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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-21-2013, 10:58 AM   #39286
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Thanks all for the input.

So i emailed On-point about the OP105 conversion and he added that 2 extra rear standoffs, a few screws, damper tubes and the hardware to go with them( ball cups, balls and 4-3x8 set screws) are needed to complete the car.

He did not point out whether these are available on his site but... what the hell.. i might just go get a new kit since i am a 1/12 noob.

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Old 02-21-2013, 11:07 AM   #39287
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Thanks all for the input.

So i emailed On-point about the OP105 conversion and he added that 2 extra rear standoffs, a few screws, damper tubes and the hardware to go with them( ball cups, balls and 4-3x8 set screws) are needed to complete the car.

He did not point out whether these are available on his site but... what the hell.. i might just go get a new kit since i am a 1/12 noob.

You won't be disappointed
The SLX is a great kit

Wouldn't mind adding one to the collection
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:09 PM   #39288
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
You contradicted yourself...considering the Serpent front end fits the car it is hard to say that you need to buy an AE front end to make the car work.

Chicky has always clearly listed the parts that are included with his conversion kits and if you had done some research beforehand you would find that he even has a post listing the pieces needed to complete the car, depending on what you are starting with.

Such is the nature of conversion kits, they are nearly always an amalgamation of various cars/brands, depending on how you want to finish the car. Saying that you expect everything to be in the kit (despite what the website and numerous posts state) shows a failure on your part to properly research rather than any sort of "fradulent advertising".

For reference, I don't own an On-Point (although I would like to try one out).
Perhaps if you had actually read what I wrote you would be correct, I said that the chassis is drilled for an AE frontend not that you have to buy an AE frontend and I go on to say that the serpent frontend can be used so no there is no contradiction. And just where on the on-point website does he list all the additional parts needed?? Here is exactly what the OP105 kit description on the on-point site says word for word:

"On-Point Lipo Ready Racing Chassis conversion Kit for Serpent S120L, horizontal or vertical battery position capable with Damper Tube Mount. Includes chassis, top deck, 3 front stand offs, bottom plate and cross brace, top plate and top deck."

Yes it tells you what is included but makes no mention of all the additional items needed or that if your using a serpent car that many parts cannot be used in the conversion. Yes after I had bought the kit and realized that nothing was fitting together I did find a post that did mention some of the additional parts needed, but the on-point thread is 24 pages long, do you really expect that a prospective buyer should have to know to look at a post on RC tech buried in 24 pages to find that info? Would you not expect that the on-point website would and should provide that info? Paul is very much aware that info is missing as I suggested to him when all this came up over a year ago that he should update the website to give full disclouser of the additional parts that would be required. You have no idea of what your talking about and did no research yourself much less even read what I wrote before you lashed out; and I'm quite sure that if you were spending your $'s you would expect better also.

But if you really want to try out an op conversion car I have one I'll sell cheap!
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Old 02-21-2013, 01:37 PM   #39289
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But if you really want to try out an op conversion car I have one I'll sell cheap!
If he doesn't want it, I might buy it from you, save you some shipping!
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:32 PM   #39290
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Sorry but to me a serpent conversion kit implies that if you have a serpent car and buy the kit you will have all the parts needed to convert the car. That just is not so, what is not(or was not at that time) memtioned anywhere is that the serpent conversion chassie is drilled for AE parts, ie center pivot, sidelinks, and frontend. So the buyer cannot use the doner parts from a serpent car, except the frontend, because thay will not fit. Had Chicky been up front with this info and listed the needed parts I would not have bought the kit. O and also not included in the kit you have to buy the on-point standoffs seperate thay are not included in the kit but you cannot complete the conversion without them. No the on-point conversions are not a less expensive option and border on fradulent addvertising, imo if you addvertise something as a kit the buyer should be made aware of the fact that he will need parts from a different car. Because on-point does not do that I'm letting this possible buyer know of the pitfalls of an on-point serpent conversion kit.
not accurate, the serpent conversion only requires an AE center pivot. ($3?).
i consider this an improvement, not a negative. (the serpent pivot costs $12 and doesn't work as well as the AE part)

other than that, you need 2 standoffs and damper tubes if starting from a s120L.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:35 PM   #39291
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Thanks all for the input.

So i emailed On-point about the OP105 conversion and he added that 2 extra rear standoffs, a few screws, damper tubes and the hardware to go with them( ball cups, balls and 4-3x8 set screws) are needed to complete the car.

He did not point out whether these are available on his site but... what the hell.. i might just go get a new kit since i am a 1/12 noob.

you will want the damper tubes from OP, you need 2 more standoffs, the serpent ones to match the 2 you have or 2 from OP.

i like the OP parts, but for best value you should consider Stormer has S120LT's discounted to $180. the OP parts will add up to close to $140.

myself i prefer the OP conversion just to dump the serpent center pivot, and i don't care for the LT or LTX's forward shock tower contraption, it looks snazzy but it also looks like it limits electronics placement options
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:05 PM   #39292
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If he doesn't want it, I might buy it from you, save you some shipping!
I don't want it, I already own three conversion kits

I just find his reasons for critiquing the chassis ridiculous, that's all.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:22 PM   #39293
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Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I don't want it, I already own three conversion kits

I just find his reasons for critiquing the chassis ridiculous, that's all.
Thats ok I find your misquoting me ridiculous, but wait did you not say that you dont own an OP car and now you say you have three kits?? Who is contridicting themselfs now.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:27 PM   #39294
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I don't want it, I already own three conversion kits

I just find his reasons for critiquing the chassis ridiculous, that's all.
Well, I've been here before wondering why (fill in the blank) didn't come with (whatever) when it costs more than it should to include it. Most my my annoyance was not from the expense but from not having it and not being able to use what I already paid for.
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:33 PM   #39295
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not accurate, the serpent conversion only requires an AE center pivot. ($3?).
i consider this an improvement, not a negative. (the serpent pivot costs $12 and doesn't work as well as the AE part)

other than that, you need 2 standoffs and damper tubes if starting from a s120L.
Well on the op thread you list some other items also in this post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9791083-post171.html

Folks lets be clear here I'm not out on a which hunt here just providing info so that the person can make an informed decision. Also if you care to look in the op thread Paul assured me over a year ago that he would change the website and informe distributors so that new customers would be aware of the additional items needed for the OP105 kit; has'nt happened.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:33 PM   #39296
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Thats ok I find your misquoting me ridiculous, but wait did you not say that you dont own an OP car and now you say you have three kits?? Who is contridicting themselfs now.
umm, Onpoint is nice but not the only conversion kit on the market.

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
Well on the op thread you list some other items also in this post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9791083-post171.html

Folks lets be clear here I'm not out on a which hunt here just providing info so that the person can make an informed decision. Also if you care to look in the op thread Paul assured me over a year ago that he would change the website and informe distributors so that new customers would be aware of the additional items needed for the OP105 kit; has'nt happened.
please note that i asked Paul for what he "reccomended" not what was "required".

seriously, 1/12 is a little off the beaten path, do you really see joe consumer getting hoodwinked. i think the reason for so much response to your comments is that they suggest some nefarious plan to sucker newbs into buying the wrong product.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:52 PM   #39297
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Oops.. Seems like the discussion got quite heated but thanks for all the information.

I was planning on getting a great offer off an almost brand new S120L and lotsa of other stuff.. I knew the L is quite dated and just wanted to know if it worth the while to do a conversion or just get the latest kit, the LTX.

Because I am quite new to 12th, I would like as little hassle as possible to 'convert'. Having read most of the posts, I think I might just saved up a little more and just get the latest kit and save the hassle of doing a conversion and later missing out on parts that is required and not being able to run.

No offense to any conversion manufacturers. I think their work is awesome.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:44 PM   #39298
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Oops.. Seems like the discussion got quite heated but thanks for all the information.

I was planning on getting a great offer off an almost brand new S120L and lotsa of other stuff.. I knew the L is quite dated and just wanted to know if it worth the while to do a conversion or just get the latest kit, the LTX.

Because I am quite new to 12th, I would like as little hassle as possible to 'convert'. Having read most of the posts, I think I might just saved up a little more and just get the latest kit and save the hassle of doing a conversion and later missing out on parts that is required and not being able to run.

No offense to any conversion manufacturers. I think their work is awesome.
not heated, but maybe annoyed? anyways, sorry for the drama.

i don't know how much $$ you were planning to pay for the s120L, unless it was around $40 (combining this with OP upgrade of $140), then stormer's s120Lt offering is tough to beat as a starting point.

i am not that familiar with the LT vs LTX diffs, someone else needs to chime in on whether the LTX is worth the extra $90 over the LT kit.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:15 PM   #39299
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Originally Posted by Arahawak View Post
Oops.. Seems like the discussion got quite heated but thanks for all the information.

I was planning on getting a great offer off an almost brand new S120L and lotsa of other stuff.. I knew the L is quite dated and just wanted to know if it worth the while to do a conversion or just get the latest kit, the LTX.

Because I am quite new to 12th, I would like as little hassle as possible to 'convert'. Having read most of the posts, I think I might just saved up a little more and just get the latest kit and save the hassle of doing a conversion and later missing out on parts that is required and not being able to run.

No offense to any conversion manufacturers. I think their work is awesome.
If you can get an S120L with extras for a good price as your first car GET IT. the 120L is more than good for everything but winning the world championship, and is, in my experience, the easiest, most forgiving 1/12 I have ever driven. Any setup, any surface, any (reasonable) tire combo, and the 120L will let you run. It also has a great diff, it uses a side shock which is very consistent and easy to assemble, and there are no aluminum screws to strip out. It is a robust, easy car which can win.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:05 AM   #39300
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Hello everyone,

What rollout should I use for a 21.5 SP MMM, 2s, blinky mode. The track is tight and twisty and has a short straightaway.

Cheers.
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