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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-27-2013, 07:21 AM   #39856
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Sounds about right, but I use lighter fluid instead of motor spray
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:26 AM   #39857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowAu View Post
What are the better bodies to use? and which ones are actually more than 170mm wide

I just tried to fit up a Blitz body to my scratch build and its not even close

I've double checked my car width and its 171mm
These are some of the more popular full width bodies
TR12 being the most aggressive, Mohawk the most slippery

Protoform
TR12


AMR12

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BlackArt
Mohawk
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Old 09-27-2013, 07:28 AM   #39858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
I'm a bit rusty on tires...
- Is there anything I should be doing between runs?
- Saucing technique? (we use SXT at the track I run)
Anyone?
I use odorless mineral spirits instead of motor spray to clean tires. It's much cheaper ($15 for a GALLON!), doesn't stink, and doesn't give me a headache. Use the regular petroleum-distillate-based stuff, not the "green" version.
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:43 PM   #39859
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Can i use my hobbywing 2s speed controller xerun 60a with my 1/12 with a 1s lipo??
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:32 PM   #39860
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No you need a receiver pack as well such as a muchmore liFe 6.6v, i dont buy into the whole booster thing, would rather have the extra voltage from a rx pack
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:29 PM   #39861
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Booster vs Rx is pretty much a religious argument at this point. Many people run boosters just fine (especially in stock classes), Rx packs are fine, but generally take up more space, and if you forget to charge it...

Mod guys tend to run Rx packs more because they can pretty much drain a top tier 1S pack in a 8 minute run... no reason to pull another 100mAh over a run from the main battery powering the servo and Rx.

I've run the $3.99 hobbyking 1S booster since 1S lipo's came around... I've had 2 fail in 5 years. Even in mod I didn't notice any issue toward the ends of runs. Smaller, lighter, and easy is pretty much the deal with the boosters.
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Old 09-28-2013, 04:37 PM   #39862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
I use odorless mineral spirits instead of motor spray to clean tires. It's much cheaper ($15 for a GALLON!), doesn't stink, and doesn't give me a headache. Use the regular petroleum-distillate-based stuff, not the "green" version.
Thanks everyone for the suggestions...
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:58 PM   #39863
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I dont run either. My Futaba reciver is good down to 3v and I never get past 3.8 with a 17.5T and just get a faster Servo so when the voltage drops you don't loose preformance. oh and you need the newer style amb which is also good down to 3v
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:02 AM   #39864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Booster vs Rx is pretty much a religious argument at this point. Many people run boosters just fine (especially in stock classes), Rx packs are fine, but generally take up more space, and if you forget to charge it...

Mod guys tend to run Rx packs more because they can pretty much drain a top tier 1S pack in a 8 minute run... no reason to pull another 100mAh over a run from the main battery powering the servo and Rx.

I've run the $3.99 hobbyking 1S booster since 1S lipo's came around... I've had 2 fail in 5 years. Even in mod I didn't notice any issue toward the ends of runs. Smaller, lighter, and easy is pretty much the deal with the boosters.
For me its down to what happened last time trying to attempt 12th, with a hobbywing 1s speedo obviously no boosters etc required..or so you thought anyway, on 13.5t the servo was horribly slow, glitchy, brown outs with spektrum Rx's ..was a nightmare, a lot of money for a lot of hassle, so now with a muchmore life 6.6v im having none of these issues and with a much cheaper speedo, would i have the same experience buying a booster? potentially but didnt want to take the risk.
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:31 AM   #39865
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WGT, Happywing 1s 13.5 for over a year
No booster,
Futaba gear
No issues

4x 12th 13.5
Tekin RS w/booster 4 years
Futaba gear
No issues

2x 12th 13.5
LRP Comp vii, no booster
Futaba gear
No issues
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:13 PM   #39866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PurcyP View Post
For me its down to what happened last time trying to attempt 12th, with a hobbywing 1s speedo obviously no boosters etc required..or so you thought anyway, on 13.5t the servo was horribly slow, glitchy, brown outs with spektrum Rx's ..was a nightmare, a lot of money for a lot of hassle, so now with a muchmore life 6.6v im having none of these issues and with a much cheaper speedo, would i have the same experience buying a booster? potentially but didnt want to take the risk.
In my experience some Spektrum receivers are notoriously bad for doing exactly as you described on anything less than perfect power supply, especially with certain brand servos or high demand servos - one of the reasons I've never felt compelled to switch to them from my Futaba gear
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Old 09-29-2013, 04:23 PM   #39867
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What are the pros and cons between running the Tekin RS Gen2 with a booster verse the Hobbywing 1S? I am looking for a new speed controller and like them both, wifey says only 1!! It is a wash in price after the booster is bought for the Tekin.

Thanks,

Kevin
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:12 PM   #39868
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The Tekin has a much smaller footprint than the Hobbywing. The Viper is the same footprint as the Tekin but has a booster built in. The Orca is only slightly bigger in footprint than the Viper and Tekin and also has a built in booster. But the Viper is an all metal case that can not be taken apart so it is heavy and if you need to replace out your servo lead wires you can't. I've ran all 3 (Tekin gen 1 though) and they are all good but I'd say right now the Orca has the edge due to it being lighter than the Viper.
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Old 09-29-2013, 06:38 PM   #39869
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The Orca VX1 is nice!!! Hmmmm may have swayed me from the Tekin. Thanks Gadgt
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Old 09-29-2013, 07:20 PM   #39870
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The VX1 is excellent. I went from a Tekin RS pro with booster to the VX1 and it was not even like it was the same car.
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