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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-22-2013, 11:11 AM   #39301
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Ok I'm new to 12th scale. My LHS is trying to get a 12th scale gt class going. So I bought a Schumacher Supastox. I can't seem to keep the car from going left when i hammer on the throtle down the streight. I loosend up the diff but still doing it. I run a 17.5 blinky with a 70T spur with a 28T pinion. Can anyone help the Supastox thread seems dead.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:23 AM   #39302
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Check your axle play. If you put the left side hub on tight up against the bearings the car will pull to one side due to having bearing friction on one side of the diff but none on the other side. Also check to see that the chassis is balanced left to right.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:59 AM   #39303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyD. View Post
Ok I'm new to 12th scale. My LHS is trying to get a 12th scale gt class going. So I bought a Schumacher Supastox. I can't seem to keep the car from going left when i hammer on the throtle down the streight. I loosend up the diff but still doing it. I run a 17.5 blinky with a 70T spur with a 28T pinion. Can anyone help the Supastox thread seems dead.
I'm with InspGadgt, check your axle play first. There should be small shims on the inside of the hub that ride on the inner bearing race only. Without the shim, the hub will rub on the outer bearing race and cause drag.

Also, both bearings act on the left side of the axle so if there is drag anywhere in the bearings it will cause the car to go left. Make sure your bearings spin freely and they are in alignment. Remove the pinion and spin your axle by hand by turning the spur. The whole axle should spin freely. (both tires) If you spin the spur gear and the diff side tire spins while the left tire doesn't you have drag on the hub side. Clean and lubricate bearings, make sure the bearings are seated properly in the pod.

Also, if the weight bias is heavy to one side, it will cause the diff to unload under power. Make sure your weight is as close to equal side to side.


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Old 02-22-2013, 02:24 PM   #39304
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Oops.. Seems like the discussion got quite heated but thanks for all the information.

I was planning on getting a great offer off an almost brand new S120L and lotsa of other stuff.. I knew the L is quite dated and just wanted to know if it worth the while to do a conversion or just get the latest kit, the LTX.

Because I am quite new to 12th, I would like as little hassle as possible to 'convert'. Having read most of the posts, I think I might just saved up a little more and just get the latest kit and save the hassle of doing a conversion and later missing out on parts that is required and not being able to run.

No offense to any conversion manufacturers. I think their work is awesome.
Dont sweat it, there are always a few folks that misread, misinterperet or get alittle butt hurt and then type things that thay would not say in person, its the nature of chat boards. I'm sure that you will find the LTX kit a great ride.
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Old 02-22-2013, 02:41 PM   #39305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyD. View Post
Ok I'm new to 12th scale. My LHS is trying to get a 12th scale gt class going. So I bought a Schumacher Supastox. I can't seem to keep the car from going left when i hammer on the throtle down the streight. I loosend up the diff but still doing it. I run a 17.5 blinky with a 70T spur with a 28T pinion. Can anyone help the Supastox thread seems dead.
Are the tires the same diameter? Is the chassis tweeked?
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Old 02-22-2013, 04:26 PM   #39306
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Are the tires the same diameter? Is the chassis tweeked?
Haven't been able to put it on a tweak baord yet, and yes the tires are the same diameter. I just built the car Tuesday and drove for the 1st time last night so I'm still getting the bugs out. Going to the track tonight to tune some more.
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:52 PM   #39307
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What do you true your new tires to for club racing?
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Old 02-23-2013, 12:57 PM   #39308
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I generally go 45 rears and 43 fronts. but we have a small bumpy track.
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Old 02-24-2013, 06:42 AM   #39309
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Is there a co-relation with tire diameter and lateral grip? The reason I ask is, last week I was running 46 mm front dia and 48 mm rear dia and the car was dialed. The race track is an outdoor asphalt with sugar water. As the tires began to wear down to smaller dimensions, I also noticed my laps times began fading away. I did notice the consistency was dropping as well. How can I solve this problem?
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Old 02-24-2013, 08:27 AM   #39310
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Seems you are running outdoors, so I guess tyre wear is quite severe. Next pointers I have for you:
Relation to tyre diameter and ride height, maybe your chassis or body is hitting the surface in the corners reducing your lateral grip.
If this is not the case, the next relation between diameter and lateral grip might be solved with changing your additive timing (prolonging I would say)... generally speaking the less tyre sidewall you have the less lateral grip... Additive timing and/or chassis setup can help a lot when your tyres wear down a bit. For outdoors, and I'm guessing here, you should be able to run your tyres down to 44mm or even lower before grip starts to fade away.
Let me know what tyres and additive you are using as I'm planning to give outdoors 12th a chance this summer!
cheers
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Old 02-27-2013, 05:37 PM   #39311
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does anyone rebuild the shocks with rebound?

After rebuilding my shock lastnight normal spend time getting out all the rebound that is possible

is it worth doing or is a full rebound shock a better option?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:34 PM   #39312
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I build my shocks for full rebound...old habit from before we knew anything about rebound.
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:51 PM   #39313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Is there a co-relation with tire diameter and lateral grip? The reason I ask is, last week I was running 46 mm front dia and 48 mm rear dia and the car was dialed. The race track is an outdoor asphalt with sugar water. As the tires began to wear down to smaller dimensions, I also noticed my laps times began fading away. I did notice the consistency was dropping as well. How can I solve this problem?
Did you change the gearing as the tires got smaller to keep the same roll out?
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:54 PM   #39314
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On a 1/12th I would not Use Rebound. I try and get mine down to as little as possible. I prefer the linear feel. There are merits for rebound but any time I have had rebound on my shock I have trouble with the car. either it gets twitchy or just not consistent around the track.

Could just be my style but hey you like what you like. every racer will have their "way" of building a car.

I say try both. See how they feel. then make your decision
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Old 02-27-2013, 06:56 PM   #39315
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Originally Posted by Me_MrTyson View Post
does anyone rebuild the shocks with rebound?

After rebuilding my shock lastnight normal spend time getting out all the rebound that is possible

is it worth doing or is a full rebound shock a better option?
I build mine with no rebound, as fare as I am concerned the only thing that should controll the rebound is the spring. Also rebound can fade over time thus chainging how the shock works. I feel that no rebound is a more concistant adjustment.
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