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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 09-15-2003, 12:10 PM   #3946
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hey guys that want a good conversion kit need to look at the quad 12 made by d powell i ran the car this weekend at the florida state series carpet race at the famous minregg club in tampa .
all i can say is the thing was hooked up.
i have never driven a car like this and made me feel confidant right out of the box. the thing drove on rails . i was on a TQ pace with the car on the last round of qualifying and missed it by 2 tenths i dumped. i had only 4 battery runs on the car . the chassis has the batt almost over the t-plate bring in the wait to the center
and dampaner tubes the chassis i ran was ssg and 2.5mm thick. this car by far is the best carpet car i have ever driven.
ive driven the rugrat that belonged to a friend and this thing is a lot nimbiler thru the infield due to the wieght distribution.
guys dont hesitate in getting this thing
you wont be disapointed.
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Old 09-15-2003, 03:05 PM   #3947
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Default Reedy KRs

Check out this post, It seems Krs need stiffer springs. I do not have one, but have read quite a lot. They had complaints of brushes wearing out in just a few runs, then went to stiffer brush springs and the thing came to life with much longer brush life.

See this post http://www.rccars.com/forums/showthr...cell#post14218

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Old 09-15-2003, 03:22 PM   #3948
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there where some guys running the kr motors in 12 scale and having problems dumping. its not and efficiant motor.
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Old 09-15-2003, 03:24 PM   #3949
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Stiffer springs will create even more amp draw...
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Old 09-15-2003, 04:03 PM   #3950
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the guy that was running it had the timing low and was running green spring to get lite tension but was still dumping.
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Old 09-15-2003, 04:55 PM   #3951
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Also just a note, 12th scale doesnt matter, at least to the big companies. So thats when Reedy made the KR they didnt care to test it out in 12th scales (I actually asked a local Reedy/AE driver about how good the KR was in 12th, and he said when he asked Mike Reedy that same question he said in so many words, "I dunno"). And at the Asphalt Nats it was painfully obvious how important (or lack there of) 12th scale was to the big companies, and Reedy's motors in general. Thankfully though they came out with the Platnium instead of denying that the KR isnt dialed for every form of racing. Kudos to them for it (and supporting 12th scale), since having two motors out simotaniously might make people second guess the KR, although trinity has the same deal going on the with EPIC/D5 (although its slightly different).
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:06 PM   #3952
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yes mark there was low 12 scale evolment from the manufactures dave vera was the guy that ran the kr motor and in qualifying was whooping cyruls a@@ but due to the motor not being tested before in twelth scale he had a bad time with it josh and chris had motors that had 12 scale developement. but owell next time.
hopefully with the new growth in twelth scale world wide things will change at least here in florida 12 scale has gone from 3 guys to over 20 cars at our state series races and growing with every race.
there are at this moment 5 cars coming out for the first time for the next race in 1 month and another six waiting for the new season to start in october. that is 29 cars more than last season and growing the manufactures are seeing this and usually starts in florida get started elswhere guys 12 scale is coming back and hard mark my words on it !
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:22 PM   #3953
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Reedy KR....
I've been running a KR 11.2 for 4 months and I don't have problems dumping and that's with running 2 qual. with old (8 months +) 3000's. I have not experienced excessive brush wear or any of the aforementioned problems...

I run in the top 3-5 at my track, Iíve cut the motor 3 times, just about once a month racing weekly.

Have you guys even tried to run these motors? Root (did say he doesn't have one, just 2nd hand info.), Or are you guys just going to believe everything that you hear or read in forums?

Stormperson, Root, speedxl, you guys post a lot of useful information but sometimes I wonder ... your comments on the KR are 2nd hand. I'm not saying it's the best motor out there, but why are you being so negative?

I'm not bashing, nor am I a top-level driver; I'm just making an observation.


E
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:36 PM   #3954
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fike dave vera is a factory driver for reedy
he's been in more a mains at a national level in twelth scale since the 80's than a lot of guys. he'll run the motor once or twice and will get a skimm of the topped and frsh brushes but remember its a national and i dont think but maybe a handfull of people can out finger him with the throttle and be more effeciant.
eventhough its second hand info straight from the horses mouth.
he was running a 10 double because its what mike gave him he didnt for see anyone racing 12 scale, the motor wasnt that efficiant
your running a 11 wind motor not the 8 and 9 wind motors these guys were running.
i run a lot of twelth scale here in florida and have tested with mods i have test a kr touring car motor and a trinity motor of the same wind but desiigned for 12 scale
the effeciancy is crappy compared to the trinity motor . a 12 scale motor is for twelve scale and ten scale is for tenth scale, .
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:42 PM   #3955
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Speedxl, What do you reccommend for a motor?
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:50 PM   #3956
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it depends what class youll be racing in.
what batterys you have and the track
trinity motors are good !
for stock and modified .
everyone has thier own preference!
if youre not that experianced then a 12 double would be good for you.
i kinda need more info on what you want so i can give you a better answer.
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:54 PM   #3957
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Speedxl,
With that being said I will agree with you, that at that level of competition maybe the motors are not good enough... but how many of us average racers can even run a 8 or 9 turn anything I know that I can't.

So what motors do you like? What seems to work best you you?

Eric
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Old 09-15-2003, 06:06 PM   #3958
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fike peak motors do well and so do the trinity motors for aslong as i been racing the trinity motors have always done well for me. keep in mind all the manufactures motor lineups are changing with new design so what ever i know is for the older motors i havent tried any of the new quad magnets besides truthfully the majority of the racing i do is with stock motors and 19t c2 based motors here in florida now for next season we'll be racing with the adjustable 19t motors with quad magnetes ask me this question again in a couple months .
as far as the big dogs thier skills are at a point higher than a lot of people
i ve made the a main at a national level
and know that theres alot driving skill needed to acheive a high level some of the guys that ive raced against can take something ill dump with with ten seconds to go and strecth it for another minute and a half . its not just their equipment its skills! and they have got alot.
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Old 09-15-2003, 07:26 PM   #3959
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I run a 11x2 ti on a 60'x36' track in my 1/12th on carpet. The track is going to 100'x 48' by november so i like to motor up a bit for Sh!ts and giggles. I ussually place top 3 and batts are not a problem.

Sorry for sounding like a newbie, in way I am. I'm more of a nitro guy.
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Old 09-15-2003, 08:17 PM   #3960
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The info/comments I have been getting are straight from full factory drivers (from both the Reedy and Trinity side of the fence), which are probably better sources that I ever will be! lol When a factory driver tells your something is wrong with their stuff or company, you know that they probably arent making it up.

As far as Dave at the Nats, he did an amazing job espically considering what he had to work with. Also in 12th scale, josh is almost untouchable, so you have to consider that as well.

As far as club racing with mod motors, for carpet a 19t motor isnt always a bad idea. Last winter when we had a big Speedmerchant crowd at my local track, I ran a 19t, i think DavidL and Bruce did as well, and they were plently fast (and we have a 100 foot straight).

Although I wouldnt suggest dipping below a 12 turn unless you really need to and know that you can handle it and make your times faster and just as consistant as with a slower motor.
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