R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

    Hide Wikipost
Old 10-28-2016, 12:43 PM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech Forums Thread Wiki: 1/12 forum
Please read: This is a community-maintained wiki post containing the most important information from this thread. You may edit the Wiki once you have been a member for 90 days and have made 90 posts.
 
Last edit by: fenton06
This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

Print Wikipost

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-16-2013, 04:45 PM   #39781
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Marietta, Ga
Posts: 2,087
Trader Rating: 57 (100%+)
Default

Both gears definitely have to be the same pitch. I have only used 64p so cannot comment on 48p. I believe some use 48p with mod motors and/or on asphalt tracks. They seem to be a little tougher for those conditions. Edit, also you want to shoot for a mid 30mm rollout with that motor.

(Tire diameter x pi) / (spur/pinion) = rollout
PROMODVETTE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 05:03 PM   #39782
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Also, a 4.5T is a little on the Hot side for a LRP sxx competition, if grip/load is high

General rule with 12th mod
Hot motor=under geared, spinning too much rpm
Hot Esc=Over geared, tall gear putting too much load into esc

Obviously the new escs with heat sinks/fans can handle more load, with the extra gift of added weight
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 09:43 PM   #39783
Tech Elite
 
Carl Giordano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Upper Saddle RIver, NJ
Posts: 2,181
Trader Rating: 18 (100%+)
Default Best tire truer adapter

FYI guys, since I run the CEFX chassis and former Z4 wheel set I recently learned that the wheel sets are now produced under a new brand "pro-one RC". Steve Dunn is the new owner and excellent to do business with. I'm glad he is continuing to provide one of the best 1/12th scale rim designs ever produced.

But ever more impressive is the 1/12 th scale tire truer adapter he sells. Finally someone has produced an adapter for ever 1/12 th scale rim produced. It even works for the Yokomo rims, Pro-0ne (former Z4), Jaco, BSR, CRC....
__________________
Mugen Racing / OS Engines / KO Propo / Byron Fuels / TOP Racing / Schuur Speed Motors / AKA / Bruckner Hobbies / Tamiya M-Chassis / Kyosho RB6
Carl Giordano is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 10:43 PM   #39784
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 28
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I'm confused with roll out .. what am I actually measuring ?
And which gear should I change the small one off the motor or the large diff gear
Sorry for the dumb questions not really sure what I am doing here lol
coollamon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #39785
Tech Champion
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Hawaii, USA
Posts: 7,157
Default

Correct me if I am wrong but...

Roll out is how far the car moves for 1 rotation of the motor. Normally gear ratio alone would be sufficient for calculation purposes but with cars running foam tires the roll out changes as the tires wear down. So as the tire wears down the car goes a shorter and shorter distance for every revolution of the motor. Roll out is calculated as tire circumference divided by gear ratio. Typically we change the pinion gear to get close to our roll out goal. Changing the spur gear takes too much time for track side adjustment.
InspGadgt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2013, 11:11 PM   #39786
Tech Champion
 
RedBullFiXX's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Intergalactic Planetary
Posts: 6,539
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by coollamon View Post
I'm confused with roll out .. what am I actually measuring ?
And which gear should I change the small one off the motor or the large diff gear
Sorry for the dumb questions not really sure what I am doing here lol
Check the link in my sig
Lots of info if you want to learn
__________________
--> 12th scale Information Source <--

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing."
― Oliver Wendell Holmes Jr.
RedBullFiXX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 12:42 AM   #39787
Tech Elite
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: lost...
Posts: 2,824
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
FYI guys, since I run the CEFX chassis and former Z4 wheel set I recently learned that the wheel sets are now produced under a new brand "pro-one RC". Steve Dunn is the new owner and excellent to do business with. I'm glad he is continuing to provide one of the best 1/12th scale rim designs ever produced.

But ever more impressive is the 1/12 th scale tire truer adapter he sells. Finally someone has produced an adapter for ever 1/12 th scale rim produced. It even works for the Yokomo rims, Pro-0ne (former Z4), Jaco, BSR, CRC....
Got a link, web address?
RoyU is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 06:21 AM   #39788
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 28
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Check the link in my sig
Lots of info if you want to learn
Awesome info ... thanks mate I didn't notice that your signature was also a link

I have ordered a couple of different pinion and diff combos,along with some new wheels 2 sets of pinks front and rear and 2 sets of magenta front and rear should give me something to try out over the weekend
So if I have read stuff correctly I should be looking for a roll out of 32-35 using a 64p 69/26 combo is that right?

Last edited by coollamon; 09-17-2013 at 07:01 AM.
coollamon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 07:54 AM   #39789
avs
Tech Master
 
avs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by coollamon View Post
So if I have read stuff correctly I should be looking for a roll out of 32-35 using a 64p 69/26 combo is that right?
i don't know if this is a typo but a 26/69 would give you at least 50mm rollout and close to 60mm with uncut tires. 71 is the smallest spur i have seen in 64pitch, so maybe you meant 48pitch?

26/96 was the suggested gearing to start, which is equal to 19/72 or 18/69 in 48pitch.

64pitch is common with indoor tracks where sand/pebbles are not an issue, 48pitch might be a better choice for outdoors
__________________
Tony Shimko
avs is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:07 AM   #39790
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,735
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyU View Post
Got a link, web address?
He has a facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ProOneRc

But the easiest way to get in touch with him is via email at: ProOneRC@Outlook.com

I personally think these are the best rims for use in 12th scale, based upon the flex characteristics of the rims due to the different mounting offset. You get forward bite from the softer inside of the rim, but the harder outside edge maintains corner speed. Combined with the new(er) rear compounds, these are pretty wicked!
__________________
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2013, 08:32 AM   #39791
Tech Elite
 
dr_hfuhuhurr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Westchester, NY
Posts: 4,422
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Giordano View Post
FYI guys, since I run the CEFX chassis and former Z4 wheel set I recently learned that the wheel sets are now produced under a new brand "pro-one RC". Steve Dunn is the new owner and excellent to do business with. I'm glad he is continuing to provide one of the best 1/12th scale rim designs ever produced.

But ever more impressive is the 1/12 th scale tire truer adapter he sells. Finally someone has produced an adapter for ever 1/12 th scale rim produced. It even works for the Yokomo rims, Pro-0ne (former Z4), Jaco, BSR, CRC....
You're a NY area guy right? What compounds are you running, and where?
__________________
"There is a fine line between hobby and mental illness. Which side are you on?"

“Life is hard; it's harder if you're stupid.” - John Wayne
dr_hfuhuhurr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2013, 04:34 PM   #39792
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 994
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Guys I'm looking for some advice on gluing foam tire sidewalls.
In particular what type of CA do you use? Thick or Thin?
How do you apply it to get it even. Any secrets?
After the CA has been applied do you sand it smooth?
__________________
Cheers,

Kev
notsocrazybrit is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2013, 04:54 PM   #39793
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 1,735
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by notsocrazybrit View Post
Guys I'm looking for some advice on gluing foam tire sidewalls.
In particular what type of CA do you use? Thick or Thin?
How do you apply it to get it even. Any secrets?
After the CA has been applied do you sand it smooth?
Honestly...running reasonably sized tires (41.5/42.5) I haven't glued sidewalls in ages. I found that when I glued sidewalls they would chunk really badly and it was even more maintenance. This is with many types of foam (synthetic, natural, weird new compounds) and both fronts and rears...

Probably the only thing I have had to glue recently are some of the Ultis come poorly glued from the factory, enough that you can lift the foam off of the rim, typically on the inside rear.
__________________
Chris Hillier | 5280 Raceway | www.5280raceway.com | Racing. Elevated.

Destiny | LRP America | Protoform | Xenon/JFT | Gravity RC | Motiv | Sanwa | Max.FX
LloydLoar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2013, 04:57 PM   #39794
Tech Addict
 
Mugen10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lexington, KY
Posts: 551
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Send a message via Yahoo to Mugen10 Send a message via Skype™ to Mugen10
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by notsocrazybrit View Post
Guys I'm looking for some advice on gluing foam tire sidewalls.
In particular what type of CA do you use? Thick or Thin?
How do you apply it to get it even. Any secrets?
After the CA has been applied do you sand it smooth?
The secrete is don't get it on your fingers.

In my option thin CA applies more even. Put a thin layer on, let dry, and repeat process again to assure it will not flake off.
Oh don't apply CA on rear tires only in extreme high bite grip. Then again don't do it. Change compound
__________________
Central Kentucky Racing
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Xray T4
Mugen10 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-18-2013, 05:45 PM   #39795
Tech Elite
 
DesertRat's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Sniffin the 'Sauce Fumes
Posts: 2,377
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

I am not convinced that CA is proper, I find that just heavily rounding off the outer edge of the tire and making sure it has good adhesion on the rim works fine. It also doesn't involve glueing your fingers together.
__________________
I race toy cars for fun. If I need to explain, you'll never understand.
If everything is under control... go faster.
WTB: Carpet racing in Arizona.
It is obvious and intuitive to the most casual of observers that RC racing is better than golf.
DesertRat is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New to the forum mig rod Electric Off-Road 1 01-05-2008 05:23 PM
hi i need help and im new to the forum racer4 Rookie Zone 4 01-21-2007 02:37 PM
Why is this forum listed under the On Road Forum? sport10 Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 0 01-11-2007 08:06 AM
Forum Changes... futureal Wisconsin & Illinois Racing 3 10-28-2002 09:26 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 07:21 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net

SEO by vBSEO 3.5.0