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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-10-2013, 09:58 AM   #39586
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFR View Post
Z3550 with A5040

I know James Stewart in the UK has the A5040 in his R12
I don't have and have not seen an R12 in person, so I can't say if the two servos you pictured will fit the Yokomo, but I am sure the Sanwa and the two servos you pictured are different case sizes. I say this because the JR 3550 is the same case as the 3650 and the 3650 is a different width and depth than the Sanwa servo as evidenced by CRC's need to allow for both with different hole patterns in their Xti. Now, it may be that with the differences with output off-sets and adjustments to the turnbuckle it will work perfectly, I just know the physical dimensions are different between the Sanwa and the Spektrum and JR servos mentioned. One thing to consider along the way is parts availability. I bough an Airtronics version of the Sanwa for my Xti and after a particularly hard hit running mod on a track with 2x4 barriers I broke the ear off the case. When I went to buy a new case I found that Airtronics did not have any and would not have any for several weeks or even months. So I went back to running the JR as I could get parts if needed. Just food for thought.
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Old 07-10-2013, 11:47 AM   #39587
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I cut both ears off my Jr servo and Shoe Goo'd it in place. This gave me enough room next to the servo to mount my transponder which would not have fit if the servo mount was there.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:30 PM   #39588
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Well, seeing as I've been name checked I thought I'd better chime in!

The A5040 is slightly larger than the Sanwa, but the chassis of the R12C is slotted so it does bolt in fine. The output spline is around 5mm off of a 'normal' servo centre, so it wouldn't really be suitable to mount up in the front of the car in the traditional location, it's the bellcrank that allows it to be used.

Since the spline sits slightly further forward in the car than it would with other servos it's necessary to either cut down the turnbuckle between the servo saver and the bellcrank or use a slightly shorter one. I use a 25mm Hot Bodies one and that's perfect for the job.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:25 PM   #39589
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Quick question - Do you bother balancing the main chassis? Or do you place your electronics in the best possible position and leave it at that? Right now I have a Speed Passion Pro (40g) without wires on one side, and KO 411 receiver (7.5g) on the other side. I've moved the ESC power cap (7.0g) on the receiver side. Also, the servo is slightly offset towards the receiver side.

In order to balance the chassis, I would need a lot of lead weight to balance things out.

What is your thoughts on adding lead weight to the chassis?

Should I add weight to gain for optimal chassis balance? Or leave it as is.
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:51 PM   #39590
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Are you running the battery inline or crossways in the car?
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:13 PM   #39591
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Ah forgot, its a Kyosho Ra and its running crossways.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:00 PM   #39592
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Stock or Mod?
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:07 PM   #39593
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Put the receiver, the cap, the transponder and anything else you can on the side the servo is offset towards, usually the right side. Put the ESC and the end of the of the battery with the contacts on the other side. By moving things in toward the center, or out toward the edge of the chassis, you should be able to get pretty close. Mine was within 3 grams, which I think is close enough.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:20 PM   #39594
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Hi guys, I'm going to start running some 12th scale on a new indoor asphalt track opening in the area and am looking for advice on 1s speedos, will most likely be running stock. Was looking at the Orion and the hobby wings??

Thanks,
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:00 PM   #39595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Hi guys, I'm going to start running some 12th scale on a new indoor asphalt track opening in the area and am looking for advice on 1s speedos, will most likely be running stock. Was looking at the Orion and the hobby wings??

Thanks,
In the same ballpark in price, and have been impressed by them (working on getting a few myself) maybe add the ORCA to your list.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:52 AM   #39596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James_stewart View Post
Well, seeing as I've been name checked I thought I'd better chime in!

The A5040 is slightly larger than the Sanwa, but the chassis of the R12C is slotted so it does bolt in fine. The output spline is around 5mm off of a 'normal' servo centre, so it wouldn't really be suitable to mount up in the front of the car in the traditional location, it's the bellcrank that allows it to be used.

Since the spline sits slightly further forward in the car than it would with other servos it's necessary to either cut down the turnbuckle between the servo saver and the bellcrank or use a slightly shorter one. I use a 25mm Hot Bodies one and that's perfect for the job.
Thanks all for the awnsers!

Regards Robert
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:28 AM   #39597
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The Sanwa SRG-HR is definitely worth tracking down. Here's a good place to order them from: http://www.modele.sklep.pl/en/Katalo...WO-SRG-HR.html
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:35 AM   #39598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Hi guys, I'm going to start running some 12th scale on a new indoor asphalt track opening in the area and am looking for advice on 1s speedos, will most likely be running stock. Was looking at the Orion and the hobby wings??

Thanks,
I've been running the Viper and the Orca...both are great ESCs so you can't go wrong with either. Tekin has said they are working on a 1s version of their new RS2 which sounds interesting...but no word yet on when they will be out.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:05 PM   #39599
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Hi.

Is there are roll chart that can be used as reference for the different motor turns?

Thanks.
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:30 AM   #39600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott B View Post
Hi guys, I'm going to start running some 12th scale on a new indoor asphalt track opening in the area and am looking for advice on 1s speedos, will most likely be running stock. Was looking at the Orion and the hobby wings??

Thanks,
I really like the Hobby Wings. Reasonable prices, reliable, awesome performance. I have 2 of the older 1s speedos. I would love to get some new 1s v3.1's if I need to replace them someday.
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