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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-18-2013, 07:31 PM   #39796
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Originally Posted by notsocrazybrit View Post
Guys I'm looking for some advice on gluing foam tire sidewalls.
In particular what type of CA do you use? Thick or Thin?
How do you apply it to get it even. Any secrets?
After the CA has been applied do you sand it smooth?
I don't use CA on rear tires. Weldwood contact cement is the magic stuff. It stays flexible when dry, which reduces chunking. I check the sidewalls after every run and add a little contact cement to any areas where the rubber starts peeling from the rim (between rubber and rim). 15 minutes later, she's ready to go.

I also add a layer of contact cement to the rear sidewall, let dry, then press the sidewall against some carpet to pick up fibers. This reinforces the sidewall while remaining flexible. Looks bad, but works good.
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:33 PM   #39797
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
You're a NY area guy right? What compounds are you running, and where?
Last year I would run pink magenta fronts and pink magenta rears... This year many company's are changing to the new compounds coming out of Japan. For example ProOneRc will have b35 compounds for the rears and team purple fronts. This will set the be standard for carpet racing...I'm waiting for my order. Use to run at 360 and this season will be at Critters in NJ. Spent most of the summer running 1/8th off road. Can't wait to get back to carpet racing this winter
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Old 09-18-2013, 07:56 PM   #39798
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
I don't use CA on rear tires. Weldwood contact cement is the magic stuff. It stays flexible when dry, which reduces chunking. I check the sidewalls after every run and add a little contact cement to any areas where the rubber starts peeling from the rim (between rubber and rim). 15 minutes later, she's ready to go.

I also add a layer of contact cement to the rear sidewall, let dry, then press the sidewall against some carpet to pick up fibers. This reinforces the sidewall while remaining flexible. Looks bad, but works good.
That's interesting...I have been considering trying contact cement instead of CA. Thought I saw some black contact cement at one time but I haven't been able to find it again. Maybe add some dye or paint to the contact cement to make it look better.
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Old 09-18-2013, 09:31 PM   #39799
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Honestly...running reasonably sized tires (41.5/42.5) I haven't glued sidewalls in ages. I found that when I glued sidewalls they would chunk really badly and it was even more maintenance. This is with many types of foam (synthetic, natural, weird new compounds) and both fronts and rears...

Probably the only thing I have had to glue recently are some of the Ultis come poorly glued from the factory, enough that you can lift the foam off of the rim, typically on the inside rear.
+1 on the poor glue job on the Ultis. Tough to stomach when 2 pairs of their $25 foam chunks WAY bad and then you notice that 80% around the rim 1/4" deep the foam is gone and you can still see machine marks in the rim where CA never made it except at the very very lip.
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:59 PM   #39800
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That's interesting...I have been considering trying contact cement instead of CA. Thought I saw some black contact cement at one time but I haven't been able to find it again. Maybe add some dye or paint to the contact cement to make it look better.
I think it was called Seal cement used repairing wet suits. Hobbietat had it, don't know if they still do.
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Old 09-19-2013, 12:29 AM   #39801
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Originally Posted by avs View Post
i don't know if this is a typo but a 26/69 would give you at least 50mm rollout and close to 60mm with uncut tires. 71 is the smallest spur i have seen in 64pitch, so maybe you meant 48pitch?

26/96 was the suggested gearing to start, which is equal to 19/72 or 18/69 in 48pitch.

64pitch is common with indoor tracks where sand/pebbles are not an issue, 48pitch might be a better choice for outdoors
Sorry my bad 26/96 in 64 p should give me 32-35mm roll out?
lol so much to learn
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:03 AM   #39802
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
That's interesting...I have been considering trying contact cement instead of CA. Thought I saw some black contact cement at one time but I haven't been able to find it again. Maybe add some dye or paint to the contact cement to make it look better.
You'll find that this also improves handling on very high traction surfaces, where the inside wheels can occasionally lift off the track. The contact cement on the rear sidewalls has much better traction than CA, so when the car bicycles and the sidewalls contact the track, the car doesn't spin. Using CA on the front sidewalls does the opposite; when the car bicycles and the front sidewalls contact the track, they have very little traction, and the car plops back down on all fours.

But I still use contact cement to re-glue the fronts where the rubber starts peeling from the rim.

EDIT: Use the flammable Weldwood contact cement. The non-flammable (water-based) stuff doesn't stick too well. I'm not sure it even qualifies to be called "cement".

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU View Post
I think it was called Seal cement used repairing wet suits. Hobbietat had it, don't know if they still do.
I like the idea of using Black Goo! I'll check out the local diving shop (since there are so many in Kansas). Or maybe I could add black Rit dye to the contact cement?
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:27 AM   #39803
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You can get black seal cement on amazon.com
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:46 AM   #39804
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You can get black seal cement on amazon.com
idbdoug
Thanks for the info, Doug!

It is much more expensive than Weldwood contact cement. The black seal cement is about $10 for 4 ounces, while Weldwood contact cement is $6.47 for 32 ounces at Walmart.

It still might be worth a shot.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:41 PM   #39805
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Thanks for the input guys.
I think I'll have to try the contact cement on the rear tires just for a bit of chunk protection.
The CA advice I war looking for was really for front tires and traction roll prevention. As was mentioned small front tires under 42mm with a nice shoulder seems like the best way to go, but in extreme grip conditions CA seems to be the fix.
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:04 PM   #39806
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Can someone take a photo of a fresh set of tires with the proper amount of rounding that will reduce chunking?
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:09 PM   #39807
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Can someone take a photo of a fresh set of tires with the proper amount of rounding that will reduce chunking?
rev8 with Ulti tires
41mm fr
43mm rr

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Old 09-19-2013, 06:14 PM   #39808
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Very nice!...... Super clean!
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:15 PM   #39809
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Battery cross ways...
What am I talking about, that's how I run mine. Is that your car RBF?
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Old 09-19-2013, 06:16 PM   #39810
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Excellent! Need to take a bit more off than I was. I come from slot cars so if I ever did any rounding at all it was 1/16-1/8 radius, so these big tires get a little scary!
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