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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-18-2013, 09:08 PM   #39106
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Default Pinion Gear Selection for Plazma RA

Hi All,
I am looking for some recommendations for a pinion gear for my new Plazma RA. Here is the configuration I'll be running, primarily on pavement:

Spur Gear: 64P-94T
Motor: ORION VORTEX 3.5T
ESC: ORION VORTEX R10
Battery: Orion Carbon Pro LiPo 6400mAh 90C 3.7V

Thanks!
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Old 01-19-2013, 04:47 AM   #39107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
I just assert that it's not worth it to worry about, really the motor plate has a very small surface area and an even smaller heat conducitve contact patch with the motor...
The cooling of the motor is done by airflow through and around the motor itself, the motor plate might be worth two degrees. This isn't to say it doesn't do some good, but if somebody ever tells you that switching to a different motor plate dropped ten degrees on the motor they're probably incorrect.
I wouldn't expect 10 degrees C either. But I'll still take the 2 degrees C!
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:39 AM   #39108
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Default ESC / Motor

Hi everyone,

I have been involved in 1/12 for a couple of years now with my kids running an associated and a xray car. I am now thinking about getting a Serpent S120 LTX for myself.

My question is, can I get a recommondation from everyone on best ESC / Motor for this class. I was going to go with the D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla but I guess not now with ruling from ROAR. My kids run the Hobbywing 1S ESC w/ Reedy Sonic 17.5 motors. Wondering if there might be something better I may have overlooked.

Thanks for the feedback, love this forum!
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:18 PM   #39109
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Just getting into 1/12th again gonna be running a bmi db12r and looking for some gearing advice i'm running a murfdogg 17.5 with a lrp sxx stock spec v2 esc running max boost and timing not sure about tire diameter but it'll be the crc tires straight out of the box. Any help on spur and pinion size would be great thanks alot.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:27 PM   #39110
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Originally Posted by tnewlon View Post
Hi everyone,

I have been involved in 1/12 for a couple of years now with my kids running an associated and a xray car. I am now thinking about getting a Serpent S120 LTX for myself.

My question is, can I get a recommondation from everyone on best ESC / Motor for this class. I was going to go with the D3.5 17.5 Maxzilla but I guess not now with ruling from ROAR. My kids run the Hobbywing 1S ESC w/ Reedy Sonic 17.5 motors. Wondering if there might be something better I may have overlooked.

Thanks for the feedback, love this forum!

The HW 1S speedo is the best blinky or boosted speedo running now...its also the cheapest that comes with a built in booster.

Reedy Sonic, Thunder Power w/Green rotor or Revtech Maxzilla 17.5's are all excellent.
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Old 01-21-2013, 12:34 PM   #39111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justin33 View Post
Just getting into 1/12th again gonna be running a bmi db12r and looking for some gearing advice i'm running a murfdogg 17.5 with a lrp sxx stock spec v2 esc running max boost and timing not sure about tire diameter but it'll be the crc tires straight out of the box. Any help on spur and pinion size would be great thanks alot.
Run a roll out of 100mm in 17.5. That's a 56 pinion with a 76 spur with 43mm tires. Temp you motor after 2 min and gear up or down to stay lower than ~155 deg F. If you are at 100mm roll out and the motor is cool bump up the timing 5 deg at a time until you are around ~150deg.

Check your lap times as gearing up or increasing timing with no lap time improvement means you are over geared or over timed. You may never get to 150 deg if the room is cold.

If you are running on carpet cut your tires to 41.5mm F/43mm rear or your car will be traction rolling/lifting/diffing out.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:00 PM   #39112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sundevil67 View Post
Hi All,
I am looking for some recommendations for a pinion gear for my new Plazma RA. Here is the configuration I'll be running, primarily on pavement:

Spur Gear: 64P-94T
Motor: ORION VORTEX 3.5T
ESC: ORION VORTEX R10
Battery: Orion Carbon Pro LiPo 6400mAh 90C 3.7V

Thanks!
I would start with a 24 pinion. If you post your speedo settings I can probably get you closer to what I am running. I am also running Orion R10 and a Orion 3.5.

Steve Dunn
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:09 PM   #39113
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Default Tires

Where can I get unmounted / untrued tires? Buying sets of mounted/trued tires gets $$$$. Thanks
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:10 PM   #39114
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Any track is doing vintage 1/12 racing? You know, 4 cell brushed, hehe...
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:11 PM   #39115
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Originally Posted by tnewlon View Post
Where can I get unmounted / untrued tires? Buying sets of mounted/trued tires gets $$$$. Thanks
these days - in the end - you'll end up paying almost as much as you would for mounted/trued tires. Mainly due to the premium that's charged for the exotic foam compounds being used these days and how few people sell those compounds in unmounted donuts.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:17 PM   #39116
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Originally Posted by Justin33 View Post
Just getting into 1/12th again gonna be running a bmi db12r and looking for some gearing advice i'm running a murfdogg 17.5 with a lrp sxx stock spec v2 esc running max boost and timing not sure about tire diameter but it'll be the crc tires straight out of the box. Any help on spur and pinion size would be great thanks alot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
Run a roll out of 100mm in 17.5. That's a 56 pinion with a 76 spur with 43mm tires. Temp you motor after 2 min and gear up or down to stay lower than ~155 deg F. If you are at 100mm roll out and the motor is cool bump up the timing 5 deg at a time until you are around ~150deg.

Check your lap times as gearing up or increasing timing with no lap time improvement means you are over geared or over timed. You may never get to 150 deg if the room is cold.

If you are running on carpet cut your tires to 41.5mm F/43mm rear or your car will be traction rolling/lifting/diffing out.
NOOOOO, Do NOT go to 100mm of rollout in BOOSTED 17.5, the car will be a dog or burn up. If you have the murfdog 17.5, which I think is the same as a Reedy 17.5, and the LRP Stock Spec V2 ESC at full song on boost, gear about 70mm of rollout with neutral timing on the endbell, whatever comes as stock and reads zero. Set Torque/Feel at about a 3 or 4, five really only generates more heat, and in order to get more boost into the motor you will have to gear DOWN, not up, to get more boost as the LRP boost is RPM based, more RPM means more boost. I have run nearly this exact combination of ESC settings and spec motor, and it can run hard and pull RPM a long way, but it's not intuitive as saying 'gearing up gives you more heat and top end speed'.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:22 PM   #39117
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
NOOOOO, Do NOT go to 100mm of rollout in BOOSTED 17.5, the car will be a dog or burn up. If you have the murfdog 17.5, which I think is the same as a Reedy 17.5, and the LRP Stock Spec V2 ESC at full song on boost, gear about 70mm of rollout with neutral timing on the endbell, whatever comes as stock and reads zero. Set Torque/Feel at about a 3 or 4, five really only generates more heat, and in order to get more boost into the motor you will have to gear DOWN, not up, to get more boost as the LRP boost is RPM based, more RPM means more boost. I have run nearly this exact combination of ESC settings and spec motor, and it can run hard and pull RPM a long way, but it's not intuitive as saying 'gearing up gives you more heat and top end speed'.
So what's a good pinion and spur with 43mm tires to get a 70mm rollout?
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:41 PM   #39118
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42x81 comes pretty close. Get a rollout app for your phone, I think it might even be free.
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Old 01-21-2013, 01:52 PM   #39119
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Heres a great one for android

https://play.google.com/store/apps/d...eamusoft.gears
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:09 PM   #39120
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Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
NOOOOO, Do NOT go to 100mm of rollout in BOOSTED 17.5, the car will be a dog or burn up. If you have the murfdog 17.5, which I think is the same as a Reedy 17.5, and the LRP Stock Spec V2 ESC at full song on boost, gear about 70mm of rollout with neutral timing on the endbell, whatever comes as stock and reads zero. Set Torque/Feel at about a 3 or 4, five really only generates more heat, and in order to get more boost into the motor you will have to gear DOWN, not up, to get more boost as the LRP boost is RPM based, more RPM means more boost. I have run nearly this exact combination of ESC settings and spec motor, and it can run hard and pull RPM a long way, but it's not intuitive as saying 'gearing up gives you more heat and top end speed'.
Sorry, I missed the Boost part. All we run around here is blinky.
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