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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-15-2003, 09:08 PM   #3961
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Got nothin much to say my Q12 is in final production hope to make the team proud.

Last edited by XRaycer; 09-15-2003 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 09-16-2003, 06:14 AM   #3962
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Default RC12L3 Setup Questions

I just put one of these together. It's the standard kit. I am running a four saddle pack and a 27T stock motor. I am running the stock foams. I believe they are Jaco's but I'm not sure of the compounds at the moment. I can't get the thing to stop pushing in our two high speed sweepers. I switched from the .059 tbar to the .075 tbar to stiffen the rear end. I also moved to the firmest rear spring I have (blue) and tightened the preload. The only thing I haven't checked yet is the front springs. Tonight I will go as light as I can with them. I just can't seem to keep enough weight on the front end while cornering under acceleration. Anyone have any ideas. I am new to the hobby in general and this is my first 1/12 scale.
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Old 09-16-2003, 06:28 AM   #3963
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Well there is some very good advice been thrown around here and I will take note of it all then make my mind up. I run a KR 8x2 in my CRC. I normally at the pointy end of the field and the car is hooked up and fast. But I have been thinking that the Kr is not the motor for 1/12 scale. It seems to be very hungry on power and runs out of high end revs. But when you think about it laydown brushes will give you touque not revs. So having said that the stand up brushed motor would be better.

I will try a TI again and compare but I know the TI will be better or a D5 with a slotted brush to reduce the surface area. At the end of the day a very light finger will improve you rollout and overall speed and runtime in 12th.

A question what type of rollout and wind motor you guys been using on tarmac outdoor track.

Coxy.
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Old 09-16-2003, 06:32 AM   #3964
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Default Re: RC12L3 Setup Questions

Quote:
Originally posted by jcrouse
I just put one of these together. It's the standard kit. I am running a four saddle pack and a 27T stock motor. I am running the stock foams. I believe they are Jaco's but I'm not sure of the compounds at the moment. I can't get the thing to stop pushing in our two high speed sweepers. I switched from the .059 tbar to the .075 tbar to stiffen the rear end. I also moved to the firmest rear spring I have (blue) and tightened the preload. The only thing I haven't checked yet is the front springs. Tonight I will go as light as I can with them. I just can't seem to keep enough weight on the front end while cornering under acceleration. Anyone have any ideas. I am new to the hobby in general and this is my first 1/12 scale.
I bet your using green rears that are way too soft. Do you run on carpet of black stuff. Sounds like you diff could be to tight and this is making it push as well.

anybody else to help him out.

Coxy.
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:11 AM   #3965
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Default RC12L3 Setup Questions

I started out with the green spring (kit standard). As noted, I have sice switched to the blue (heaviest) spring. I am running on a high traction outdoor asphalt road course.
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:13 AM   #3966
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Tires make all the difference in the world, also check your ride height, the rear may be to low
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:13 AM   #3967
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Your front end could be shimmed too tight, or it could be binding. Take the front hubs off, and use a 1/8" drill bit to ream out the hole the kingpin goes through. Do this by hand, until the block moves smoothly on the kingpin.

After that, reinstall everything the way it was. Then set the car on a table, and push on a front body post. If the opposite rear tire comes up, you have too many shims on the kingpin. Remove one, and do it again. DO that until the rear tire doesnt come off the ground when you push the body post. Then, lift the same body post. If the chassis lifts before the front tire, add a small shim to the kingpin. You can use motor shims. Keep doing that until you have the chassis lifting at the same time as the tire, and the rear tire not lifting when the suspension is compressed.

Repeat for the other side. What that does is allow the front suspension to work, your problem is likely that when you accellerate, one of your front tires lift because of binding or tight shimming.
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:19 AM   #3968
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Here's my asphult setup ...

TRC pink rear's
TRC purple fronts
.2 front springs
silver center spring
50 wt
3.5 mil ride height front and back
1 degree front camber
0.5 degrees toe out

that should get you in the ballpark !!

also check your dual rate, you may need to dial some more steering in
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Old 09-16-2003, 07:52 AM   #3969
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Default Question

I got myself a chassis, just like the Yokomo's wherein the batts are placed differently. I got it from RCMODEL.com the chassis is neat but way to thin thus flexes so much, which made me go wild in sweeping turns.
http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/produ...oducts_id=1044

Question is: can i place carbon fiber cut outs and screw them onto the chassis to make it stiffer?

Just a thought?

I know i should o back to the old chassis but want to try it out? has any of you done this procedure wherein you reinforce the chassis with carbon fiber plates?

Thanks and happy racing!

Lem
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Old 09-16-2003, 09:48 AM   #3970
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jcrouse -

I'm relatively new to 1/12, but based on my experience and the advice I've received from seasoned racers . . . it sounds like, possibly among other things, you should use different tires. A lot of racers use (Purple fronts) and (Grey rears) on carpet, regardless of the manufacturer. The kit tires are Jaco, and don't seem to be up for competition.

Hopefully it all comes together.

John R.
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Old 09-16-2003, 10:27 AM   #3971
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jcrouse what body are you using also adds to the equation also is youre ride hieght lower at the rear how much preload do you have
on the center spring are you running tweak screws are you putting tire traction on the front tires and how much. what are your toe angle whats your caster setting (one shim front or rear or o deg block )
you ll need to list what you have your car set up with to see what your starting with once we know then we can tell you what might help you to accomplish to be dialed
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Old 09-16-2003, 10:37 AM   #3972
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lem 2
i ran the yokomo yr12 on asphalt the car works great but youll need to add the a brace in between the front suspension caster blocks as that found on the 12l3 and youll also need to add a t-plate brace.
youll need to machine the dampener cross brace post to make it fit. as for carpet
i took an old back up chasiss and shoe glued on for carpet but since then i went ahead and got doug powells quad 12 and havent had a regrete the car for me is diled right out of the box on carpet it was fast this weekend i'll be running it on asphalt all i will do is set it up softer and let you know how it works . the conversion is cheap if you already got the yoke he has the chasis in ssg aswell look in the previous posts and drop him an email dpowell is his screen name.
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Last edited by speedxl; 09-16-2003 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 09-16-2003, 10:43 AM   #3973
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also stormperson your right 19t is fast enough we have been racing 4 cell 19 turn all seanson here and the cars are fast enough. and dave did a hell of a job at one point he was leading josh in the qualifiers but kept dumping dam kr's
guys if your starting out get your self a 19t motor if your running in modified and you will be surprized that the car is fast enough and controlable until you get that your consistant and the chasiss is developed to the point no matter what you do your times dont get faster (note each lap is within 2 to 3 tenth for the whole race ) and the car is dialed them maybe youll be ready for a mod motor.
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Old 09-16-2003, 04:45 PM   #3974
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Roll Out Question:

I recently tried a Monster Stock/ 4 cell in my 1/12 scale car. Can anyone give me a basic roll-out for this motor? Track is asphalt, I'm guessing at 125 x 75 road course (So Cal Raceway). Looking for a basic number range to start with......motor is box-stock. Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2003, 05:00 PM   #3975
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Can someone post a link for the quad 12?
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