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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-04-2013, 10:12 PM   #38941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
Thanks for the help. All three ESCs listed are on Novak's discontinued list.. Ugghhh...
There are still some new ones for sale on ebay though:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140899747...#ht_2861wt_952
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290731959...ht_3037wt_1139
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:16 PM   #38942
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If you get one you might need a booster too...As I recall the Novaks don't have one built in.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:20 PM   #38943
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Originally Posted by InspGadgt View Post
If you get one you might need a booster too...As I recall the Novaks don't have one built in.
Really? On what basis does Novak give them their "1S" status then, and how can the seller make this claim "Designed specifically for the extremely high demands of Oval 1S racing"? I'm not saying you're wrong just find it bizarre.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:38 PM   #38944
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Get the Novak Impact Racing Brushless ESC with X-Drive and a Booster NOV5477 with Glitch Buster NOV5626.

I'm guessing you might have to cut the heat sink down so that it will fit under the body.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:43 PM   #38945
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The Havoc 1s did have a booster and only worked on 1s. The Kinetic 1s had no booster but did have the standard BEC in place so that you plugged a small lipo 2s into it and got the same output as if you were running a 2s battery on the standard kinetic. I'm not sure which method the Oval one used.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:56 PM   #38946
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My bad, perfect one for stock here: GTB 2 Racing w/X-Drive- Low Profile (NOV1748). You still need the booster and glitch buster.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:38 PM   #38947
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Looking for an awesome 1S ESC? This is all you need... (it does both 1S and 2S applications)

Viper VTX1
No booster needed.
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Old 01-05-2013, 04:28 AM   #38948
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Quote:
Originally Posted by linkless View Post
The Havoc 1s did have a booster and only worked on 1s. The Kinetic 1s had no booster but did have the standard BEC in place so that you plugged a small lipo 2s into it and got the same output as if you were running a 2s battery on the standard kinetic. I'm not sure which method the Oval one used.
The instructions for my Oval Spec say 1s LiPo only, so I've never tried anything else, and haven't looked inside to see if there is, indeed, a BEC present. The voltage limitation could also be due to to the MOSFET ratings; lower on-resistance parts also tend to have lower operating voltages.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
Really? On what basis does Novak give them their "1S" status then, and how can the seller make this claim "Designed specifically for the extremely high demands of Oval 1S racing"? I'm not saying you're wrong just find it bizarre.
Novak may be referring to the RPM selections for the dynamic timing. Unfortunately, the selections are for very low RPM; only one pair was high enough for 17.5. I asked Charlie about this, and he said that the selections were based on what oval racers had asked for, not necessarily what was correct. Oval guys seem to have a different idea of what works compared to road course guys.
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:18 AM   #38949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
It was the Speedzone 5200mAh 1S Saddle (SZ5200PROSD1S). A Speedzone rep was asking to see if there was interest from enough people to get it re-released not so long ago.
You must be talking about Gavin Creado.

I had a discussion with him in private message about producing these 1s saddle packs again. So if you have some interest please give your input, these batts are made with quality cells and speedzone was the only company making them.

If we had some 1s saddle packs again we could run all our older nimh chassis with lipos, which would be awesome.

I just bought a SP12X and I'm having a hard time to find a lipo conversion, with 1s saddle packs the problem could be solved
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:20 AM   #38950
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Does anybody know what are the ESC that need no booster or added pack for a 1S application?

Viper VTX1
Hobbywing 1S
...

I need your help to complete the list
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Old 01-05-2013, 05:48 AM   #38951
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
You must be talking about Gavin Creado.

I had a discussion with him in private message about producing these 1s saddle packs again. So if you have some interest please give your input, these batts are made with quality cells and speedzone was the only company making them.

If we had some 1s saddle packs again we could run all our older nimh chassis with lipos, which would be awesome.

I just bought a SP12X and I'm having a hard time to find a lipo conversion, with 1s saddle packs the problem could be solved
My interest is for getting more people into 12th scale. In the long run it is cheaper just to buy a dedicated 1S car I reckon, but people keep seeing these really cheap T-bar cars on the net. They buy them, and then they ask me how to get ready to race.

On a completely unrelated matter, I've found a couple of websites that talk about front axle height as a tuning option. But they only say what effect it is supposed to have, not how it produces the effect, and I suspect that this may not apply to all pan car front ends. Can anyone explain to me how front axle height effects handling?
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:51 AM   #38952
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My interest is for getting more people into 12th scale. In the long run it is cheaper just to buy a dedicated 1S car I reckon, but people keep seeing these really cheap T-bar cars on the net. They buy them, and then they ask me how to get ready to race.
I'm in the same boat, that's exactly the reason why speedzone should sell them again.

There will always be pan cars designed for nimh. No other brand is making a 1s saddle lipo so they would own the market. To be honest I don't understand why they stopped the production. I'm in contact with drivers in Europe which would be interested too

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Old 01-05-2013, 07:08 AM   #38953
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1/12 drivers: I need your input
Who would be interesed in 1S SADDLE PACKS for their t-bar designed pan cars?
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:03 AM   #38954
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Originally Posted by Pulse_ View Post
I'm in the same boat, that's exactly the reason why speedzone should sell them again.

There will always be pan cars designed for nimh. No other brand is making a 1s saddle lipo so they would own the market. To be honest I don't understand why they stopped the production. I'm in contact with drivers in Europe which would be interested too
The reason production stoped was that there was little to no demand. Like it or not mainstream 1/12th has gone away from t-bar and link cars are all you will see going forward. The reality is that there is not a big enough and long term market for saddle lipos, yes thay would sell a few right away again but then the product would just sit and stale in inventory. I am all for t-bar cars as I really love the feel of a t-bar car much more than todays link cars, but that is just not the way todays market is. Imo racers have moved on to link cars and are not likely to move back, as another posted link cars can be found used for $100ish in the used market so there is little reason to buy a t-bar car anymore. Most t-bar cars are bought by afew newbies, or someone that just wants to "try" 1/12th. I would bet that in most cases these racers will run the car afew times and then shelve the car or try and resell.

You will notice in my sig line that I am sponsered by Speedzone, great company with quality products. And I have a couple of the original 1s saddle packs, thay work very well the only draw back was the deans connector, needed to have bullit connectors imo. I run my S120(same car as in the pic you linked from redRC) every now and again but like most of the 1/12th world I've moved on. I talked with Gavin back when he was deciding to first try and release these, my advice was that the window of opportunity for sales was small and closing rapidly then, its even smaller now. For all those that have older cars I hope that Gavin can find a way to fill the need again.
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Old 01-05-2013, 10:18 AM   #38955
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The reason production stoped was that there was little to no demand. Like it or not mainstream 1/12th has gone away from t-bar and link cars are all you will see going forward. The reality is that there is not a big enough and long term market for saddle lipos, yes thay would sell a few right away again but then the product would just sit and stale in inventory. I am all for t-bar cars as I really love the feel of a t-bar car much more than todays link cars, but that is just not the way todays market is. Imo racers have moved on to link cars and are not likely to move back, as another posted link cars can be found used for $100ish in the used market so there is little reason to buy a t-bar car anymore. Most t-bar cars are bought by afew newbies, or someone that just wants to "try" 1/12th. I would bet that in most cases these racers will run the car afew times and then shelve the car or try and resell.

You will notice in my sig line that I am sponsered by Speedzone, great company with quality products. And I have a couple of the original 1s saddle packs, thay work very well the only draw back was the deans connector, needed to have bullit connectors imo. I run my S120(same car as in the pic you linked from redRC) every now and again but like most of the 1/12th world I've moved on. I talked with Gavin back when he was deciding to first try and release these, my advice was that the window of opportunity for sales was small and closing rapidly then, its even smaller now. For all those that have older cars I hope that Gavin can find a way to fill the need again.
I see your point but there will always be a demand for these batteries. In the end it will depend on how many batteries have to be sold to make enough profit from it but if this number doesn't need to be crazy high I don't really see the risk. As I said to Gavin every single driver still having a Nimh pan car could be a potential buyer, considering there is no concurrence. It would allow drivers with less money to run the category too, which is always a good thing. A link car can be found for 100$, a t-bar can be found for three times less. It can make the difference.
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