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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-10-2013, 04:31 PM   #39046
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what are the most popular bodies for small technical tracks?
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:54 PM   #39047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
what are the most popular bodies for small technical tracks?
for more steering i like the parma speed8exp or the blackart(crc) R8

although lately i have been running the blackart R10 and like it too.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:11 PM   #39048
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for more steering i like the parma speed8exp or the blackart(crc) R8

although lately i have been running the blackart R10 and like it too.
I found on more technical stuff that the Bomb'R and Speed 8 had a lot more steering than the R8 which was better for higher speed layouts.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:24 AM   #39049
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thanks! on what type of tracks do you use the AMR12 and BA005?

Is there any body that feels more neutral and easy to drive for a beginner?

Here is my track:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6d4A7e1w9Xc
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:08 AM   #39050
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
what are the most popular bodies for small technical tracks?
I've written and detailed explanation about the most popular body's further back on this threat. For really twisty track's I think Black Art BA002 (R8C) and Black Art BA005 are really good!

Regards Robert
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:52 AM   #39051
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Originally Posted by Robert_K View Post
I've written and detailed explanation about the most popular body's further back on this threat. For really twisty track's I think Black Art BA002 (R8C) and Black Art BA005 are really good!

Regards Robert
I'll try to find it, not easy in a 2600 pages thread
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:31 AM   #39052
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This one http://www.rctech.net/forum/10131024-post37479.html
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:24 AM   #39053
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awesome, thanks!

Robert, can you give us a feedback about the BA005? You said "you would come back on this one"
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Last edited by Pulse_; 01-11-2013 at 09:17 AM.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:57 AM   #39054
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The Mohawk is a neutral feeling body with good lateral stability. I used it in stock and mod at the IIC and it was good but I think it made the front end of shorter wheelbase cars (my Gen-XL) light at speed because it doesn't have an aggressive front profile and the rear kickup is considerable... I just don't appreciate high speed push. To be honest, I think I will be running Bomb-R's for the forseeable future on my XL, but my Altered Ego is a longer wheelbase car so the Mohawk may be perfect for it.
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:34 AM   #39055
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How is the parma EE1 compared to crc or proto- bodies?
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:30 AM   #39056
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For a description from the mfg Blackart...

http://www.blackart-racing.eu/products.html

Quote:
BA004 Bombīr
Designed for the new bodyshell dimension rules of EFRA

the Bombīr have a little bit less steering than the R8c but way more downforce. The best choice for the European 10.5 stock class, also great for 13.5 when more downforce is needed.

Since on the market, the Bombīr wins all European Stock titles in a row.
Quote:
BA002 R8c
The R8c is the ultimate choice for the 17.5 and 13.5 class. A lot of steering and a stable rear is the key for any stock class racing. Wins all major Stock races in USA since 2008.

Also a great asphalt body for 13.5 and Modified. The R8c won the last IFMAR Worlds on asphalt.
Quote:
BA005 Black Market -aka Mohawk-
The killer body for Modified!

This body is great for higher speed 1:12th racing. Stable with precise steering. An excellent choice when a smooth cornering body is needed.
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:30 PM   #39057
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I have been using the Blitz p12 body for a few weeks now and i really like it,it is very stable and has alot of off power steering .
It seems to be very poised in low speed corners but at the same time reacts quickly in high speed cornering with out feeling nervous or twitchy.
Ive been running it in 10.5 blinky .
http://www.team-titan.com.tw/b-60902_v2.html
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:43 PM   #39058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by No9 View Post
I have been using the Blitz p12 body for a few weeks now and i really like it,it is very stable and has alot of off power steering .
It seems to be very poised in low speed corners but at the same time reacts quickly in high speed cornering with out feeling nervous or twitchy.
Ive been running it in 10.5 blinky .
http://www.team-titan.com.tw/b-60902_v2.html
How much roll out do you have in 10.5 blinky?

I would like to start with about 62mm roll out but have no idea what gearing I could use to achieve this

It's getting much clearer for the body choice, the BA004 - Bomb R sounds like the perfect body for 10.5 blinky but I'm wondering if it's as smooth to drive compared to a BA005 or AMR12. A body that provides massive downforce can also loose it more violently in slower sections, no? Doesn't the downforce make the car less predictable?
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:21 PM   #39059
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
How much roll out do you have in 10.5 blinky?

I would like to start with about 62mm roll out but have no idea what gearing I could use to achieve this

It's getting much clearer for the body choice, the BA004 - Bomb R sounds like the perfect body for 10.5 blinky but I'm wondering if it's as smooth to drive compared to a BA005 or AMR12. A body that provides massive downforce can also loose it more violently in slower sections, no? Doesn't the downforce make the car less predictable?
61.5mm roll out can be achieved with a 41 pinion, 88 spur and 42mm rear tires.

The formula is:

Diameter x 3.14 (pi) = Circumference
42mm x 3.141 = 131.88mm

Spur gear size / Pinion size = Gear ratio
88/42=2.095
88/41=2.146

Circumference / Gear Ratio = Roll out
131.88/2.095=62.95mm
131.88/2.146=61.45mm

I run the Protoform AMR all the time. I run 13.5 Blinky or 13.5 Boosted (faster than 10.5 Blinky) depending on where I race.

I think bodies are only a really big deal in low power classes like 17.5 and 13.5 blinky. There you have to keep the car free from bogging as much as possible to maintain momentum so lower downforce bodies and synthetic tires help. If I ran 17.5 i'd run the black art R8C with Black F and Yellow R tires. This would work for 13.5 blinky on a very high traction track too.

In 13.5 Blinky or Boosted, 10.5 Blinky or Boosted and Mod you need more downforce to maintain traction in the corners at higher speeds and as you apply power exiting corners. High Rubber content tires (Magenta F/Pink R) help generate more traction to allow for the higher corner speeds and forward bite to put the power down. Efficiency is not an issue as the motors plenty of power and the batteries have plenty of run time.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:33 PM   #39060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AdrianM View Post
61.5mm roll out can be achieved with a 41 pinion, 88 spur and 42mm rear tires.

The formula is:

Diameter x 3.14 (pi) = Circumference
42mm x 3.141 = 131.88mm

Spur gear size / Pinion size = Gear ratio
88/42=2.095
88/41=2.146

Circumference / Gear Ratio = Roll out
131.88/2.095=62.95mm
131.88/2.146=61.45mm

I run the Protoform AMR all the time. I run 13.5 Blinky or 13.5 Boosted (faster than 10.5 Blinky) depending on where I race.

I think bodies are only a really big deal in low power classes like 17.5 and 13.5 blinky. There you have to keep the car free from bogging as much as possible to maintain momentum so lower downforce bodies and synthetic tires help. If I ran 17.5 i'd run the black art R8C with Black F and Yellow R tires. This would work for 13.5 blinky on a very high traction track too.

In 13.5 Blinky or Boosted, 10.5 Blinky or Boosted and Mod you need more downforce to maintain traction in the corners at higher speeds and as you apply power exiting corners. High Rubber content tires (Magenta F/Pink R) help generate more traction to allow for the higher corner speeds and forward bite to put the power down. Efficiency is not an issue as the motors plenty of power and the batteries have plenty of run time.
That helped a lot, thanks. I just discovered this site too http://www.gearchart.com/index.cfm?f...n=chart.create

How much runtime do you typically get from a 10.5 blinky with let's say a 6400mah 1s lipo?
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