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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 07-08-2013, 01:38 PM   #39556
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
I'm trying to find an easy reliable method of measuring front toe on a 1/12. I don't have a setup station that will work in a 1/12 front axel, so that it not an option at the moment, and I don't want to eyeball the setting. I've searched this thread and haven't found any kind of quick and easy method.

Thanks for your help.
I've always used digital calipers
Measure inside gap between wheels, from front, and back side

with an adjustment range of Zero to 2mm toe out

Simple, quick, accurate
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:14 PM   #39557
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
I've always used digital calipers
Measure inside gap between wheels, from front, and back side

with an adjustment range of Zero to 2mm toe out

Simple, quick, accurate
+1

I do the exact same thing...on all cars. 1/12, WGT and Sedan.

I actually much prefer this to setup stations. Its much more accurate.
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:15 PM   #39558
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeFrazer View Post
Who makes this car?
It's custom built, home made.

Most of the front end is Yokomo R12, modified for independent shocks instead of a monoshock. Active Hobby A210SS rear suspension arms and uprights. Tamiya diff. Everything else has been custom built for it.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:07 PM   #39559
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Hey guys,
Looking to start racing 1/12 again after being out of the hobby for several years. I have a 3.2 carpet knife to resurrect and I need an inexpensive esc capable of blinky 17.5 (indoor carpet) and full blown mod (large outdoor track). I will also need a few battery packs.

What are your suggestions for a tight budget?

Thank you
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Old 07-09-2013, 01:16 AM   #39560
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Wanted / Irrgang alxe, IRS2136BL

Any online stores sell them other than their site that don't want $29 shipped to the UK?

Irrgang Diff / 3mm offset hub axle
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:27 AM   #39561
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Found it at Masami Hirosaka his facebook. So I don't have a Link. Sorry.

Regards Robert
Check this out for crazy idea. Including a new Yokomo R12 chassis.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:27 AM   #39562
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Found it at Masami Hirosaka his facebook. So I don't have a Link. Sorry.

Regards Robert
https://picasaweb.google.com/KimihikoYano/2013112#

Check this out for crazy idea. Including a new Yokomo R12 chassis.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:28 AM   #39563
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Originally Posted by CFR View Post
Wanted / Irrgang alxe, IRS2136BL

Any online stores sell them other than their site that don't want $29 shipped to the UK?

Irrgang Diff / 3mm offset hub axle
Mind if I asked, what is the purpose with 3mm as compared with that without ?

Just curious.
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Old 07-09-2013, 03:51 AM   #39564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTolle View Post
Hey guys,
Looking to start racing 1/12 again after being out of the hobby for several years. I have a 3.2 carpet knife to resurrect and I need an inexpensive esc capable of blinky 17.5 (indoor carpet) and full blown mod (large outdoor track). I will also need a few battery packs.

What are your suggestions for a tight budget?

Thank you
I used Hobbywing Xerun 120a 1s. No need of rx battery. Well made, extremely durable cost less and reliable than any other 1s esc out there.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:57 AM   #39565
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
Mind if I asked, what is the purpose with 3mm as compared with that without ?

Just curious.
Standard is for brushed pods like a 12L4, 3mm offset is for brushless pods.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:09 AM   #39566
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CFR View Post
Wanted / Irrgang alxe, IRS2136BL

Any online stores sell them other than their site that don't want $29 shipped to the UK?

Irrgang Diff / 3mm offset hub axle
If you aren't in a rush try contacting CML, they used to import all IRS parts.
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Old 07-09-2013, 07:11 AM   #39567
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
https://picasaweb.google.com/KimihikoYano/2013112#

Check this out for crazy idea. Including a new Yokomo R12 chassis.
Looks like there are a few experimenting with IRS 1/12ths. Maybe the AYK Cyclone was 30 years ahead of its time.
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:49 AM   #39568
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Anyone have any idea on what type/model servo this is:



Regards Robert
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:53 AM   #39569
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Anyone have any idea on what type/model servo this is:


Regards Robert
Probably the Sanwa SRG-HR (blue plug is a give away)

Spektrum A5040 Servo is cheaper and fits. David Spashett runs one in his 12th which isn't a Yokomo by the way.

JR Z3550 and Airtronics 94761Z also look to fit
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:55 AM   #39570
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Note the NEW chassis and damper tube front suspension. 2014 Worlds Car maybe?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post


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