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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick

  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020

  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


Reflex Racing/RSD:


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Old 09-12-2003, 10:07 PM   #3931
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Im getting a Corally sp12 g3 and i was wondering if i can use a standard sized servo in it? (such as the standard Futaba servo)until i get somemoney for a micro servo..

Also any thoughts on the car?

and any suggested options/modifications to the car would be much appreciated!


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Old 09-12-2003, 10:52 PM   #3932
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It should work fine for a while. You might want to run a stiffer front spring because of the extra weight up front. But you'll want to get a micro servo as soon as possible because the extra weight is just slowing you down. But I don't really know anything bout your car. Just my .02
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Old 09-14-2003, 11:28 AM   #3933
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Default 1/12 Bodies

What bodies seem to be popular for the 1/12 scale. I bought one, I believe it's an Associated and it's pretty bad. It's thin and has some creases in it. It has no stickers and no window cover sheet. What do you guys recommend as far as manufacturer and model?
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Old 09-14-2003, 11:34 AM   #3934
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Most 1/12 scale bodies don't come with widnow masks.
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Old 09-14-2003, 12:38 PM   #3935
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or stickers! you might get 2 protoform stickers if ur lucky!

dont protoform say on their adverts that ALL bodies come with stickers and paint masks? i see false advertising! lol
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Old 09-14-2003, 04:26 PM   #3936
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Almost all 12th scale bodies do not come with decals (except for one with the companies name on it, and I mean ONE decal), and very few come with window masks, and if they do include masks, they arent that great.

As far which bodies to run... Protoform ascari, or Parma Bentley Speed 8. You only want to run lightweight bodies in 12th scale (and normally they last longer as well for osme reason), and thus they are flimsy, which is normal and fast. The ascari will last about 2-3x as long as the bentley, better lexan quality mostly.
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Old 09-14-2003, 06:55 PM   #3937
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stormperson-actually the Parma bentley is made out of crystal clear GE Lexan. Its good stuff. But why the Ascari lasts longer is a mystery to me!! Its all in the vacuum forming black magic I guess!!

I know I ran the same Speed 8 from the USTC Race in Cincinnati (Jan or feb. of this year??) till only a month ago!!! but it was pretty hosed when i retired it. I remember 4 years ago when bodies lasted me about two practice sessions and after that they were held together with tape and shoe goo!!! hahaha!!!
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Old 09-14-2003, 09:01 PM   #3938
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N/M I got it

Last edited by safaridog; 09-14-2003 at 11:21 PM.
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Old 09-15-2003, 03:59 AM   #3939
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It must be something in the molding, because parma bodies always seem brittle and fragile to me... and the parma cracks alot easier than the ascari; however the ascari is slightly thicker in the front where it cracks than the parma in all fairness.
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Old 09-15-2003, 05:59 AM   #3940
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Storm - do you remember the .030 thick lexan plate I put in the front of my suspension to hold the body up after an impact. That should help you a lot. I am still running my Parma Speed 8 bodies from the Snowbirds, and I run a lot.
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Old 09-15-2003, 07:10 AM   #3941
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I havent had problems with the front of the body as much (Although I do remember), since I put the two extra peices of lexan where the body hits the chassis. The place where I have problems with the body cracking is in the wheel wells. Although I still do run Speed 8's, since the difference between that and the ascari is a tuning difference, not one is better than the other.
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Old 09-15-2003, 07:21 AM   #3942
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stormperson-also not ragging on you at all!!! Dont want you thinkin I'm raggin on ya about the bodies. I would guess it just comes down to how the lexan is pulled over the mold. I have seen the Ascai and it looks cool and i am sure it handles well. I thought the Bentley was slammed-but this is a whole nother ball game.
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Old 09-15-2003, 09:03 AM   #3943
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here in the u.k we are not allowed to use the Ascari & the Bently

what make motors do you guys like when using 12ths
as any one used the Reedy Kr motors-are they heavy on the battery's.etc


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Old 09-15-2003, 09:57 AM   #3944
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The KR is not a 12th scale motor. Why I do not know, however I assume this because at both the paved and carpet nats, Reedy drivers only ran KR's in sedan and in 12th they ran Ti's. They just showed thier new "platnium" which is like a Ti but with quad magnets, I think will be their new 12th motor.
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Old 09-15-2003, 10:25 AM   #3945
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I am told they do not run the Kr's because they cannot make run time with them. With the new Pt's, the comm is smaller (regular size) and have standard modified stand up brushes giving more RPM's and a bit less torque and should be okay for 1/12th scale.
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