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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-11-2013, 11:22 PM   #39376
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try Stormer:

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...ode=0&showt=on
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:14 AM   #39377
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
Thanks - unfortunately no local shops carry 1/12 tires! Actually I had to dig a little to find the ones I bought online - any good online retailers you'd recommend for these? I haven't tried any sauce...but suggestions welcome! I haven't driven 1/12 since the original Plazma about 20 years ago, and tire compound wasn't much of an issue ... you could actually grab a trigger-full of throttle without fishtailing in those days
20 yrs ago they could only have dreamed about a power to weight ratio of a 4.5t on 1s

You have tons of power, with little grip
Fun concoction, but not easy to control on the best of surfaces, even with magic tires, and a world class driver

Good luck with that
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:58 AM   #39378
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Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
Hi All,

I have a new Kyosho Plazma RA with the following gear:

Motor: Team Orion Vortex VST Pro Brushless Motor (4.5T)
Battery: Team Orion Carbon Pro 6400mAh 3.7V 90C
ESC: Team Orion Vortex R10 Pro

Unfortunately the nearest carpet track is, well, not very near...so I'm looking for some new tires that will provide some more grip on the asphalt.

The first set I tried was a pair of Xceed RC "Enneti" 1/12th rears (Medium - 30 Shore) and Medium/35 Shore on the front.

Can anyone recommend an alternative compound that might give me some better traction?

Thanks!

That are some big wires man! Maybe you should look for 12AWG or 14 AWG wires. These wires can easely mess up the movement of the rear pod.

Regards Robert
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:04 AM   #39379
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The Japanese tyres tend to be the best for Asphalt. Not surprising as they do more asphalt racing with 12th than anyone else. I believe their tyres have more rubber in them. Anyway, I'd start with Speedmind 30R on the rear and either 35F or 32F on the front.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:21 AM   #39380
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1/12 action at the 2013 On Road Canadian Nationals.. Enjoy!

2013 OnRoad Canadian Nationals 1:12 A Main
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1G8drQm5hTc
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Old 03-14-2013, 06:55 PM   #39381
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Just a little heads up for Plasma Ra owners. I also posted this on the Plasma Ra fourm.

Kyosho has released some updated front suspension arms which have small dots on them. These dots indicate what side to insert the suspension balls into the arm. I guess the older arms didn't have this feature and racers were inserting them the wrong way.

So whats the problem?

Well, for some reason, Kyosho decided to mold the suspension arms under one mold. That being said, when you buy a package you'll get two right suspension arms. Ideally, it should be a left and a right. But, Kyosho thought it would be a smart idea for the user to simply flip the suspension arms to make a left and right.

FYI - I live in Japan and I have the most recent Kyosho Plasma Ra kit. This kit comes will a supplementary manual indicating the changes made to the front suspension arms.

Now, the right arm must be flipped (dot facing up). The left has the (dot facing down). Many of you will say, make sure the both dots are facing the same direction. Well, you cant. I've tried this and it results in the suspension geometry (arm sweep) to be messed up. As a result the kingpin will not fit, the kingpin angle is too severe.

So, in order for it to work, you'll have to run the (arm dots) in opposite direction from each other. Well, there's a bigger problem now. This flipping of arms has resulted in a 0.5 mm height difference between the left and right side. Also, the suspension balls are riding at different heights 0.10 mm difference. This is due to the arms being flipped and the position of the suspension ball are resting at different heights. The left suspension ball on the top of the arm is sitting 0.10 mm higher than the right. The right suspension ball on the bottom of the arm is sitting 0.10 mm lower than the left. I hope this make sense to you guys.

Trust me, I tired re-inserting the suspension balls to make them even. It doesn't work.

So, I fixed this problem by shimming the suspension balls using 0.10 mm shims on both sides. Then I put 0.5 mm shims on the right side to raise the arm to match the left arm. Everything is equal and square on.

Just to let you know, I checked everything to see if it was bent. Everything checked out perfectly fine. The chassis is not tweak, all the measurements were done on a pane of glass.
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:02 PM   #39382
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Quote:
I saw this bellcrank steering online and I just had to try it... on a brand new kit.
that is a new CRC Xti, in not one dimension setup in a manner meant by the Calandra crew.
Het DesertRat -

Any followup on this steering setup? If nothing else, it looks pretty trick. Where did you find it?

Thanks
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:38 PM   #39383
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Default Plazma RA Wiring

For sure - they make fitting the body an issue too...I'm switching to a 16 gauge to see how that goes...I'm a little nervous about re-soldering the joints on the ESC, but I'm going to give it a shot. Those were just the stock wires....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
That are some big wires man! Maybe you should look for 12AWG or 14 AWG wires. These wires can easely mess up the movement of the rear pod.

Regards Robert
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Old 03-19-2013, 12:40 PM   #39384
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Default Plazma RA

Yeah, I agree. I went with the 'Team Orion' package that included this motor, figuring Kyosho would recommend a good setup...but it is way overpowered. When I did get it running in a straight line, it was ridiculously fast...but scary. I will be looking to pick up a 'calmer' motor and perhaps use this one in a Turbo Optima Mid SE I'm restoring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
20 yrs ago they could only have dreamed about a power to weight ratio of a 4.5t on 1s

You have tons of power, with little grip
Fun concoction, but not easy to control on the best of surfaces, even with magic tires, and a world class driver

Good luck with that
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Old 03-19-2013, 07:48 PM   #39385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwindes View Post
Het DesertRat -

Any followup on this steering setup? If nothing else, it looks pretty trick. Where did you find it?

Thanks
It works, but not well enough. That bellcrank system had too much combined slop in the steering for the car to track right. It can be made to work, but is just unnecessary. A regular setup or inline is probably a better bet.

This turned out much better, not a whole lot of difference in how fast the car is though, but it was cool.
From This
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To This
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Last edited by DesertRat; 03-19-2013 at 09:11 PM.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:41 PM   #39386
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Here is my solution to companies not making yellow wheels I still have some work to do with trimming the wheel wells and making everything straight and uniform. The rest of the yellow decals still need to go on as well. It's an r5.1

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Old 03-20-2013, 03:38 AM   #39387
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I find the easiest way of trimming the b'shell is to use a compass cutter for the wheel arches (nice round wheels arches as a result) plus putting a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface, and then pushing the b'shell back and forth until the lower edge of the b'shell is nice and flat also.
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Old 03-20-2013, 03:58 AM   #39388
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Originally Posted by LonnyJ1950 View Post
+1 I think the Alien car looks interesting! I'd like to see one up close and running.
you must come to the French nats for that. There are 2 Alien car in action, and they finished first and third in the championship in stock class with 2 victory and 2 TQ in 4 races...
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Old 03-20-2013, 10:41 AM   #39389
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Originally Posted by wingman2 View Post
I find the easiest way of trimming the b'shell is to use a compass cutter for the wheel arches (nice round wheels arches as a result) plus putting a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface, and then pushing the b'shell back and forth until the lower edge of the b'shell is nice and flat also.
When using the compass to cut arches how far over tire radius do you set it to make sure it clears? Do you cut it dead center of the axle?
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:28 PM   #39390
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Quote:
Originally posted by DesertRat
It works, but not well enough. That bellcrank system had too much combined slop in the steering for the car to track right. It can be made to work, but is just unnecessary. A regular setup or inline is probably a better bet.
Thanks for the update. Sounds like my current direct setup would be better.
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