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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 05-29-2013, 11:11 AM   #39451
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CRC, Associated, Speedmerchant, BMI, take your pick. No bad ones out there.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:47 AM   #39452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
Looking for a little help here fellas. I've been racing nitro on-road for years but our local race program was shut down due to a move by our LHS a little over 2 years ago. Another on-road racing program has gotten off the ground and they are running quite a few electric on-road classes. I'm looking into jumping into 1/12 electric on-road and I've been looking at the Xray and Serpent 1/12 kits. I can get a decent price on either one but was wondering what other manufacturers to look at that will have good parts support. Any suggestions? Looking forward to your input.

Regards,

D
I bought a Serpent S120LT and I ended up installing associated front end anyways... I would buy Associated if I were to do it all over again. I do like the look and quality of the Serpent stuff though, don't get me wrong..
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Old 05-29-2013, 12:22 PM   #39453
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First check what your LHS stocks. Then see what the local hot shoes are running. 1/12TH is very different and you WILL have questions about tires, set ups etc. Good local racers are the best source of info, and if you have the same car so much the better. That said, both cars you mentioned are good cars. Serpent may be slightly easier to get parts for, but neither is as easy as Associated or CRC.
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Old 05-30-2013, 02:06 AM   #39454
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Hi Guys,

I recently purchased the SANWA SRG HR servo for 1/12 pan car and doesn't fit my car which is the 12r5.2 Anybody else had these issues?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:10 AM   #39455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speyederjedi View Post
Looking for a little help here fellas. I've been racing nitro on-road for years but our local race program was shut down due to a move by our LHS a little over 2 years ago. Another on-road racing program has gotten off the ground and they are running quite a few electric on-road classes. I'm looking into jumping into 1/12 electric on-road and I've been looking at the Xray and Serpent 1/12 kits. I can get a decent price on either one but was wondering what other manufacturers to look at that will have good parts support. Any suggestions? Looking forward to your input.

Regards,

D
Im going to take a wild guess here and assume you are going to be running @ Als in San Antonio?? They have a good program going over there now and the 12th scale class is thriving.

Regarding kit choices, I feel that you may be heading in the wrong direction with those two. While the Xray and Serpent kits are very good, and will be competitive... they are not very popular in your neck of the woods. I do not believe that many (any?) guys run them in SA.

I would recommend one of the more common 12th kits being raced in the central TX area... CRC, TOP, or AE. My personal choice would be TOP... and while it is a bit of a biased opinion, the TOP Rebel 12 did win Stock 12th at both Carpet and Paved Nats this year.

If I were in your shoes, I would pick up the same kit as the local fast guys are running. 12th scale is a blast, but if you aren't familiar with the class, your chassis, setup, etc... it can be frustrating. Especially on asphalt. Id chat with Jim Hartnett and see what he says... I suspect he will recommend the CRC or TOP, as well.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:06 PM   #39456
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What is the difference between a Grey rear and a Grey-low rear tyre compound? Thanks.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:34 PM   #39457
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What is the difference between a Grey rear and a Grey-low rear tyre compound? Thanks.
Grey-low is a Yellow compound tire with a Grey outer ring. The grey is a little harder than the yellow and keeps the sidewall from folding over so hard. In higher bite conditions, it tends to make more sidebite and be a little more resistant to peeling.
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Old 05-31-2013, 12:14 AM   #39458
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Hi Guys,

I recently purchased the SANWA SRG HR servo for 1/12 pan car and doesn't fit my car which is the 12r5.2 Anybody else had these issues?
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Old 05-31-2013, 08:40 AM   #39459
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Originally Posted by JAKE LISZKA View Post
Hi Guys,

I recently purchased the SANWA SRG HR servo for 1/12 pan car and doesn't fit my car which is the 12r5.2 Anybody else had these issues?
That servo is a fair bit smaller than the typical "mini" servos used for 12th(Futaba 960, Jr 3650, KO 951, etc).

You are going to need to shoe-goo it in for it to work in your AE.
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Old 05-31-2013, 09:32 AM   #39460
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You are going to need to shoe-goo it in for it to work in your AE.
+1 for shoe-goo. once you mount the servo straight let the shoe-goo bond for 12h+

and if your in a rush, like your servo breaks at a big race, CA + Kicker is your best friend.
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Old 05-31-2013, 04:24 PM   #39461
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Thanks guys, mounted it to the mounting plate it came with and all works great!
Cheers
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Old 06-05-2013, 08:07 PM   #39462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamesL_71 View Post
Im going to take a wild guess here and assume you are going to be running @ Als in San Antonio?? They have a good program going over there now and the 12th scale class is thriving.

Regarding kit choices, I feel that you may be heading in the wrong direction with those two. While the Xray and Serpent kits are very good, and will be competitive... they are not very popular in your neck of the woods. I do not believe that many (any?) guys run them in SA.

I would recommend one of the more common 12th kits being raced in the central TX area... CRC, TOP, or AE. My personal choice would be TOP... and while it is a bit of a biased opinion, the TOP Rebel 12 did win Stock 12th at both Carpet and Paved Nats this year.

If I were in your shoes, I would pick up the same kit as the local fast guys are running. 12th scale is a blast, but if you aren't familiar with the class, your chassis, setup, etc... it can be frustrating. Especially on asphalt. Id chat with Jim Hartnett and see what he says... I suspect he will recommend the CRC or TOP, as well.
I bought the Serpent S120LT for something different to run and it look pretty with all the bling. I found out that its mostly a carpet car. I have asked the guys in the S120 thread if their was a setup for it on asphalt. I was told that the only guys running it on asphalt are from Spain. Also, the parts are a bit expensive. The only place I can get them from was Stormer Hobbies, where I got the car from. I do look forward to running it when I get the spare parts and time to be able to.
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Old 06-05-2013, 08:42 PM   #39463
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Running on asphalt usually requires more clearance, so the first thing to do is raise the ride height to 4.5- 5 mm depending on how smooth or bumpy your track is. Then you must not let the car drag. Asphalt is not forgiving like carpet, if the car touches down you will lose traction. You may need to run stiffer side springs or center spring to stop it dragging. We found the car actually gained grip as we stiffened it until it stopped dragging, then it began to lose grip as we went even stiffer. Experiment a bit till you find your sweet spot. You may find adding caster will calm the steering a bit. I would start with the wide front inserts, kit front springs, 4.5mm ride height, long upper arm position. 1' camber, 0 toe in both caster spacers forward. 25 wt oil, kit spring in the center shock, 80 or 90 wt in the cross shock. 4.5mm ride height. Kit side springs 4.5 mm rear ride height. Increase the stiffness of both the side and center springs one step at a time until you find the set up that works for you.
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Old 06-05-2013, 08:50 PM   #39464
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Originally Posted by CarlosG. View Post
I bought the Serpent S120LT for something different to run and it look pretty with all the bling. I found out that its mostly a carpet car. I have asked the guys in the S120 thread if their was a setup for it on asphalt. I was told that the only guys running it on asphalt are from Spain. Also, the parts are a bit expensive. The only place I can get them from was Stormer Hobbies, where I got the car from. I do look forward to running it when I get the spare parts and time to be able to.
you can get S120 specific parts from Stormer as well as Ashford and Amain.

the S120 front end is nice, and the LT got damper tubes in place of the monoshock. the only parts i would switch out would be to go with AE front and side springs. Also, use AE pivot balls if you have any trouble keeping the pod action smooth.

as for the asphalt vs carpet, i suggest you compare some other 1/12 scale with setups posted (asphalt vs carpet) and consider the differences as candidate changes.

some general changes include increased ride height, more rear droop, 2xpink/pink or lilac/pink tires, softer side springs and stiffer front springs compared to the carpet. fine tuning depends more on the local track conditions.
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Old 06-05-2013, 09:04 PM   #39465
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Lonny, my kit came with tubes. I wanted to get away from the center shock since I had that on the 12R5 that I had owned. I use to race asphalt so I know about ride height. My particulars about the setup are more like what springs to use, shock oils, and lube for the tubes? I have it built exactly like the instructions say. The only problem I had was the main chassis sat lower than the rear pod. I found that the washers that were used to hold the transponder to the chassis of the 12r5 where just thin enough to make it level and even with each other.
I want to thank you guys for the help and information you have given.
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