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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-12-2013, 11:47 AM   #39076
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There's something zen-like about assembling a new 1/12 kit, the parts are all new and shiny, no scars in the chassis or a speck of dust, I need to take a picture before it's gone

It's strange, assembling offroad stuff or touring cars is the exact opposite. For instance, you might actually need the instructions to assemble one of those
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:11 PM   #39077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
This is what I ended with:

Setup 1:

12R5.2
HW 1S ESC
Futaba 9650
GM 10.5 motor
RX451 receiver
BA005 body

Setup 2:

CRC XTi
HW 1S ESC
Futaba 9650
LRP X11 10.5
RX451 receiver
body?

Lipos: 4x Orion 6400 90C, 1x SMC 6000, 1xCRC 5400
Tires: 6 complete sets of magenta front, pink rear and once they're worn out I'll see
Radios: M11X

Is everything ok? Just need to decide for the gearing now and I should be good to go. Everything was bought used but in like new condition. Took me 3 weeks to find everything but now I'm done
Looks great, just fix a BA005 Body for the CRC and your done?

Regards Robert
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:02 PM   #39078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
This is what I ended with:

Setup 1:

12R5.2
HW 1S ESC
Futaba 9650
GM 10.5 motor
RX451 receiver
BA005 body

Setup 2:

CRC XTi
HW 1S ESC
Futaba 9650
LRP X11 10.5
RX451 receiver
body?

Lipos: 4x Orion 6400 90C, 1x SMC 6000, 1xCRC 5400
Tires: 6 complete sets of magenta front, pink rear and once they're worn out I'll see
Radios: M11X

Is everything ok? Just need to decide for the gearing now and I should be good to go. Everything was bought used but in like new condition. Took me 3 weeks to find everything but now I'm done
I have all of the batteries you have listed and from my experience and others i no, i would look at other brands.
Both my Orion and Crc packs swelled and lost power in the first handful of charges.I switched to Reedy and Revtech and they are great.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-37V-6800mAh

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5C-37V-6800mAh
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:21 PM   #39079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
Looks great, just fix a BA005 Body for the CRC and your done?

Regards Robert
Yes! This said my girlfriend prefers the AMR12. She will have a Corally SP12X US too, new in the box.



She fell in love with the car but it's a T-bar so we will need to see if we can adapt lipos on it. We sold three cars to drive in 1/12

I'm looking for the gearing right now, I'm having headaches with our 10.5 motors on such a small track
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:23 PM   #39080
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No9 View Post
I have all of the batteries you have listed and from my experience and others i no, i would look at other brands.
Both my Orion and Crc packs swelled and lost power in the first handful of charges.I switched to Reedy and Revtech and they are great.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-37V-6800mAh

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...5C-37V-6800mAh
Thanks for this, I got them for very cheap so I might sell them if needed.

Any other input about Orion lipos?
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:55 PM   #39081
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Can anyone help me on a good 1/12 scale competition car? is the speed merchant or the tamiya that much better the the crc xti? thank you
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:45 PM   #39082
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As has been stated before on this thread and many others, there are no 'bad' 1/12 scale kits... except maybe the Tamiya because in order to get the best Tamiya 1/12 car you need to scrap the whole kit and get all the option parts.
Bruce Carbone from Speedmerchant and Frank Calandra of CRC are two of the most knowledgeable RC racer and builders I have had the honor of meeting. The cubic effort they put into their craft is really something.
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:56 PM   #39083
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Does anyone know if CRC made a kit for converting the T Fource to link specs? Or, if not, what is needed, and if it would be worthwhile doing?

I figure CRC being early adopters of link might have thought ahead with teh T Fource
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:01 AM   #39084
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Do you guys run 64dp or 48dp?

Why?
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Old 01-13-2013, 05:34 AM   #39085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Do you guys run 64dp or 48dp?

Why?
64do. finer adjustment of gear ratio because it is also subjected to tire wear. beside, most of the car kit is shipped with a 64dp spur.
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Old 01-13-2013, 06:00 AM   #39086
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
64do. finer adjustment of gear ratio because it is also subjected to tire wear. beside, most of the car kit is shipped with a 64dp spur.
Ok this is what I ended with about the gearing ratios.

I'll be running a 10.5 motor in blinky on a small technical track with medium worn tires to begin with.

With little help I was considering a 60mm to 55mm rollout (tell me what do you think). I considered the wear of tires and chose pinions so that I can get 60mm rollout when tires are new (45mm diameter) and 55mm when tires are used (42mm).

The Corally has a 98t spur, the AE a 96t spur and the CRC a 80t.

I used this site http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
and ended with a 41t pinion for the Corally, 42t for the AE and 34t for the CRC.

Just tell me if I'm doing something wrong

There is a last question I try to figure out:
Is there any advantage of running a smaller spur with a smaller pinion rather than a bigger spur with a bigger pinion when both give the same rollout?

Do you run the stock spurs on your cars? Or is it better to run a diff with more balls (with xenon vss spurs for example)?
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Last edited by Pulse_; 01-13-2013 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 01-13-2013, 07:16 AM   #39087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
There is a last question I try to figure out:
Is there any advantage of running a smaller spur with a smaller pinion rather than a bigger spur with a bigger pinion when both give the same rollout?
There was a similar discussion a few weeks/months ago on this topic.
I think the conclusion is to run as big as a spur if possible to move the motor forward for balance reason.

For me, I run in an outdoor track, so, I keep the spur to be small to increase the ground clearance for the gear. This is in case of small stones on the track.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Do you run the stock spurs on your cars? Or is it better to run a diff with more balls (with xenon vss spurs for example)?
I run Yokomo R12 which come with xenon spur. But I run Kimbrough because of the diff cover. Kimbrough spur can have a optional diff cover to protect again dirt so, I don't need to rebuild my diff often.

see http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/s...ategory_id=216
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:18 AM   #39088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ongbenghui View Post
There was a similar discussion a few weeks/months ago on this topic.
I think the conclusion is to run as big as a spur if possible to move the motor forward for balance reason.

For me, I run in an outdoor track, so, I keep the spur to be small to increase the ground clearance for the gear. This is in case of small stones on the track.



I run Yokomo R12 which come with xenon spur. But I run Kimbrough because of the diff cover. Kimbrough spur can have a optional diff cover to protect again dirt so, I don't need to rebuild my diff often.

see http://kimbroughracingproducts.com/s...ategory_id=216
thanks, we haven't many outdoor tracks that are clean enough for 12th scale around here, it must be great! Do you have any pic or vid of your track?

good to know for the gears, I'll start with 41/96 on the AE, 42/98 on the Corally and 34/80 on the CRC to begin in 10.5 blinky to have the same roll out (55 to 60mm) on each car

I'll be using PRS pinions with original spurs to start with and upgrade to Kimbrough, PRS or even Xenon spurs in the future

What tire traction compound do you recommend on carpet with magenta/ pink tires and medium to low grip track?
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Old 01-13-2013, 03:03 PM   #39089
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Just thought i would share a video of 10.5 blinky racing at our track in Australia.
Its the only indoor carpet track in the country and is only 3 months old .

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.
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Old 01-13-2013, 09:50 PM   #39090
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This will all depend on the size of your track. We run on carpet at 40'x40' track (this is a small technical track) in 17.5 blinky w/ my Serpent S120LT I am at around 78 for a rollout whereas the two faster guys are 82. We are averaging around 43-44 laps per 5min race. I am using 44/80 for gearing. Where as the CRC guys are 44/76. I am going to try 44/77 next weekends race and see what happens.

Last year when I ran open I ran 10.5 w/ boost @40/80 whereas the fastest guys were 8.5. I was .4 seconds slower...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
Ok this is what I ended with about the gearing ratios.

I'll be running a 10.5 motor in blinky on a small technical track with medium worn tires to begin with.

With little help I was considering a 60mm to 55mm rollout (tell me what do you think). I considered the wear of tires and chose pinions so that I can get 60mm rollout when tires are new (45mm diameter) and 55mm when tires are used (42mm).

The Corally has a 98t spur, the AE a 96t spur and the CRC a 80t.

I used this site http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create
and ended with a 41t pinion for the Corally, 42t for the AE and 34t for the CRC.

Just tell me if I'm doing something wrong

There is a last question I try to figure out:
Is there any advantage of running a smaller spur with a smaller pinion rather than a bigger spur with a bigger pinion when both give the same rollout?

Do you run the stock spurs on your cars? Or is it better to run a diff with more balls (with xenon vss spurs for example)?
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