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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-18-2013, 05:59 PM   #39271
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Thanks Chris, great report.
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Old 02-18-2013, 06:10 PM   #39272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Not sure what car, setup, or surface you're on
With BK/Y, I usually start at 43mm Fr, 45mm Rr
Unless the track is super gripy like at a big race

Sauce full front when more steering is needed, leave the sauce soak longer on the front
If even more front grip is needed, run less o.d. offset

Can also back off dual rate if it's too edgy up front, for a more balanced feel thru 8 mins

Heavier side springs, and side damper lube, camber, camber gain are helpful, but if you're happy with the feel, start with sauce, and tire offset first
Thanks. It's a scratchbuilt car running an old school front end and a damper tube/side-spring ball pivot rear-end.



I'm a little confused about side-spring and damper fluid at the moment, as the grip level is far higher than anything I've been used to before, and I'm having trouble coming to grips with where the tipping point is for the car diffing out. Sometimes it feels like I run a softer pod and I get more steering even when the car was settled, which is the opposite of my general understanding.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:27 AM   #39273
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And here's part 3 of the On-Point Racing 12th scale Pro Tips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gq00eXAkwOo

If you guy's have any requests, please let me know. I might make some more vid's

Regards Robert
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Last edited by Robert_K; 02-19-2013 at 02:40 AM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 07:59 AM   #39274
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
And here's part 3 of the On-Point Racing 12th scale Pro Tips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gq00eXAkwOo

If you guy's have any requests, please let me know. I might make some more vid's

Regards Robert
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Old 02-19-2013, 09:21 AM   #39275
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Here's a link to my FB album from the Plymouth 1/12th national held last weekend:

https://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/...0204010&type=3

That's my home club and they certainly know how to put on a good show!!
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:43 PM   #39276
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Kyosho Plasma Ra springs.

Kyosho has just recently released some new side, kingpin and damper springs for the Ra and Plasma (F1); Purple , Blue and White. A while back, Kyosho released Yellow, Green and Red tuning springs for the Ra... I'm a little confused as to why they've released another set of springs.

More tuning options i suppose?

The only difference I can see so far is the overall thickness of the wire. The P,B,W are 0.50 mm and the Y, G, R are 0.45 mm. Does the increase in wire thickness (P,B,W) mean its a slightly harder spring rate than the (Y,G,R)?

On a side note, what is the spring rate for the kit stock spring? Medium?
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Old 02-20-2013, 06:14 PM   #39277
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yes heavier wire higher rate for the same number of turns
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:21 PM   #39278
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Kyosho Plasma Ra springs.

Kyosho has just recently released some new side, kingpin and damper springs for the Ra and Plasma (F1); Purple , Blue and White. A while back, Kyosho released Yellow, Green and Red tuning springs for the Ra... I'm a little confused as to why they've released another set of springs.

More tuning options i suppose?

The only difference I can see so far is the overall thickness of the wire. The P,B,W are 0.50 mm and the Y, G, R are 0.45 mm. Does the increase in wire thickness (P,B,W) mean its a slightly harder spring rate than the (Y,G,R)?

On a side note, what is the spring rate for the kit stock spring? Medium?
F1 cars on rubber tires, can make use of the heavier side springs
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:52 PM   #39279
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Can anybody advise if I can easily upgrade a S120L to S120 LTX?

Mainly chassis...
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Old 02-20-2013, 08:59 PM   #39280
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Can anybody advise if I can easily upgrade a S120L to S120 LTX?

Mainly chassis...
Just going to throw this out there

On Point Serpent upgrade


http://www.onpointracing.com/rcproducts.php
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:08 PM   #39281
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Originally Posted by RedBullFiXX View Post
Just going to throw this out there

On Point Serpent upgrade


http://www.onpointracing.com/rcproducts.php
I see where you are going.. Cheaper to get this as a upgrade to S120L right?
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Old 02-20-2013, 09:27 PM   #39282
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I see where you are going.. Cheaper to get this as a upgrade to S120L right?
Mabey mabey not, I bought an on-point conversion kit just before the LT came out thinking and expecting it to be a full kit. What I found out is that I needed a ton of doner parts from an AE 12R5 car to complete the conversion, I was not happy at all. So before you buy any on-point "kit" be sure what else you might need before you make the mistake I did.
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Old 02-20-2013, 10:56 PM   #39283
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To the best of my knowledge
On-Point sells Conversion Kits, and hop-ups

I don't think he is in the biz of selling complete kits ?

Check with Chicky to see what if any parts you need to convert your SL into a new On-Point car

Not sure of the cost difference to an SLX parts upgrade

A bud of mine has a new SLX, and it is a nice car too
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:33 AM   #39284
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To the best of my knowledge
On-Point sells Conversion Kits, and hop-ups

I don't think he is in the biz of selling complete kits ?

Sorry but to me a serpent conversion kit implies that if you have a serpent car and buy the kit you will have all the parts needed to convert the car. That just is not so, what is not(or was not at that time) memtioned anywhere is that the serpent conversion chassie is drilled for AE parts, ie center pivot, sidelinks, and frontend. So the buyer cannot use the doner parts from a serpent car, except the frontend, because thay will not fit. Had Chicky been up front with this info and listed the needed parts I would not have bought the kit. O and also not included in the kit you have to buy the on-point standoffs seperate thay are not included in the kit but you cannot complete the conversion without them. No the on-point conversions are not a less expensive option and border on fradulent addvertising, imo if you addvertise something as a kit the buyer should be made aware of the fact that he will need parts from a different car. Because on-point does not do that I'm letting this possible buyer know of the pitfalls of an on-point serpent conversion kit.
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Old 02-21-2013, 08:56 AM   #39285
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Originally Posted by chris moore View Post
That just is not so, what is not(or was not at that time) memtioned anywhere is that the serpent conversion chassie is drilled for AE parts, ie center pivot, sidelinks, and frontend. So the buyer cannot use the doner parts from a serpent car, except the frontend, because thay will not fit. Had Chicky been up front with this info and listed the needed parts I would not have bought the kit.
You contradicted yourself...considering the Serpent front end fits the car it is hard to say that you need to buy an AE front end to make the car work.

Chicky has always clearly listed the parts that are included with his conversion kits and if you had done some research beforehand you would find that he even has a post listing the pieces needed to complete the car, depending on what you are starting with.

Such is the nature of conversion kits, they are nearly always an amalgamation of various cars/brands, depending on how you want to finish the car. Saying that you expect everything to be in the kit (despite what the website and numerous posts state) shows a failure on your part to properly research rather than any sort of "fradulent advertising".

For reference, I don't own an On-Point (although I would like to try one out).
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