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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 03-02-2013, 02:43 PM   #39331
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But about the tools (the hex tip) you do need 1/16, 5/64, 3/32 & 1/8. Am i right?
With my tamiya cars i use 1,5mm, 2mm & 2,5mm hex tip tools.
It's that what i mean by some extra investment for new tools.
My guess is that you guys mean the thread of the screw and not the hex tip of the tools.
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:52 PM   #39332
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Thanks for the prompt responses guys. I've eliminated all those chances of causing a tweak. I looked at the car did some measurements and discovered the suspension arms are 0.5~0.7 mm difference in height.

Now here's the thing, either I'm stupid, or Kyosho has made a bit of a boo, boo. When it comes to the lower suspension arms. They've manufactured the arms so that you have to flip one of the arms to match the others angle.. Now if you don't do this it will result in messed up suspension angles and binding king pins. Also, when inserting the balls into the lower suspension arm, one ball will seat in a little higher than the other. This is due to the arms being flipped, so this also causes some issues with the front suspension tweak.

Check out the manual and see what I mean.

http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...AZMA_Ra_IM.pdf

Go to page 23.

When inserting the suspension ball you must insert where there is a small dot molded into the suspension arm. In addition, the picture shows the suspension balls neck always facing at the top of the arm. That being said, the arms are opposite to each other, which causes one ball to seat at a different height then the other.
i just got some plazma front suspension parts, and the lower arms look pretty symmetric, and no small dots on either the lower arm or the upper link. do your parts have these dots?
also, where are you measuring this 0.5-0.7mm difference? from the top of the lower arm to ground? this sounds like a bent or cracked arm, or maybe the bulkhead is bent? if so, you can check by swapping parts with new ones, or just between left and right to see which part is causing the difference.

no matter dots or no dots, you should have the pivot balls facing toward the steering block. the flat on the pivot ball should bear on the steering block.

so all assembled do you see a different gap between the steering block and the lower arm, even with the lower arm's pivot ball flat facing up?
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Old 03-02-2013, 02:59 PM   #39333
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Originally Posted by addicted2blue View Post
But about the tools (the hex tip) you do need 1/16, 5/64, 3/32 & 1/8. Am i right?
With my tamiya cars i use 1,5mm, 2mm & 2,5mm hex tip tools.
It's that what i mean by some extra investment for new tools.
My guess is that you guys mean the thread of the screw and not the hex tip of the tools.
Nope...the car is predominately 3mm screws so 2mm tip for most of the screws on the car.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:23 PM   #39334
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Hey Tony,

It seems like you have the first generation Kyosho Plasma. The second gen is the one with revamped parts that have dots them to locate what direction the pivot balls must be inserted into the arms ect.

I checked the bulkheads, checked the arms, checked everything and all seems OK.. I've taken all these measurements using digital calipers on a flat surface. Measured the bottom of the arms, and measure the top, measured to the top of the ball. Same result.

To compensate for this I used a 0.5 mm shim on the lowest side to rise it up 0.5 mm, this has helped with the issue. I very well may look into another set of bulkheads and see if it makes a difference or not.
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Old 03-02-2013, 11:06 PM   #39335
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Edward,
if you swap the bulkheads and the high side moves then the bulkhead is a problem. if you swap the arms and the high side does not move then the arms are directional.

fyi, the parts i just received from stormers and are definitely symmetric. the ones you describe sound one sided. i suppose i got old stock from stormer's, but you might just try a new set of arms. maybe the 'dot'ed arms are the first generation?
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Old 03-03-2013, 02:28 AM   #39336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V12 View Post
What car is David running these days?
I did meet him a lot of times in the past at international races but thatīs long ago.
David is running what is effectively his own car. The hardware is Associated 5.1 but all he carbon parts are his own.

Trev
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:41 AM   #39337
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Nope...the car is predominately 3mm screws so 2mm tip for most of the screws on the car.
I do find it strange cause the guy i know says that he doesn't use the 2mm tip as it doesn't fit the screw heads.
In the manual also stated the following hex head screwdrivers are needed to build the car 0,50, 0,63 (1/16), 0,78 (5/64) & 0,93 (1/8) hex head screwdrivers.
Is it possible to post the needed hex head screwdrivers for the asso?
I'm still confused about this tools mather and i really want to clear this out.
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Old 03-03-2013, 01:49 PM   #39338
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The tool set they promote in the instructions, part #1541, comes with .050, 1/16", 1.5mm, 5/64", 3/32", 2.5mm, and 3mm. 5/64" is virtually the same size as 2mm so the two are used interchangeably. It is basically a tool kit that covers all things on-road both metric and standard. Your friend who isn't using a 2mm wrench is probably using a 5/64". It is likely his 2mm is somewhat worn out and fits loosely now. The AE wrenches are good but pretty soft and they do wear out. And actually if you look at the bit for their newest set, part #1659, they list it as both a 5/64" and a 2mm wrench. Its a metric car...you'll need metric tools.

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Old 03-03-2013, 04:01 PM   #39339
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The tool set they promote in the instructions, part #1541, comes with .050, 1/16", 1.5mm, 5/64", 3/32", 2.5mm, and 3mm. 5/64" is virtually the same size as 2mm so the two are used interchangeably. It is basically a tool kit that covers all things on-road both metric and standard. Your friend who isn't using a 2mm wrench is probably using a 5/64". It is likely his 2mm is somewhat worn out and fits loosely now. The AE wrenches are good but pretty soft and they do wear out. And actually if you look at the bit for their newest set, part #1659, they list it as both a 5/64" and a 2mm wrench. Its a metric car...you'll need metric tools.

Thx for being so patient and so helpfull, this was the info i was looking for.
I've allready ordered a 12R5.2 and those inch tools cause i allready have the metric tools.
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:42 PM   #39340
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Hey Tony,

I'll try switching the bulkheads and seeing if that might be the case.

As for the suspension arms, the "dotted" ones are newly released. I guess customers were inserting the suspension balls in the wrong side of the arm. I live in Japan, and all the people here run Kyosho Ra's and have the same suspension arm setup. The ones you bought are older ones.

Cheers.
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Old 03-03-2013, 06:21 PM   #39341
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Thx for being so patient and so helpfull, this was the info i was looking for.
I've already ordered a 12R5.2 and those inch tools cause i allready have the metric tools.
Any time. Here's another thread for you with lots of good information. Besides just info on the cars and electronics there is also a lot on setup which you should find helpful. Redbullfixx has been compiling this for awhile now:

12th Scale Racing is Alive and Well in So Cal
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:38 AM   #39342
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Hey Tony,

I'll try switching the bulkheads and seeing if that might be the case.

As for the suspension arms, the "dotted" ones are newly released. I guess customers were inserting the suspension balls in the wrong side of the arm. I live in Japan, and all the people here run Kyosho Ra's and have the same suspension arm setup. The ones you bought are older ones.

Cheers.
Sorry, guess i was in disbelief that i just bought 'old' stock. it doesn't make sense that Kyosho would make the arm asymmetric and not produce a mirror version for the other side. If Kyosho did go to a one sided design, then maybe the mistake was in packaging? the package has 2 left handed or..?

If you can purchase from a local shop, maybe you can just look in the package and see if the dots are moving around between packages?

but for now it sounds like the older part is preferred.
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:09 AM   #39343
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Default Spur Gear Team Associated 12R5.2

Is anyone finding that the spur gear has tendency to wobble side to side? I've just built my new 12R5.2 and the spur gear moves from side to side? and its got me stumped on how to fix it?

Cheers Jackson
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:23 AM   #39344
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The spur is bound to wobble on any ball diff. If it wasn't, that would mean the diff plates are pinching the plastic of the spur rather than the balls, so the diff wouldn't work. Don't worry.
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Old 03-06-2013, 02:17 PM   #39345
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Originally Posted by TrevCoult View Post
David is running what is effectively his own car. The hardware is Associated 5.1 but all he carbon parts are his own.

Trev
Thanks for information. Are there any pictures of Davidīs car?
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