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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-09-2013, 11:59 AM   #39571
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Note the NEW chassis and damper tube front suspension. 2014 Worlds Car maybe?
Er... used at the 2012 Worlds! Do keep up Glenn!
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Old 07-09-2013, 12:34 PM   #39572
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Er... used at the 2012 Worlds! Do keep up Glenn!
The skinny chassis and damper tube front suspension was not used at the 2012 Worlds as far as the pics indicate...

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Old 07-09-2013, 01:12 PM   #39573
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Pretty sure that transverse battery cars are going to be the thing to run at the 2014 Worlds on asphalt. The inline cars cannot get the weight far back enough to make them aggressive enough on asphalt. In line cars were designed to be consistent on high grip carpet by putting the weight forward and reducing weight transfer off power. You need the weight transfer to make the car turn in better on asphalt and lower grip carpet.

This is why the CRC Xti inline only works at big high grip races. Club racers and mod drivers have to get the transverse kit or get their but handed to them.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:11 PM   #39574
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My Xti works fine in the stock configuration on our local asphalt track. My fast laps are right on par with the fastest guy at the track...just my driving isn't as consistent or I'd be the fast guy
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:25 PM   #39575
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I prefer transverse for both but that's just me
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:28 PM   #39576
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
My Xti works fine in the stock configuration on our local asphalt track. My fast laps are right on par with the fastest guy at the track...just my driving isn't as consistent or I'd be the fast guy
That's the same thing a racer at our local med grip carpet track told me about his inline Xti. He could match my fast lap with his Xti. He just couldn't keep it up for 8 minutes. In WGT, with his Gen X10 either he was faster than me or we were equal. In 1/12 I was 1-2 laps faster than him.

I told him if he got the transverse kit he would become more consistent and much faster. He got the kit and now we are neck and neck in 1/12.

On asphalt if you got the kit and ran the battery as far back as you could I bet you would get WAY faster.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:33 PM   #39577
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Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
That's the same thing a racer at our local med grip carpet track told me about his inline Xti. He could match my fast lap with his Xti. He just couldn't keep it up for 8 minutes. In WGT, with his Gen X10 either he was faster than me or we were equal. In 1/12 I was 1-2 laps faster than him.

I told him if he got the transverse kit he would become more consistent and much faster. He got the kit and now we are neck and neck in 1/12.

On asphalt if you got the kit and ran the battery as far back as you could I bet you would get WAY faster.
With my Xi I was no faster than I am with the Xti. The consistency problem isn't the car or it would be happening on carpet too. Its most definitely the driver in my case. If anything my Xti is over aggressive. I had to tone down the setup to make it work. I'm just not a consistent driver.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:44 AM   #39578
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Originally Posted by CFR View Post
Probably the Sanwa SRG-HR (blue plug is a give away)

Spektrum A5040 Servo is cheaper and fits. David Spashett runs one in his 12th which isn't a Yokomo by the way.

JR Z3550 and Airtronics 94761Z also look to fit
Are you sure? The servo's you name are the 'normal' servo's used in 12th scale. This Servo looks like it's longer and smaller (in width). Or is it just my eyes?

Regards Robert
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:50 AM   #39579
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It's cool to see there is a 1/12th specific thread on here. Since there is not one in the for sale/trade section I figured I'd post this on here to reach a much more knowledgeable group. Yes it's an oldie, but goodie. And at the right price too. Thanks for looking!

CRC 1/12th Carpet Knife 3.2R - CHEAP
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:52 AM   #39580
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Are you sure? The servo's you name are the 'normal' servo's used in 12th scale. This Servo looks like it's longer and smaller (in width). Or is it just my eyes?

Regards Robert
Z3550 with A5040

I know James Stewart in the UK has the A5040 in his R12
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Old 07-10-2013, 07:57 AM   #39581
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Default FDR

What would be the ideal FDR for a 7.5t motor using standard Jaco tires. I'm running in a big asphalt track.
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:07 AM   #39582
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What would be the ideal FDR for a 7.5t motor using standard Jaco tires. I'm running in a big asphalt track.
A few things:

1. Forget about FDR. It's a totally meaningless concept for foam tired pan cars. We use rollout.

2. Rollout will depend on a lot of different factors, motor, speedo and settings, timing, track, etc.

3. 7.5 is not a common motor for 1/12th so it will be hard to find a large amount of data on it. Most people run either 10.5 or higher spec motors or 5.5 or hotter mod motors. Hopefully someone around here has run one and can get you in the ballpark but you will have to start there and figure out where to go on your own. My guess would be somewhere around 45mm but I could be miles off.

Here is one of many online rollout calculators.

http://gearchart.com/
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:33 AM   #39583
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
A few things:

1. Forget about FDR. It's a totally meaningless concept for foam tired pan cars. We use rollout.

2. Rollout will depend on a lot of different factors, motor, speedo and settings, timing, track, etc.

3. 7.5 is not a common motor for 1/12th so it will be hard to find a large amount of data on it. Most people run either 10.5 or higher spec motors or 5.5 or hotter mod motors. Hopefully someone around here has run one and can get you in the ballpark but you will have to start there and figure out where to go on your own. My guess would be somewhere around 45mm but I could be miles off.

Here is one of many online rollout calculators.

http://gearchart.com/
Ok, thanks.

For the 5.5t, what's your normal roll-out using out of the box jaco tires?
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:57 AM   #39584
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Ok, thanks.

For the 5.5t, what's your normal roll-out using out of the box jaco tires?
It's been a while since I ran any mod but about 40mm sounds about right. Again, it will depend on other things. If you run lots of timing and boost, you might need to be down around 35. Very little timing and boost might need 45mm.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:17 AM   #39585
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Ok, thanks.

For the 5.5t, what's your normal roll-out using out of the box jaco tires?
Just an FYI... while rollout measurement/calculation is dependent on tire diameter, the concept of what rollout to use for a given motor/speedo combination is not.

If you are using a 5.5T motor, you should be running a 40mm rollout(example) regardless of whether your tire size is 42mm or 48mm. The gearing will need to be changed depending on the diameter of your rear tires... but asking what rollout to use for a given tire size is effectively meaningless.
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