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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-20-2013, 09:26 AM   #39511
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The problem with the aluminum caster blocks is that if the caster block doesn't break, something else will and it could potentially be even more annoying of a part to replace. Alternately, the aluminum bends.

There are a couple drivers around here who have tried to strengthen the CRC caster blocks by placing a screw through them at the base of each caster block (laterally, across the car). This has helped a little bit, but also seems to hide a cracked caster block, which can make it difficult to see and replace.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:02 AM   #39512
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I think that as you get better at driving you will break less and less of these, but I went through these things like Bud Light through Ficco.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:22 PM   #39513
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I've never broken a caster block either or even seen one broken. CRC does make them in aluminum, but that's mostly just a bling option to add a little more red alloy to the car for those who are really anal about appearances. Adding an upper front brace (which CRC also offers as an option) would spread any impact loading between both caster blocks and should help to avoid breakage in that area. But, honestly, the main reason for the optional upper brace is for those who want to alter the car's handling very slightly by adding a little more front end stiffness. Personally, I like the handling better without the optional upper brace.
Yep but I use it for tuning more than a one is better than the other thing. If the car is a bit pushy on entry and I have a brace on it, removing it is the first thing I do. If it's twitchy on entry, putting it back on is the first change I make. I even keep a squishy brace handy for an in between adjustment. I rarely use that one though. My favorite is that skinny little carbon brace that goes under the caster blocks as that both stiffens the front and raises the arms slightly so it's a pretty noticeable change.
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Old 06-20-2013, 12:55 PM   #39514
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I've broken one and bent one plastic caster block for the CRC front end...But it is pretty rare. I've been running the CRC front end for years and only had 2 damaged plastic caster blocks. Now the aluminum ones on the other hand actually bend easier than the plastic ones and I bent a couple of those. But they do look nice So I run them on my car when I run the upper cross brace.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:13 PM   #39515
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Originally Posted by wingracer View Post
The biggest, strongest legal rotor available for the motor.
I was hoping for more specifics for motor tuning for 12th scale.

Torque or RPM rotor? Larger Diameter rotor or smaller?

Anyone tried/like the new Killshot motors in 12th?

Really want to dig into the geekiness of 12th scale motor tuning.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:16 PM   #39516
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
The problem with the aluminum caster blocks is that if the caster block doesn't break, something else will and it could potentially be even more annoying of a part to replace. Alternately, the aluminum bends.

There are a couple drivers around here who have tried to strengthen the CRC caster blocks by placing a screw through them at the base of each caster block (laterally, across the car). This has helped a little bit, but also seems to hide a cracked caster block, which can make it difficult to see and replace.
Yep, I have been doing the screw trick, and it works OK, but each run you need to check to see if the caster block is tweaked at all. Because as Chris just said above, it can crack, and hold together very well, so you get your run in, but the caster is all f'd up.

I started doing this because running mod, these things are fragile like glass if you hit at wall at speed in mod. I got tired of having runs cut short by them.
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Old 06-20-2013, 01:37 PM   #39517
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Originally Posted by dr_hfuhuhurr View Post
I was hoping for more specifics for motor tuning for 12th scale.

Torque or RPM rotor? Larger Diameter rotor or smaller?

Anyone tried/like the new Killshot motors in 12th?

Really want to dig into the geekiness of 12th scale motor tuning.
Blake,

Chuck Pfahler was at our track recently running a killshot with a high RPM stator and the 12.3mm High Torque rotor. It was plenty fast, and seemed to carry quite deeply into the eight minute run. I've been running the d3.5 with the stock, broad powerband (purple) rotor with great success.
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Old 06-20-2013, 05:51 PM   #39518
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Blake,

Chuck Pfahler was at our track recently running a killshot with a high RPM stator and the 12.3mm High Torque rotor. It was plenty fast, and seemed to carry quite deeply into the eight minute run. I've been running the d3.5 with the stock, broad powerband (purple) rotor with great success.

Chuck seem to really like the Killshot with the stator and rotor setup. That is on my shopping list for this indoor season.
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:08 PM   #39519
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the CRC cars are remarkably durable so not many spares are needed. I'd suggest having a pair of lower front arms and a pair of steering blocks. It takes a seriously hard hit to break anything else on the car. It's also good to have a couple of extra spur gears since those will strip if the motor comes loose or is knocked forward in a hard frontal impact. And an extra body is a good idea for new folks who tend to hit a lot of boards at first. And for tuning.......I'd suggest having a pair of front springs one step harder than standard. The kit shock spring and side springs are correct for most conditions. I also suggest that you get a tube of 10,000 and a tube of 20,000 tube lube. You will also need the full sets of both front and rear ride height adjusters. And the main thing that effects the performance of a 1/12th scale car is tires. Fresh tires of the correct compound, cut to the right sizes, and in good condition are key. Team drivers' chassis setup sheets including their tire selections can be found on the CRC site.
Thanks Vafactor.

What FDR would you suggest for a large indoor asphalt track / medium grip for a 13.5T, 10.5T or 6.5T BL motor? My esc will be a LRP SXX v2 competition and tires will be Jaco pinks.
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:20 AM   #39520
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Thanks Vafactor.

What FDR would you suggest for a large indoor asphalt track / medium grip for a 13.5T, 10.5T or 6.5T BL motor? My esc will be a LRP SXX v2 competition and tires will be Jaco pinks.
If you are new to 1/12th, I would definitely not recommend starting out with a 10.5 and for sure not with a 6.5. 13.5's are plenty fast and fun, even for seasoned 1/12th scale racers. The faster you go, the more critical the car's setup becomes and the more breakage becomes an issue as a result of the increased power and speed. For a 13.5 on our small to medium indoor carpet track, I typically start the day with a rollout around 85mm and adjust from there. For a larger asphalt layout, you'll probably wind up geared a little taller. One other suggestion, you might want to consider trying double pink fronts in combination with the pink rears.
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Old 06-22-2013, 10:50 AM   #39521
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At our track the AE is the dominating car. That is what most guys run. Any new hot cars in the works for this fall and winter indoor season? I for one want to step outside of the pack.
I have been looking at the Serpent or the Top.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:13 PM   #39522
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If you are new to 1/12th, I would definitely not recommend starting out with a 10.5 and for sure not with a 6.5. 13.5's are plenty fast and fun, even for seasoned 1/12th scale racers. The faster you go, the more critical the car's setup becomes and the more breakage becomes an issue as a result of the increased power and speed. For a 13.5 on our small to medium indoor carpet track, I typically start the day with a rollout around 85mm and adjust from there. For a larger asphalt layout, you'll probably wind up geared a little taller. One other suggestion, you might want to consider trying double pink fronts in combination with the pink rears.
Thanks again Vafactor.

I'll try to get myself a 13.5t or 17.5t BL then. Would also try those double pinks up front. Sorry but I'm really new to this but when you say 85mm roll-out, what pinion/spur combination would that be?

What body would be nice for indoor asphalt?

Thanks for being so nice in answering questions from a newbie.
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:36 PM   #39523
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Thanks again Vafactor.

I'll try to get myself a 13.5t or 17.5t BL then. Would also try those double pinks up front. Sorry but I'm really new to this but when you say 85mm roll-out, what pinion/spur combination would that be?

What body would be nice for indoor asphalt?

Thanks for being so nice in answering questions from a newbie.
a nice neutral handling body would be either the Protoform AMR or the Black Art Mowhawk (from CRC). Rollout is calculated as follows: tire diameter in millimeters times 3.14 times the number of teeth on the pinion divided by the number of teeth on the spur = rollout. an example 42mm diameter rear tires x 3.14 x 47 tooth pinion / 72 tooth spur = 86.08mm rollout
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Old 06-23-2013, 07:44 AM   #39524
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Thanks again Vafactor.

I'll try to get myself a 13.5t or 17.5t BL then. Would also try those double pinks up front. Sorry but I'm really new to this but when you say 85mm roll-out, what pinion/spur combination would that be?

What body would be nice for indoor asphalt?

Thanks for being so nice in answering questions from a newbie.
Before spending on motors, tires (and traction compound) you really should check out the track you intend to race at.

regarding motors, there will only be certain motor classes running there (17.5 and mod or 17.5 and 13.5 or whatever).

regarding tire selection, see what they are running in the class you intend to participate in. most people will suggest pinks for asphalt, but my local asphalt track was better with greens or black/yellow (carpet tires). Also, many carpet tracks do well with pinks but black/orange works best at my local carpet track, pinks won't go 8minutes, by 4minutes they are going away. my point is that what is best depends on the local conditions at your track.
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Old 06-23-2013, 12:23 PM   #39525
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Is associated planning of a new 12th car?
Fancy a 5.2 but dont want to buy one if a new one is round the corner.
Thanks
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