australia
Posts: 6,994
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by docsitz View Post
I need some help i am trying to get back into 1/12 and have a CRC XL, it's been 2 years is it worth it to keep racing that car or should i go to a new one budget is a concern but all i am racing is local club races. I also was looking at the "old school front end" to simplify the setup i need to worry about for the car.
The CRC XL is still a very capable car. I tend to think any 12th scale with pivot ball suspension is not outdated. The XL is probably a better option than some of the latest cars in low grip conditions like tarmac. I think the weight distribution helps it there. An XL won Mod at the race I was at on the weekend.

As far as the oldskool front end goes, it works great, but I'd probably be inclined to stick with the front end the car was designed for.
__________________
Reigning NSW 4WD Group 20 Champion
Member: Maitland Radio Car Club (http://www.morcc.com.au)
twitter: @dvcotton
Australian 12th Scale hastag: #EP12AU
Radio Active is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 07:04 PM   #39988
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7
Default

from what i am told the track i am going to is brand new carpet and high traction. if that makes a difference. i am going to try out 17.5 stock class thats what i tried last time with not so great results but i have more time to try to figure out the setup.
docsitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 07:08 PM   #39989
Tech Addict
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Mugen10 Send a message via Skype™ to Mugen10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by docsitz View Post
I need some help i am trying to get back into 1/12 and have a CRC XL, it's been 2 years is it worth it to keep racing that car or should i go to a new one budget is a concern but all i am racing is local club races. I also was looking at the "old school front end" to simplify the setup i need to worry about for the car.
I ran the CRC XL up to spring. I think the car is just fine. Just buy good batteries and a good motor with 12.5 rotor. The car can be fast I think.
__________________
Central Kentucky Racing
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Xray T4
Mugen10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-20-2013, 07:17 PM   #39990
Tech Rookie
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 7
Default

I have Reedy sonic motor for the car and a friend gave me a turnigy nano tech battery. Also a Novak Havoc 1S ESC if that makes a difference
docsitz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 2 (0 members and 2 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:37 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0