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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-08-2013, 07:22 PM   #39016
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I had a odd thing happen to my CRC Gen XL. My car felt pretty good the last week of racing on a med. size carpet track with high bite. My setup worked well but the week after I changed tires to the tire of choice at the track. The next week I tried the tires with no setup change made my car undriveable! I trued the tires to a 1mm gap the same as my other tires. What happen
My setup was close to the Frank Vegas 2011 setup 17.5. My setup could have been off but I can't figure out how I went from pink rear and DDpink fronts to the NEW tires whit/grey rear and grey silver front.
The car was undrivable! Very twitchy and on a tight corner would traction roll!!
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:54 PM   #39017
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I would check if you're dragging the chassis in a hard turn... bolt on a bigger set of tires (like 2mm bigger) and see if it still does it, or use some white-out, grease pen, or even just a dry-erase marker on the bottom flats of the chassis to see if it rolls and compresses enough to catch.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:10 AM   #39018
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What brand of motor pinions/ spur gears do you use? These are the brands I found on amain:

- team epic
- robinson racing
- precision racing
- xray


I'm looking for a good gearing starting point. I'll run on a small indoor carpet track and 10.5 with no timing.
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Last edited by Pulse_; 01-09-2013 at 07:26 AM.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:08 AM   #39019
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CRC pinions and spurs, always.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:36 AM   #39020
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+1 for CRC gears. They may be a bit pricey, but they really are great quality pinions.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:59 AM   #39021
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Trinity/Epic pinions... Kimbrough spurs.
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:35 AM   #39022
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Trinity/Epic pinions are awful! They strip out their screw so easily (they use a very fine pitch set screw), and the mesh noise is awful with those pinions. I am currently replacing all the Epic pinions I have due to them being that bad.

PRS, CRC, or Robinson Racing are your best bet when it comes to long term durability and use. I personally find PRS to be my favorite.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:35 PM   #39023
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Thanks, I use robinson racing and tekno in 1/8 but had no idea for 1/12. To me it's very important, some pinions go better with some spurs too because of how the teeths are designed. I try to have the least amount of noise and a mesh that will stay the same. I use RW spurs in 1/10
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:53 PM   #39024
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
Trinity/Epic pinions are awful! They strip out their screw so easily (they use a very fine pitch set screw), and the mesh noise is awful with those pinions. I am currently replacing all the Epic pinions I have due to them being that bad.
I don't know what gears you are getting... but I have had great luck with all my Epic pinions. Never stripped one and they mesh just as good as the CRC and Robinson pinions I have.
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:58 PM   #39025
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It's not just me, plenty of people I've talked to have stripped them after a few uses. I've lost 2 that way myself. I've never stripped a pinion of any other mfg. And they are the only pinions I have that make my pan cars sound like crap regardless of what spur I use (PRS delrin machined, or kimbrough plastic).
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:11 PM   #39026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clegg View Post
It's not just me, plenty of people I've talked to have stripped them after a few uses. I've lost 2 that way myself. I've never stripped a pinion of any other mfg. And they are the only pinions I have that make my pan cars sound like crap regardless of what spur I use (PRS delrin machined, or kimbrough plastic).
LOL .. it's true, his car sounds horrible with those pinions.

PRS Pinions with PRS Spurs for me .. with a fresh diff, my car is silent.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:13 PM   #39027
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The CRC pinions and spurs are really nice. I was using PRS for awhile but then the new spur gears from CRC and Xenon came out with 16 diff balls so I switched to them for spur gears. Since I had some pinions for my FGX from 3Racing that looked really nice I decided to give them a try for 64 pitch pinion gears as well since they are priced well. I've been quite happy with them.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:16 PM   #39028
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Insp, You know of anywhere in the US you can order Xenon VSS spur gears? Only RCModel seems to carry them online.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:29 PM   #39029
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I don't I bought a handful at the IIC 2 years ago and now that those are worn out I'm using the CRC spur with the smaller diff balls.
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:39 PM   #39030
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I went hunting and found that you can order them through Xenon direct for a fairly reasonable price. 10$ flat EMS shipping from Japan. I just got 6 spurs for ~ 41$ shipped. Not too bad.

http://xenon.ocnk.net/
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