R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


Print Wikipost

Like Tree53Likes
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-11-2013, 03:33 PM   #39931
Tech Adept
cyclone's Avatar
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 235

Hmm these ones have a easier fit than the latest Crc ones though? Thanks
cyclone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2013, 02:05 AM   #39932
Tech Regular
oreo's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 269
Default .....ride height spacers....

Greetings cyclone....the ones pictured may possibly be from XRAY.I've been using early associated ones myself.
Rc 10L (x6)
(.......in 2010, I jus' may get to run one.)-Irrgang Racing Service;TeamCRP. R.I.P. Billy 105
oreo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2013, 10:11 AM   #39933
Tech Elite
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,087
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)

My xray parts have the number on the outside and turned 180 degrees.
PROMODVETTE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2013, 07:02 PM   #39934
Tech Elite
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,087
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)

What does the different in tire size equate to on track? I'm talking about front/rear difference. I see most people usually run 1, 1.5, or 2mm smaller front. Why?
PROMODVETTE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2013, 07:52 PM   #39935
Tech Apprentice
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Miami (Cutler Bay)
Posts: 51
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)

Hi Guys, sorry if im interrupting. I recently bought this associated rc12l from a kid at school. It has a tempest hyperfet 2 pro esc, looks like a 6 cell battery and a reedy mach 1 motor which doesnt work. I wanted to know if you guys think its worth fixing this car. I want to get a new motor for it and update the wheel hubs so I can run modern ones cuz finding those 2 hole wheels is pretty hard.

worker91 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-13-2013, 07:54 PM   #39936
Tech Master
ShadowAu's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Somewhere you'd never heard of
Posts: 1,504
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)

Has anyone used the A-Plus Speed 12B body?

It looks the same as the PF AMR-12... I've used their 1/10 sedan bodies and they are almost a complete copy of a PF body so was wondering if the 1/12 was the same...
I am quite content with doing what I do

Don't mistake not being happy for unhappiness - its not the same thing
ShadowAu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 02:19 PM   #39937
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 264

hi guys quick question

my yokomo r12c3 is pulling to the left/right under acceleration

but front wheel bearings are fine
cambre/toe could do with a little work but they are parallel and negative 1 degree of camber..last time i checked

what causes the pull under acceleration? if i can cure that then my car will well..be a lot easier to drive as its causing me to crash as i go on the power, suddenly torque steers into a barrier.
PurcyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 02:26 PM   #39938
Clegg's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)

Check Rear axel bearings, any imbalance in drag from one side to the other can cause the diff to push power more to one side than the other.
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 02:46 PM   #39939
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 264

yeah ive just noticed the spur side of the axle the wheel is weaving left n right as i spin it by hand..that definitely isnt going to help matters

will take the diff apart tomorrow i guess
PurcyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 02:48 PM   #39940
Tech Elite
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,087
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)

Are those carbon axles? Better go ahead and order another one, its probably bent.
PROMODVETTE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 02:54 PM   #39941
Tech Master
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,754
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)

Carbon axles don't bend, so if the axle is still in one piece and your wheel is wobbling, I would look to see whether you have bent a hub. Pretty common if the car takes a hard side-knock against the boards.
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 02:55 PM   #39942
Tech Champion
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,178

Also make sure the left side hub isn't on too tight against the bearing...you need about a paper thickness's worth of play in the axle or it may pull to one side due to the stress on the bearings.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 03:04 PM   #39943
Tech Regular
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 264

yokomo give you small gold ring shim spacers for that inspgadgt

i just took the diff apart, it looks to be the bearing in the spur gear thats causing the wobble, took it off stuck another bearing in, straight as an arrow.

all the rest is fine..so will need a new spur gear bearing
PurcyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 03:17 PM   #39944
Tech Elite
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,087
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)

Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Carbon axles don't bend, so if the axle is still in one piece and your wheel is wobbling, I would look to see whether you have bent a hub. Pretty common if the car takes a hard side-knock against the boards.
They do. Unfortunately I threw mine out, otherwise I would have taken a photo.
PROMODVETTE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2013, 04:05 PM   #39945
Tech Master
LonnyJ1950's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ. USA
Posts: 1,173

Yeah, I bent a Serpent axle and couldn't believe it. Happens when you get internal breakage of just a few of the fibers.
LonnyJ1950 is offline   Reply With Quote

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 04:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 01:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 07:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 08:26 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 3 (1 members and 2 guests)
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off

All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:46 PM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net