R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-25-2013, 02:12 PM   #39841
itr
Tech Adept
 
itr's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 156
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

how are you guys mounting lipos in the older t plate cars looking to get into 12th scale and can get a car pretty cheap but its a t plate car
itr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 02:19 PM   #39842
Regional Moderator
 
CarbonJoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,660
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by itr View Post
how are you guys mounting lipos in the older t plate cars looking to get into 12th scale and can get a car pretty cheap but its a t plate car
I just put the battery one one side of the t-bar (lengthwise down the long axis of the car), and the electronics on the other side. It works pretty well. Alternately, you can get some 1s saddle packs from Speedzone, where each half is about the size of two sub-C NiMH batteries.
__________________
*** The Gate - Celebrating 7 years at the same location ***
The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits. - Albert Einstein
Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car
CarbonJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 02:27 PM   #39843
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New Bern, N.C.
Posts: 1,178
Trader Rating: 3 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by itr View Post
how are you guys mounting lipos in the older t plate cars looking to get into 12th scale and can get a car pretty cheap but its a t plate car
Sadly, t bar cars were made virtually obsolete by the advent of lipos. Pretty much everybody has switched over to the side spring design. You can offset a lipo on one side of the tbar but doing so makes the car very imbalanced. You can space a lipo up and over the tbar, but doing so makes the CG so high that the car will handle badly. If you want to run the tbar style car, at this point your only viable option would be to get a saddle pack 1 cell lipo. To my knowledge, only one company offers such a battery. That company is Speedzone, owned by Gavin Creado. He's got a thread on the team and company page. These days and because of the lipo batteries, tbar 1/12th scale cars are hardly even seen in competition. Sad, but true.
vafactor is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:13 PM   #39844
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 264
Default

So my new yokomo r12c3 got its first race tonight.

....i came first..

buy one..amazing car, 'nuff said

PurcyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:18 PM   #39845
Tech Regular
 
oreo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 269
Default ......t-bars & lipos.....

Greetings itr, i've tinker'd with my 12/10 L t-bar cars and untimately broke down and bought a 1S sadddle pack. And also I presently own a link car too.Supply and demand stirred-up the interest in saddles; Anyways, goodluck with your choices.
__________________
Rc 10L (x6)
(.......in 2010, I jus' may get to run one.)-Irrgang Racing Service;TeamCRP. R.I.P. Billy 105
oreo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:18 PM   #39846
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 972
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

1st place with no tires? Impressive
__________________
Team Serpent
Steve S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:20 PM   #39847
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 264
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve S View Post
1st place with no tires? Impressive
I know! lol i ran yokomo double pink fronts and mobgum magenta rears.

i wacked the bare wheels on earlier to do droop etc.

Had a serpent s120 ltx v2 before this..and well...the serpent sucked to be honest lol
PurcyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:29 PM   #39848
Tech Fanatic
 
b20btec's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Sugar Land
Posts: 916
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by PurcyP View Post
So my new yokomo r12c3 got its first race tonight.

....i came first..

buy one..amazing car, 'nuff said

Love it. Where are you getting your wheels and tires from? I almost pulled the trigger on buying a yok but i'm annoyed by the wheels. I also don't want to run ae stuff on it either.
b20btec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:31 PM   #39849
Moderator
 
Clegg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,601
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

For that Yok R12C3, anyone know the shimming offset needed if you replace the rear axel with an IRS to use standard BSR/Jaco rear rims?
__________________
Joe Kelly - JK720.net
5280 Raceway |5280raceway.com | 5280 Raceway Facebook
Clegg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 03:52 PM   #39850
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 264
Default

Shim offset not sure of sorry.


Im in the UK so my tyres are coming from mb models and my local hobby shop via cml


Pull the trigger dude the offset put me off originally but the car really is something special...i had a s120 ltx v2 before this and it put me right off racing 12th...this yoke has rekindled my love n so glad i took the plunge
PurcyP is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-25-2013, 08:13 PM   #39851
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Lexington, Ky
Posts: 763
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Are the 12r5.1 and 12r5.2 rear pods the same? I am wanting to put a team tamale pod on my 5.2 and the pod they list says 5.1. Thanks
bmcallister is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 01:46 AM   #39852
Tech Addict
 
Robert_K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Netherlands, Sweet Lake City
Posts: 500
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by b20btec View Post
Love it. Where are you getting your wheels and tires from? I almost pulled the trigger on buying a yok but i'm annoyed by the wheels. I also don't want to run ae stuff on it either.
Markus Mobers from Speedtechrc.de. Yokomo, already trued to a nice size.
Check his site.

Regards Robert
__________________
Sponsored by: Schumacher Racing and Dualsky
Supported by: Shepherd Benelux and Thunder Tiger.
Robert_K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 02:57 AM   #39853
Tech Master
 
ShadowAu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Somewhere you'd never heard of
Posts: 1,463
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

What are the better bodies to use? and which ones are actually more than 170mm wide

I just tried to fit up a Blitz body to my scratch build and its not even close

I've double checked my car width and its 171mm
__________________
I have only one more RC thing on my bucket list and I will keep racing (and probably coming last) till its done...
ShadowAu is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 06:41 AM   #39854
Tech Elite
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,422
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
I'm a bit rusty on tires...
- Is there anything I should be doing between runs?
- Saucing technique? (we use SXT at the track I run)

Thanks in advance...
Anyone?
__________________
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2013, 07:04 AM   #39855
Tech Master
 
WIITA's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,549
Trader Rating: 41 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Anyone?
I would suggest doing the following:

-Clean the tires with motor spray

-Rotate

-sauce 15min before your run

-wipe off right before setting the car down
__________________
Team CRC / Sanwa / Team scream / Genesis RC / Hobbywing / TQ Wire / Schelle / MIP / RC^2 / TEKNO / BoomRC
WIITA is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 01:19 PM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0