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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 02-16-2013, 08:26 AM   #39256
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Okay guys, I just need a little confirmation on what might be causing the tweak on my 1/12 scale. I have a eagle racing tweak bar station and I put my car onto the station with just bare rims front and rear.. The laser beam hits the marking indicating its tweaked (heavier) on the right hand side (passenger side) of the chassis. I can easily confirm this by just lifting the front wheels individually and noticing the difference in weight. All this was done with both the damper tubes on and off and still yielded the same results.

The only way I can get the chassis to become tweak free is to (pre-load the front left suspension) by adding 2 shims underneath the left front kingpin.

So, that being said. I've gone over the video that Robert posted earlier, great video by the way. Everything is true and tweak free (per Robert's video), front suspension is bind free and all springs are equal length.. yada yada, yada. Side springs are touching equally.

However, there is one thing I am not sure about. And this is electronics placement....
Right now I have LRP SCXX, Hyperion servo and KO Propo Kr-411 recevier. Both the receiver and SCXX power cap, 8 grams of weight and servo are on the left side. The LRP SCXX on the right. The wiring is neat and tidy and the motor (16 awg) and sensor wires are running down the center line of the chassis.

I'm wondering if I should shift the LRP SCXX onto the left side and receiver and SCXX power cap to the right hand side.

What are your thoughts.

I've eliminated any possible chassis tweak or suspension tweak. The car is relatively new, maybe 1 month or more old. No serious hits either.
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Old 02-16-2013, 08:52 AM   #39257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
Okay guys, I just need a little confirmation on what might be causing the tweak on my 1/12 scale. I have a eagle racing tweak bar station and I put my car onto the station with just bare rims front and rear.. The laser beam hits the marking indicating its tweaked (heavier) on the right hand side (passenger side) of the chassis. I can easily confirm this by just lifting the front wheels individually and noticing the difference in weight. All this was done with both the damper tubes on and off and still yielded the same results.

The only way I can get the chassis to become tweak free is to (pre-load the front left suspension) by adding 2 shims underneath the left front kingpin.

So, that being said. I've gone over the video that Robert posted earlier, great video by the way. Everything is true and tweak free (per Robert's video), front suspension is bind free and all springs are equal length.. yada yada, yada. Side springs are touching equally.

However, there is one thing I am not sure about. And this is electronics placement....
Right now I have LRP SCXX, Hyperion servo and KO Propo Kr-411 recevier. Both the receiver and SCXX power cap, 8 grams of weight and servo are on the left side. The LRP SCXX on the right. The wiring is neat and tidy and the motor (16 awg) and sensor wires are running down the center line of the chassis.

I'm wondering if I should shift the LRP SCXX onto the left side and receiver and SCXX power cap to the right hand side.

What are your thoughts.

I've eliminated any possible chassis tweak or suspension tweak. The car is relatively new, maybe 1 month or more old. No serious hits either.
I had and integy tweak board and the laser was not set correctly. When I put both bars on a flat table the laser needed to be adjusted to be on the center line. I'm not sure of the one you have but I'd check that. Also check to make the the moveable part of the tweak station is balanced and not heavy to one side. If the batteries and laser are on one side most likely the car will read heavy on one side especially if you have soft side springs on the car.

Other things will be balance the pod and chassis separate and make sure you lower suspension arms are the same height on a flat table. Back off the side springs and check the front droop is the same by looking at the space between the steering block and lower arm, The gap should be equal.
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Old 02-16-2013, 03:40 PM   #39258
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There are a few ideas I have that may help, but if preloading one side just a bit solves it this sounds like it may be a blown front spring. I once wound up with a spring nearly a full millimeter shorter than the other.... I didn't know that was possible.
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Old 02-17-2013, 09:44 AM   #39259
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And Part 2 is on: This is about building the diff. The last part will have numerous information and tips.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIYBed6VmNw

Regards Robert
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:40 AM   #39260
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Default Which body for 1/12

Which body for 1/12

It would be great if guys that know a lot about the various bodies available posted to that thread. Search engines direct me to it but the info is lacking.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:28 AM   #39261
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Is the countersink a 100 degree angle for all 1/12th cars? Will this bit work or is there a better one? I wonder if Ace has them?

http://www.ustool.com/store/cart.php...t_detail&p=860
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:34 AM   #39262
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100* counter sinks are typically used for cars that use 8-32 screws to bolt the front end on...and not all of them use 100* so you have to be sure you have the right one. CRC cars prior to the Xti used a 100* counter sink for the front end but no longer do. AE cars used to as well but they've gone all metric and to smaller screws on the front end. The only car I can think of that might still use them are the Speed Merchant cars.
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:42 AM   #39263
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So a 4-40 would be 82* and a 3mm 90*?
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:56 PM   #39264
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I just use 82* in general...seems to work. But if you want the exact right one it sounds like you are right according to this:

http://www.electroimpact.com/company/QMS-0003.pdf
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Old 02-18-2013, 01:27 AM   #39265
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I'm driving 10.5 blinky on a medium grip track. I like the way the black and yellow combination feels, it's very stable and easy to drive. I was using a magenta magenta combination but felt it was gumming up too much. The issue I now have though is that I'm struggling a bit for mid-corner steering. What do you guys recommend?
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Old 02-18-2013, 04:29 AM   #39266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pmes View Post
So a 4-40 would be 82* and a 3mm 90*?
That's correct. You can often get by using a metric (90 degree) screw in an 82 degree hole, but don't try a 82 degree screw (like a 4-40) in a 90 degree hole, or the graphite will probably delaminate.
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:27 AM   #39267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
I'm driving 10.5 blinky on a medium grip track. I like the way the black and yellow combination feels, it's very stable and easy to drive. I was using a magenta magenta combination but felt it was gumming up too much. The issue I now have though is that I'm struggling a bit for mid-corner steering. What do you guys recommend?
Not sure what car, setup, or surface you're on
With BK/Y, I usually start at 43mm Fr, 45mm Rr
Unless the track is super gripy like at a big race

Sauce full front when more steering is needed, leave the sauce soak longer on the front
If even more front grip is needed, run less o.d. offset

Can also back off dual rate if it's too edgy up front, for a more balanced feel thru 8 mins

Heavier side springs, and side damper lube, camber, camber gain are helpful, but if you're happy with the feel, start with sauce, and tire offset first
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Old 02-18-2013, 07:28 AM   #39268
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looking to upgrade my tean ass. 12 r5.2 center shock anyone can tell me whats a better shock to use... thanks
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Old 02-18-2013, 02:32 PM   #39269
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new to 12 scale.
options for cars are Serpent 120ltx, CRC Xti, and a new HB12x

thoughts and advice appreciated. - will be asphalt this year, hopefully carpet next year.
thankyou
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Old 02-18-2013, 05:10 PM   #39270
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Default Spashett and Stiles win at BRCA 1/12th Scale Nationals Round 4

Round 4 of the 2012/13 BRCA 1/12th Scale Nationals took place at Plymouth in the southwest of the UK last weekend. It had been 2 months since the last national so some of the drivers were a little rusty, although many had been racing at local club or regional events in January.



Saturday

On Saturday the main 1/12th scale class is for 10.5 blinky. David Spashett dominated proceedings as he had at the first two rounds of the championship by taking a relatively comfortable TQ by 5 seconds. David benefited from a first corner pileup and cruised to an easy win in the A final by the same margin as he had in qualifying. Mark Stiles qualified alongside David on the front row, but was hit from behind at the start and dropped to 8th on the first lap. Despite that, a spirited drive through the pack saw him finish a commendable 3rd behind his CRC team mate Mick Farrell. Unfortunately Zak Smith and Andy Murray were disqualified from the final results after failing to take their cars to technical inspection after the race. Jim Spencer won a competitive B final which saw little more than 1.5 laps covering the top-9 cars.

View the 10.5 stock A final here; http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=IMFy9uYKoUY



In the slower 17.5 blinky class, former 19 turn British champion Keith Robertson dominated, taking an easy TQ and win. Keith almost lapped the field in the final, with Russ Giles the only driver to stay within a lap of Keith. Pete Winton finished 3rd.

In the GT12 class for Mardave V12 and Schumacher Supastox cars, Adam Catchpole topped the qualifying list by 2 seconds with his Mardave, but the rest of the A final was filled with Schumacher cars. However, the final belonged to Schumacher with Chris Ashton taking a narrow victory after a superb drive from 2nd on the grid. Catchpole finished 2nd ahead of fellow North-Eastern driver Peter Craig. These three were more than a whole lap ahead of the 4th placed car.



Sunday

Sundayís main class is 1/12th scale open modified. Despite much more power and cars that are more difficult to drive cleanly, qualifying was much closer than in the 10.5 class the previous day. Matt Varah was racing at his first 1/12th scale national for almost a year with a brand new Yokomo car. He was smooth and consistent throughout the day and took his first ever BRCA national TQ. He was pushed hard all day by Mark Stiles, Chris Kerswell and David Spashett, with the 4 drivers separated by less than 2 seconds after qualifying.

In the A final Varah led for the first 10 laps and built a lead of 2.5 seconds over Chris Kerswell, who passed Mark Stiles on the first lap. However, a slight lapse in concentration at the fastest point on the infield led to the lead Yokomo taking a trip into the boards requiring a marshal. This gifted the lead to the LRP/Dynamite powered Serpent of Chris Kerswell.

At the 3 minute Mark, Chris held a 4 second lead over Mark Stilesí LRP/Reedy powered CRC. However, Mark was turning fast laps after a scrappy start and immediately started to close the gap. By 6 minutes, the pair were circulating in formation and Mark was looking for a way past and trying to force a mistake from Chris. Chris drove superbly to hold his line and soak up the pressure, with both drivers on the ragged edge. The race for 3rd between Zak Smith, Matt Varah and David Spashett was ĺ of a lap behind at this stage.

As the leaders started their last lap they were right behind David Spashett, who attempted to move over to be lapped. However, some confusion and possibly a small mistake from one or more of the drivers led to David and Chris making slight contact exiting a hairpin. A gap of 2 car widths opened up and Stiles was perfectly positioned to take advantage. He slipped into the lead which he held for the remainder of the lap despite a failed attempt by Kerswell to re-pass him at the end of the straight. Zak Smith finished 3rd for Associated/Reedy after getting past the battling Varah and Spashett in the closing stages.

View the open modified A final video here; http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=gaPa7o1bo5I



In the 10.5 sport class the Serpent of Gavin Clinch set the early pace, but Keith Robertson toppled him from the head of the field in round 3 of qualifying. Keith went on to win the A final from Richard Hicklinís Serpent and the Associated of Jim Spencer.



In GT12, Chris Ashton once again came from 2nd on the grid to win the A final, but this time it was another Schumacher on pole driven by Sam Clifton. Sam was 3rd on an all-Schumacher podium, just behind Peter Craig.

Full results, all final videos and championship positions will be posted on the BRCA website at http://www.brca.org/index.php?q=cont...nationals/1462

The penultimate round of the championship takes place at Stafford in March after Oulu in Finland plays host to the EFRA European Championships.
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