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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 06-16-2013, 10:36 AM   #39481
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Hmm. So for background, with a HB shock on my CEFX, I have always been advised to run 40wt or so. Mostly this was to gain steering. Considering the 12r5 is inline to begin with, I am just surprised to see such low shock oil weights, unless the shock has a one hole piston or something, heh.

For the guy asking rollout questions, are you asking about rough starting points for rollout depending on motor?
the 12r5 shock has no 0 holes. the piston is a metal disk 'permanently' attached to the shaft.
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:42 AM   #39482
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Can anybody who is familiar with the AE cars comment on whether the center shock for the 12r5 always requires lower weight shock oil when compared to a silva or other center shock? I have noticed that most mod setups for the 12r5 only use 25 or 27.5 wt oil and am trying to figure out why...?
Piston to cylinder clearance, overall shock diameter, and the Zero rebound thru shock design of an AE shock, separates it from others as far as damping resistance

Apples to Oranges
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Old 06-16-2013, 10:47 AM   #39483
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To be exact, i have heard people saying rollout. But i shall ask what should i use rollout for? Calculating the gear ratio? Sorry for being naive.
As you are new to 12th scale
Check out the link in my sig

Among those links you will find this explanation of RollOut
There are also many time saving rollout apps for droid & apple users
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:02 AM   #39484
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
Hmm. So for background, with a HB shock on my CEFX, I have always been advised to run 40wt or so. Mostly this was to gain steering. Considering the 12r5 is inline to begin with, I am just surprised to see such low shock oil weights, unless the shock has a one hole piston or something, heh.

For the guy asking rollout questions, are you asking about rough starting points for rollout depending on motor?
I had a 12R5.1 before the TOP and I replaced the center shock w/ a HB after running it for a bit. The stock shock w/ 25wt had very similar compression damping characteristics to the HB w/ 30wt. The rebound is kind of difficult to compare due to the differences between the thru-shaft and bladder designs. Either way, 40wt in the HB shock is pretty dang heavy...
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Old 06-16-2013, 07:17 PM   #39485
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To be exact, i have heard people saying rollout. But i shall ask what should i use rollout for? Calculating the gear ratio? Sorry for being naive.
Rollout is the distance the car will travel for one revolution of the motor. As your tires wear down, this distance becomes less and less, meaning, your top speed is being reduced. So generally you gear for the track, and pinion up as your tires wear to keep your top speed the same though out the event.
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Old 06-16-2013, 11:58 PM   #39486
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hey guys since my summer season got squashed before it even started. so i'm starting to think of indoors. just curious what are Gravity tires and sauce like.

just looking at different products and also looking for a new chassis. and esc. mainly going to be running 13.5 blinky(i guess) . and a new servo. just want to be prepared for this coming up season.

I guess really my actul question how do they compare to CRC tires. and what other kinds are out there. thanks. we run on crc carpet. not much of a groove till the mains. most us jack for traction wash.
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Old 06-17-2013, 09:32 AM   #39487
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Originally Posted by cyrrus View Post
hey guys since my summer season got squashed before it even started. so i'm starting to think of indoors. just curious what are Gravity tires and sauce like.

just looking at different products and also looking for a new chassis. and esc. mainly going to be running 13.5 blinky(i guess) . and a new servo. just want to be prepared for this coming up season.

I guess really my actul question how do they compare to CRC tires. and what other kinds are out there. thanks. we run on crc carpet. not much of a groove till the mains. most us jack for traction wash.
I like the RC Gravity softs front and rear. They seem a bit harder than pinks. The mediums are harder than magenta...maybe double pink. I tried the mediums first and they did not grip like magenta foam.

I am loving the Spectrum H5020G servo. It's 2x faster than anything futaba has and it's only $49.

I don't like boosters and rx packs. I run a HW 120A 1s but if I were getting a new ESC I would get the new v3.1 1s. No external capacitors and a onboard switch is nice.
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:20 AM   #39488
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thanks all for the advice on rollout.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:40 PM   #39489
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Default front suspension dampening

how do you guys dampen your front end suspension movement? My car is inconsistent as just putting some tube dampener fluid wears off or picks up track debris quickly. Are there any tricks that I don't know about?

I still might try a setup where I use a chopped-down dampener tube or 1/24 scale shock on the CRC front I run. I'm not sure if the complexity is worth it though.
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Old 06-18-2013, 04:55 PM   #39490
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how do you guys dampen your front end suspension movement? My car is inconsistent as just putting some tube dampener fluid wears off or picks up track debris quickly. Are there any tricks that I don't know about?

I still might try a setup where I use a chopped-down dampener tube or 1/24 scale shock on the CRC front I run. I'm not sure if the complexity is worth it though.
With R5 front ends
30k
Apply liberally
Works all day
Our track is pretty clean though
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Old 06-18-2013, 06:30 PM   #39491
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With R5 front ends
30k
Apply liberally
Works all day
Our track is pretty clean though
I have always wanted to be more "on it" with regards to kingpin lube, but it is such a mess that I always end up doing it for a day and then stopping for a couple months before I get the urge again. To be entirely honest I never noticed a huge difference, other than it seemed to calm the front end of a mod car down just a tad.
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:20 PM   #39492
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I have always wanted to be more "on it" with regards to kingpin lube, but it is such a mess that I always end up doing it for a day and then stopping for a couple months before I get the urge again. To be entirely honest I never noticed a huge difference, other than it seemed to calm the front end of a mod car down just a tad.
I find it just makes the car a touch more accurate, and easier to drive

Funny thing about this reminds me how 12th & WGT seem so extremely inexpensive & light on maintenance, in comparison to running Taxi's again
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Old 06-18-2013, 07:30 PM   #39493
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I find it just makes the car a touch more accurate, and easier to drive

Funny thing about this reminds me how 12th & WGT seem so extremely inexpensive & light on maintenance, in comparison to running Taxi's again
Taxi's are cheaper than offroad, where I race guys are going through two sets of buggy rear tires a night even in stock.

BRB, gotta go work on my TC, somebody said you should drill a 1mm hole in the shock cap and cut the top deck and chassis so the car is as flimsy as a playing card.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:12 AM   #39494
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Smile New to 1/12th scale

Hi.

I've been wanting to run this class for a long time now and finally have decided to try it after quitting 1/10 offroad.

I have three options now with regard to kits, a CRC Gen XL, AE RC12L3 and a Yokomo R12. Which was is better for a medium sized and medium traction indoor asphalt track?

Would appreciate if you guys can help me out regarding the pros and cons of each kit? I plan to run with a 10.5 turn BL motor? Also, what tires would you suggest?

Thanks
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:28 AM   #39495
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I would go with the CRC.

The L3 is outdated and the Yokomo needs specific wheels + its front end might prove too complex for a noob.
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