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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!


BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)


Enneti (Xceed)

As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.


If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!


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Old 12-12-2001, 05:54 AM   #376
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Just bought a Corally 12M and installed the electronics. Does everyone hardwire with 12th scale? I've got deans plugs in for ease of use but it is fairly bulky and I don't want the wires putting any tension on the chassis. Thoughts about wiring these smaller cars. Also, has anyone run the 12M - what did you think about it? Any setup changes from box stock?
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Old 12-12-2001, 06:32 AM   #377
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Default carpet knife

i'm all that big on the red stuff either, i'd prefer the silver, but the rear axle that comes with the red stuff has more adjustibility i think.

killa, i'm gonna call billy about his knife & check ebay. found several 12L3's on ebay if anyone is looking. i think i'll find me a knife!
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Old 12-12-2001, 08:49 AM   #378
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The axle with the Red CK is better, but I bought the clamp on hub for $15 from CRC that adds that adjustablilty...

I don't hard wire my batts, I use the Reedy plugs, I am not fast enough to worry about that last bit of juice I might get from hardwiriing...
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Old 12-12-2001, 09:08 AM   #379
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Default has anybody bought or used the team irs, stealth axle???

i am woundering what is this stealth axle from irrgang racing (irs).just woundering what the purpose it does??????
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Old 12-12-2001, 09:22 AM   #380
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Thanks for everyones input. I love the red stuff because of the look....just me. My tc3 is all blue and carbon fiber. The first think i will do to the bloody knife is take the aluminum axle out and put something lighter in there. Oh BTW, should i get the 4 cell, or the sixpack...which is the most popular classes that a run with 1/12th cars

Carpet Killa: College is over until january, i might try to make the haul down there to race. Racing season here is over and im having race withdraws.... Tell me more of your track. In memphis we race in the hobbytown parking lot and use gutters and bricks to layout the track. It real makeshift, but it works good, we usually have 40 racers show up. The club has its own forum on rctech, Midsouth Racing Association, under clubs if you want to take a look.
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Old 12-12-2001, 09:43 AM   #381
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Default reply to al

out track is pretty cool and everone is level minded.which is great..we have our track inside on carpet at the spring brook rec.center next to the airport .we use pvc for track layout and ozite carpet to race on. plenty of pit tables and consession stand with hotdogs ,chili,chips ,drinks,cookies,ect. we race in a gym and the racer's stand is a balcony for the second floor thats about 10 foot off the floor over looking the whole track. its great....here is our link to our clubs form..check it out.also we are racing pretty much every saturday except the 15th and the 22nd cause of family gathering stuff.but here is our site.
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Old 12-12-2001, 12:41 PM   #382
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Kansas Racer,
I think the Bloody Knife is worth the additional $60 over the regular Knife because it has titanium turnbuckles ($6), the right tires for racing ... purple front/ gray rear ($40 for Jacos), rear lowered aluminum bulkhead ($45), aluminum screw kit ($20), fake transponder (not really necessary), plus you get some cool anodizing (not necesary as well). Unless you had the tires and the aluminum screw laying around (the car is kind of heavy compared to a 12L3) it is a pretty good deal.

I personally bought the regular version even though the Bloody Knife was available. Looking back, I should have went with the Bloody Knife. If you are looking to have a top of the line "Factory Team" type car, the Bloody Knife is great. It was my first 1/12th scale in a while so I need to get used to the car and tuning it first before worry about trick upgrades. 1/12th scale is really fun.

The IRS diffs use a fiberglass axle and locking D-rings from a Losi XX. You don't have to glue the rings and they don't slip because they are keyed. Plus it includes a nicely machine left side hub as well. My Carpet Knife came with axle and diff hub but not the nicely machined left side IRS hub.
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Old 12-12-2001, 04:14 PM   #383
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I bought the titanium turnbuckles, and I would like the extended rear pod...

You make a good case....

The red stuff is cool....but I bought a 3.1 kit for $125. Oh well...
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Old 12-12-2001, 06:01 PM   #384
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Default knife 3.1 for $125????

kansasracer, where do you pick up a carpet knife 3.1 for $125? i thought the 3.0 was $125 & the 3.1version was $165.
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Old 12-12-2001, 07:05 PM   #385
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My LHS had one they were trying to get rid of...
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Old 12-12-2001, 08:00 PM   #386
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Default Bloody Transponder


You don't get the Transponder with the BloodyKnife. If you look closely on the box, the small print says it isn't included.

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Old 12-12-2001, 08:11 PM   #387
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Default reply

your correct, i didn't get a fake transponder in my kit ,and they don't have titanium turnbuckles either. they are just black coated turnbuckles. if they are suppose to put that stuff in there . well crc where is mine..
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Old 12-12-2001, 08:30 PM   #388
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Default G3 Owners

How much Rear Damper Syrup should I put? I've just rebuilt them and I don't know how much is needed...
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Old 12-12-2001, 09:03 PM   #389
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Default Re: cool

Originally posted by hyperformance
thanks for the info manticore! what 12car do you run or prefer?
we dont have many options here for 1/12 chassis. Seems 12L3 and corally are available here and 12L3 almost dominate the market since spare part support is good.

We dont have indoor carpet track for 1/12 and we race 1/12 outdoor on asphalt mostly. My favorite 1/12 is Delta. It has excellent performance at outdoor especially parking lot racing.

Right now I have a 12L3 as most of the people do here.

How about the knife? and how much does it cost? I hate T-plate car !
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Old 12-12-2001, 09:19 PM   #390
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Bloody transponder not included?????..............I don't want it then

Why would they put it on the picture if its not included.......retards
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