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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-14-2013, 10:06 AM   #39766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I love Ulti tires and X-compound works great at my local with Paragon sauce, but Ulti makes so many tires and compounds I put it out to the 1/12 community: Which Ultis should I buy to run in 17.5 stock at the IIC running Jack the Gripper?
IMO, if you are set on running the Ultis, the X-Soft is probably the only rear tire that is suitable for 17.5 in high bite conditions. The firmer X compounds really lock the car down when used in the rear. And while they work great for 13.5/Mod, I have never been able to get anything but the soft compound new foam to work in the rear for 17.5 12th... And that is at the club level, with lower grip. The grip we will see in Vegas will make it very difficult to get away with the X-Med rears, IMO.

I think a synthetic front coupled with the soft compound new foam in the rear is a great combination for 17.5. I have yet to run this combination in really high bite conditions, but I have had a lot of success on the club level running BSR Grey or Grey/Silver(Chrome) fronts with the Green rears(comparable to the Ulti X-Soft) in 17.5. I have also found the BSR Team Purple fronts and Green rears to be a killer combo when the grip is slightly lower (this would be comparable to Ulti J-Hard fronts and X-Soft rears)... I don't think the latter will be the ticket in Vegas, though. I expect to be on a synthetic front like a Grey or Chrome... Im not sure if Ulti makes any tires comparable to the standard synthetic/exotic compounds? But if they do, I would keep some in your arsenal if you are running 17.5.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:25 PM   #39767
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Looking for CRC tubes for the old Carpet Knife V3 or T-Force car. Actually preferring the blue anodized tubes (# 1371 B) but also silver tubes (#1369) are interesting. Not interested in red tubes (#1371 R) or Torpedo tubes for the Gen-X cars. The old style tubes 1371/1369 are longer than the newer tubs. Someone still have such CRC tubes? Please PM me.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:44 PM   #39768
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Default 12R5.1 ??

hey guys,
I'm picking up a used 12R5.1 just to be able to run 12 th scale if my local club ever runs it
so, I was just wondering, is there anything from the 5.2, or indeed any other car, I should pick up to bring my older model more up to date / make easier to drive.
I've never run pan car with Li-Po, although have run loads of pan cars over the last 25-30 years, so I'm just not sure the 5.1 is ideal for li-po, or if there is anything a guy needs to do to get the most out of it.

thanks !
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:54 PM   #39769
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12 View Post
Looking for CRC tubes for the old Carpet Knife V3 or T-Force car. Actually preferring the blue anodized tubes (# 1371 B) but also silver tubes (#1369) are interesting. Not interested in red tubes (#1371 R) or Torpedo tubes for the Gen-X cars. The old style tubes 1371/1369 are longer than the newer tubs. Someone still have such CRC tubes? Please PM me.
I have new in the pack blue tubes, but they are part #4117
not what you need??
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Old 09-14-2013, 08:08 PM   #39770
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Hi.

I don't have access to CRC parts but have plenty for AE's.

What AE parts are usable for a CRC Gen XL?

Thanks.
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:04 PM   #39771
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Hi Guys
I have an Ass 5.2 and my question is which way round to mount a hobbywing v3.1 1s
I have tried it on the left facing forward so the wires are on the outside of the chassis but that means the sensor lead is also on the outside Nd therefore vulnerable. Other suggestions / how do you do yours? Any pictures would be good
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:31 PM   #39772
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Originally Posted by Bosscat View Post
Hi Guys
I have an Ass 5.2 and my question is which way round to mount a hobbywing v3.1 1s
I have tried it on the left facing forward so the wires are on the outside of the chassis but that means the sensor lead is also on the outside Nd therefore vulnerable. Other suggestions / how do you do yours? Any pictures would be good
Here you go...this is what I did.
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Old 09-15-2013, 05:54 PM   #39773
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Anybody know anything about the new Cali Copper compound tires from T/M?
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:24 PM   #39774
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G'day all

I have dug out of retirement my 1/12th CRC carpet knife and I am looking to get it running again .

Last time I used this car (some 2 years ago) I was having problems with the speed controller over heating and switching into standby.

These are the specs of the Motor ,Battery and esc
Motor : Speed Passion 3.0 1 cell 4.5R
ESC : LRP sxx competition
Battery: cant see brand but it is roar approved and 1cell 50c 3.7volt

I remember someone telling me I need to change my gearing as this was what causing my esc to over heat.
could someone recommend a gear combo for my car as I am unsure as to what I need to order.
Cheers

John
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:33 PM   #39775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coollamon View Post
G'day all

I have dug out of retirement my 1/12th CRC carpet knife and I am looking to get it running again .

Last time I used this car (some 2 years ago) I was having problems with the speed controller over heating and switching into standby.

These are the specs of the Motor ,Battery and esc
Motor : Speed Passion 3.0 1 cell 4.5R
ESC : LRP sxx competition
Battery: cant see brand but it is roar approved and 1cell 50c 3.7volt

I remember someone telling me I need to change my gearing as this was what causing my esc to over heat.
could someone recommend a gear combo for my car as I am unsure as to what I need to order.
Cheers

John
I think about 100/26 is pretty common on our indoor 100x48 carpet tracks with ~42 mm tires and varying amounts of boost.
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:48 PM   #39776
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
Here you go...this is what I did.
Thanks for the quick reply but sorry should have said in common with a lot of uk racers I run my batteries across the chassis rather than in line hence the speedo is on the left as you look from the rear of the car.

Anyone else help please
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:57 PM   #39777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty View Post
I think about 100/26 is pretty common on our indoor 100x48 carpet tracks with ~42 mm tires and varying amounts of boost.
The gears I currently have on are 69 tooth main and 30 tooth spur so should I be going up as in a larger main gear with the bearings in it and spur gear ? or smaller?


John
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Old 09-16-2013, 08:55 AM   #39778
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Try 26/96. The ratio you are currently using is only a little more than what I was using with 13.5. How hot was your motor getting?
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:18 AM   #39779
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1/12 rules!
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PM me for paint work inquiries...

Last edited by RCFX Designs; 09-16-2013 at 01:27 PM.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:35 PM   #39780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROMODVETTE View Post
Try 26/96. The ratio you are currently using is only a little more than what I was using with 13.5. How hot was your motor getting?

The motor isnt getting hot at all just the esc .
Also whats the go with the pitch ? Is there a pitch specific to an engine or do you just need to make sure that both gears are the same pitch ?
Thanks for your help so far guys
John
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