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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-27-2013, 04:03 PM   #39661
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Ok, looks like I may be stepping on toes here, and if I am I am sorry. Just wondering if anyone can help me with what servo is the best for racing these 12th scales, please?
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:18 PM   #39662
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Originally Posted by OlGrumpy View Post
Ok, looks like I may be stepping on toes here, and if I am I am sorry. Just wondering if anyone can help me with what servo is the best for racing these 12th scales, please?
I like futuba S9650 and JR Z3650 those two brands have worked well for me for many years. I yhink some guys as of late have been using (poo, I just blanked the brand) savox or something...

And I see by your "stepping on toes" comment that you are grumpy :-)
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Old 07-27-2013, 05:57 PM   #39663
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Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
They are just gray versions of jacks white rims. Strong but flexible so they flex on a hit and don't shatter like crc rims.
The new BSR/CRC nylon wheels solve this problem... they are a bit more flexible than the old wheels and can take a much harder hit without cracking.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:03 PM   #39664
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could i race the tamiya RM-01 with other 1/12th scale cars like crc,ae?
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:12 PM   #39665
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Originally Posted by EricF View Post
I like futuba S9650 and JR Z3650 those two brands have worked well for me for many years. I yhink some guys as of late have been using (poo, I just blanked the brand) savox or something...

And I see by your "stepping on toes" comment that you are grumpy :-)
E
Ok, thanks for the help. I have the Z3650 so will try that.
No, not really but no one likes to be ignord.
Should know better with some self centered people. They can't think straight. :P
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Old 07-27-2013, 10:22 PM   #39666
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
The new BSR/CRC nylon wheels solve this problem... they are a bit more flexible than the old wheels and can take a much harder hit without cracking.
They have new wheels out? Any pics?
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:39 PM   #39667
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They have new wheels out? Any pics?
They are the same design/mold as the old wheels... just a different material(a flexible nylon instead of abs).

You can tell which version they are by the color. The new wheels are an "egg-shell"/off-white color... as opposed to the true white of the old wheels
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:04 PM   #39668
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Default overgear a 1/12th

Hi,

What will happen if you over gear a 1/12 ?
I have been testing over the weekend and slowly push a D3.5 4.5T motor from a roll out of 38 to 50mm. And at 50mm, motor is warm at 55 degree C.
(Singapore has a hot sunny weather ~32 degree C)

I noticed from my HW manual that the rollout for 4.5T should be 42mm.

I am thinking of pushing it to 55mm and see the effect.

Any advice.
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:17 PM   #39669
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Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
Hi,

What will happen if you over gear a 1/12 ?

Any advice.
I can't give you any advice, but I can give you a sound when you over gear your 1/12.

KAABOOM!
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:38 AM   #39670
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I can't give you any advice, but I can give you a sound when you over gear your 1/12.

KAABOOM!
I can understand that it will eventual go KAABOOM, is there any sign before it go KAPOO ? Rise in temperature ? how high is bad ?
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:51 AM   #39671
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Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
I can understand that it will eventual go KAABOOM, is there any sign before it go KAPOO ? Rise in temperature ? how high is bad ?
Well high heat cycles on a motor can weaken the rotor's magnetic properties over time. But overall high loads on the motor can stress the ESC and the Battery harder than you may want. The battery feels it the most and eventually can swell a bit or overheat and start to jack up the IR over time if you heavily cycle like that.

Overall, once and a while it doesn't hurt, just don't do it very often. And keep the thermal cut off enabled on your ESC (if it supports that). Worse case is typically the motor will go up in smoke, but that's incredibly hard to do on a 4.5T... you'll melt solder, thermal the ESC before you blow one of those up.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:10 AM   #39672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
Hi,

What will happen if you over gear a 1/12 ?
I have been testing over the weekend and slowly push a D3.5 4.5T motor from a roll out of 38 to 50mm. And at 50mm, motor is warm at 55 degree C.
(Singapore has a hot sunny weather ~32 degree C)

I noticed from my HW manual that the rollout for 4.5T should be 42mm.

I am thinking of pushing it to 55mm and see the effect.

Any advice.
In 1/12 Mod I think it will be almost impossible to overheat the motor. However your Speed control will get very hot. Mine is usually around 160-180 degrees with no fan. My motor temps are usually around 90-100 degrees.

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Old 07-29-2013, 09:56 AM   #39673
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Unless you are running on a BIG track, 75-100 meter or longer straight, I would say gear around 40mm and boost for top end.
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Old 07-29-2013, 12:25 PM   #39674
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Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
They are the same design/mold as the old wheels... just a different material(a flexible nylon instead of abs).

You can tell which version they are by the color. The new wheels are an "egg-shell"/off-white color... as opposed to the true white of the old wheels
Ah...I guess shops are still selling out their old stock. The last set I got was still the old plastic.
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:32 AM   #39675
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Default TIRES

Anybody using T/M tires for 1/12?
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