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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-15-2013, 03:11 PM   #39616
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IMO, running larger tires on a 1/12th scale car is false economy for a couple of reasons. A) big tires chunk more easily than smaller ones do, and B) the cars typically handle better with smaller tires. A good handling car means less "driver errors" that could cause a chunk. Beyond that, typically 1/12th scale tires need to be taken out of service more so because they are too chunked up to run well than because they are worn too small. So it's really less expensive in the long run just to true the tires down to a more raceable (better handling) size from the outset. It does seem painful to grind off so much rubber with the truer, but honestly, it's less expensive in the long run to bite the bullet and do it. Not to mention that the car will work dramatically better and be much more fun to drive on race size tires.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:13 PM   #39617
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Darn good points.
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Old 07-15-2013, 03:21 PM   #39618
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A good example of even the mfg's getting onboard with smaller tires being better overall for 1/12 is that Jaco's fronts ship at 42mm now. Which is nice because that's a great starting point for practice tires. I normally just skin them and round the edges on a truer and they are good to go.

Their rears are 44mm out of the box? I think? which is a tad big, so I bring them down to ~ 42 as well and go from there. Even in mod 1/12 you can get 1.5 or 2 full race days on a set at that point. In 17.5/13.5 you can get even more since they don't chunk, and if they do the chunk is so small it doesn't matter.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:15 PM   #39619
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I'll try those sizes next time out. And have to bump the gearing too.
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Old 07-15-2013, 04:42 PM   #39620
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hey Rc'eRs im in the middle of building my 12 scale,but just cant wait to get it on the track and was wondering can I use a novak gtb?(the original one_purple).its not going be permanat esc but just to fill in till I get my turnigy trackstar 1s esc inn?

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Old 07-15-2013, 05:27 PM   #39621
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Here is a little fact not many know. You can run any Novak ESC on 1s. Since there is no booster IN the ESC you have to do one of three things:
1: install a booster
2: install a small rx pack
3: run it without. As long as your servo has enough speed and torque on 1s and your rx can operate on 1s (all Spektrum can) then you are fine.
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:33 PM   #39622
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For example, I run a Novak GTB 2, Tekin 17.5RPM, Spektrum A5040, and it runs great with no booster.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:22 PM   #39623
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan_in_Az View Post
Here is a little fact not many know. You can run any Novak ESC on 1s. Since there is no booster IN the ESC you have to do one of three things:
1: install a booster
2: install a small rx pack
3: run it without. As long as your servo has enough speed and torque on 1s and your rx can operate on 1s (all Spektrum can) then you are fine.
ok I just put everything inn and everything seem to work great.im running a trinity 17.5,hitec 225 mg,and a sr300.servo is preety fast and tourque.motor seems a liitle slow but im going to bring it to track and see how it runs tho.cant find anyother place that's smooth unuff to run.
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Old 07-15-2013, 07:12 PM   #39624
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
For general club racing what size tires do you start with?

I am sure this is in the thread somewhere but I went back and searched and didn't come up with anything usable.
It depends on a few factors... obviously the most important being what surface you are running on. Carpet will require much smaller tires than asphalt.

It also depends on what brand you are using... Jaco front wheels are smaller than the BSR/CRC or the Gravitys. The wheels are also much flexier and typically work better with smaller tires. You will be at least 1mm smaller in the fronts with the Jacos than the other brands.

That all being said, I hate the way 12ths feel on larger tires. Even with the BSRs, I typically start at 40.8mm front/41.8mm rears for club racing... this allows me to get a full day on the tires(in 17.5) before they are small enough to set aside for practice @ a big race or when the bite really comes up. If Im caring less about being competitive and just out there turning laps, I will do 41.2/42.2mm... but any bigger than ~41mm in the front makes for some odd handling quirks IMO. The front should be glued when you are running that big on anything more than low low grip carpet.
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Old 07-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #39625
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I know this is a matter of opinion, but I have a question about 17.5 motors for 1/12. Sold my D3.5 while it was illegal, a week before they legalized them again. I'm looking to get a new motor and need an opinion from someone who has run a few of them.

I believe the hot ticket at carpet nats (at least one of them) was a Revtech with a torque rotor. That is one of my options.

Also considering a Reedy Sonic, Team Powers, Murfdogg and Orca. I'm not completely opposed to a D3.5, but would prefer not to have to replace the motor come spring.

Any comparisons based on actual running of the motors is welcome. The tracks I run on at MRH (80x36) and Horsham (100x45?), don't expect that to make a difference besides gearing, but more info can't hurt.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:41 AM   #39626
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Hi guys, I'm looking to a get a 1/12 car.
My question is, which is best?
I really love my xray t4 and am very keen to stick with xray. Is the x12 any good? Anyone got one?

Thanks!
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:12 AM   #39627
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Any of the modern day 1/12 cars are solid choices. The car you should get is the car you can easiest get parts for and the one that most racers in your area run.
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:22 PM   #39628
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I have some new & used sets of tires up for sale, feel free to make an offer.


12th scale tires, new and used sets
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Old 07-16-2013, 02:04 PM   #39629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
For general club racing what size tires do you start with?

I am sure this is in the thread somewhere but I went back and searched and didn't come up with anything usable.
For some tyre advice from a national A finalist here in the UK with 30 years experience of running 1/12th, have a read of this
http://rcracechat.com/vb/showthread....t-of-your-dosh
As he says, if you want to save money when club racing start them at whatever size they come in the packet, if they chunk you are either hitting things, the tyre is peeling away from the wheel, or using too soft a foam. If you do chunk them then there's no need to throw them away, you can repair them with foam from a spare damaged wheel.
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Old 07-16-2013, 03:35 PM   #39630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terry.sc View Post
If you do chunk them then there's no need to throw them away, you can repair them with foam from a spare damaged wheel.
Here in the USA the magic stuff for tire repair is Weldwood Contact Cement. It can also be used to coat the rear sidewalls to help prevent chunking. Put some on, let it dry 15 minutes or so, then press the sidewall down several times on some carpet. It will pick up fibers that serve as reinforcement.
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Last edited by howardcano; 07-16-2013 at 06:29 PM.
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