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This is a place to share knowledge related to 1/12th scale racing. It is not to be used for conversations.

KITS:
Click links to go to manufacturer product page. If any are missing please add them!

TIRES:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the US:
Pre-mounted tires readily available in the Europe:
  • Hot Race ??

Gluing your own donuts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm7z1rz-74s - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!
Truing tires:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wqHOLWq6Uc - Special thanks to Edward Pickering!

The following information came from HERE, with some editing and information added. Thanks Christian!

THIS MAY NEED UPDATING FOR THE NEW BLACK CRC CARPET

Brands:
BSR, CRC, Jaco:
Pro One is no longer selling to the public, but it and the brands above are all mounted by BSR and use the same foam. The nomenclature of the BSR vs Jaco/CRC is a little different in a few instances but is otherwise the same. The BSR foam consists of three families, and can be identifed as synthetics, naturals, and blends.

Synthetics - The old school, light weight, easy to true "dry feeling" tires. These include tires like CRC/Jaco Yellow (BSR White), Black, Gray, etc. These tires offer the highest wear rate and lowest grip. Many racers continue to use these nder high bite conditions.

Naturals - These tires are usually the best alternative for low bite and asphalt. They include Pink, Magenta, Double Pink, Lilac (BSR Team Purple), Purple, and other tires. These tires provide a ton of grip, but tend to get sticky in high bite conditions. This rubber does not wear as easily, and the cars will pick up gunk and fibers from the carpet under most high bite conditions. This is especially bad if the humidity is high.

Blends - These are the tires most people run today. They were initially called "JFT foam" by some, as it was believed that the tires were the same as the JFT tires. We can divide the blends further into two groups: high rubber and low rubber content. The high rubber would be the new rear Orange and Red from the BSR family, and the low rubber would be the Green and Blue varieties. When, asked about the difference, John Foister from BSR Tires said they came from the same "family" of foam, but they offered different grip. According to John, the Green/Blue has more bite than Orange/Red, but from track testing Oranges offer more bite than Green (being equivalent to in hardness) when the grip is high and absolutely no grip when it is lower. The Orange foam has a denser pore structure and the tire is not as prone to chunking. It is also important to note is that BSR Blue rears are not the same as the BSR Blue fronts!

JFT:
JFT stands for Japan Foam Tire. They started the new wave of foam tires we are all using now (Blue/Blu, Green/Greene, Dbl Blue, etc). These tires are a little different than the BSR tire family, but work in very similar conditions. They offers four varieties A (asphalt), C (carpet), S (???), and R (???). This does not mean that those types only work on that surface, but this is what they recommend.

JFT uses the same foam for fronts and rears if the color is the same.

A: Used on asphalt, considered close to the natural rubber variety and are named consistently with other natural tires.
C: Used on carpet, considered a blend.
S: Used on carpet?, tires are ???
R: Used on carpet?, tires are ???

For setup, the JFT foam seem to generate more bite than the BSR, therefore the car tends to be a little more aggressive.

Ulti:
Ulti is another Japanese brand that offers an array of compounds. They have their own way of rating tires, and are difficult to equate to other brands. They have 4 different varieties, each in varying degrees of hardness.

J: High rubber content tire, similar to Pink/ Magenta. Soft would be close to a pink. These offer the most bite and are great for asphalt/carpet front tire. (J hard being very popular)
X: "Balanced" blend, similar to JFT Blue/ Green. Soft is equivalent to Green, medium to Blue in hardness. Great for carpet!
Y: High synthetic blend with lower grip, and is not a very popular variety.
Z: A very expensive "special" foam that is supposed to be magic on asphalt. Only make it in soft shore.
European tires:
There are many great European foam tire brands that use their own types of foam, as well as traditional foams. SOmeone with more knowledge about them will need to fill this in!

Tire Diameter:
If you are racing on carpet, you have to evaluate how much grip your track has. If your track is low to medium grip, you can run bigger tires. If you are on higher bite you have to cut them smaller, there is simply no way around it. Bigger tires are needed for asphalt, especially in the rear. The larger tires provide much needed lateral bite.

Carpet (mm):
Low - Medium Bite
Front: 42.0 - 42.5
Rear: 42.5 - 43.00
Medium - High Bite
Front: 40.5 - 41.0
Rear: 41.5 - 42.0
Big Race
Front: 39.5 - 40.0
Rear: 40.5 - 41.0
Asphalt (mm):
Parking Lot
Front: 43.0 - 44.0
Rear: 44.0 - 45.0
Prepped High Bite
Front: 42.0 - 43.0
Rear: 43.0 - 44.0

Tire Saucing:
Most facilities have moved towards odorless traction additives such as SXT. Some of additives evaporate very quickly and some do not. This seems to be something that is also dependent on tire compound and ambient temperature. For example, saucing a Green compound seems like it never dries, especially when tjhe temperature is lower. We have found that wiping the tires off 15 minutes before we go run allows the sauce to cure, which makes the car come in much quicker with Green rears. Blue compounds on the other hand, do fine when wiped off right before hitting the track.

Saucing half front and full rear is a good initial starting point. If the front of the car is too agressive you can sauce les than half, or for a shorter amount of time.
Tire Fuzzing:
In conditions of increasing grip, foam tires will somewtimes get sticky and pick up fuzz and debris from the track. This is highly dependent on the rubber sedan tire that is being run at your local track and the compound/ type of foam you are running on you car. The softer the sedan tire and the harder/higher rubber content in your foam tire, trouble with fuzzing seems more likely to occur.

There are ways to get around fuzzing under most conditions, and usually involves the selection of the correct foam compound. The more fuzz you get, the softer/lower rubber content you want to run.

Examples:
Problem: Car fuzzes with Lilac/Team Purple fronts and car starts pushing.
Solution: Use a softer front tire and or different family of foam. Replace it with Blue or Double Blue front.

Problem: Car loses rear bite 6 minutes into the run. Blue rear tires look almost clean but have small carpet hairs.
Solution: Use Green rear tires. The softer compound wears instead of getting sticky, minimizing fuzz.

Tire Selection:
Starting out, pick 2 tire compounds for the front and rear. The following should have you covered 99% of the time.

Front - Green and Blue (BSR) or Green and Light Blue (JFT)
Rear - Blue and Double Blue (BSR) or Blue and Dark Blue (JFT)

You may wonder about other compounds out there and if they might be better, trust me, they probably won't be. Even if there are other tires that can be as fast, the synthetic family wears out really fast and the high natural rubber will probably fuzz on you over an 8 minute run. The blends family seems to be the most versatile foam type available today. They last awhile, and sticking to them will make your process of tire selection simpler.
Tire Charts:
BSR/CRC/Jaco



Contact



Corally



JFT (Japan Foam Tire)



Ulti



Enneti (Xceed)



ELECTRONICS:
ESC:
As of now, ROAR is staying 1S (3.7V nominal; 4.2V fully charged) for 1/12. There are many 1S ESC's with a built in BEC so nothing else is required to power the receiver and servo.

If you don't want to lock yourself into a 1S specific ESC, you do have other options! It is possible to use your 2S ESC without a booster or receiver pack, and the ESC simply supplies the lower voltage. If that does not appeal to you, you will need to use an Rx pack or booster. The Rx pack and booster will both supply the receiver with a higher voltage than the 1S pack.

If you decide to use an Rx pack, MAKE SURE TO REMOVE THE RED WIRE FROM THE ESC PLUG THAT GOES INTO THE RECEIVER!!!

If you choose to use a voltage booster, it works exactly how it sounds. Instead of plugging the ESC into the receiver, it plugs into the booster, and the booster plug goes to the ESC, supplying the higher voltage.

1S ESC:
If there are any missing please add them!!

If anyone would like a need for a chart comparing the ESC's specs PM fenton06 and I'll get one made and put in here!
Voltage Boosters:
If there are any missing please add them!
Servos:
BODIES:
Black Art (CRC - US Dist):
  • Audi R8C - BA002 - .020 Thick



  • Black Market (Mohawk 12) - BA005 - .020



  • Lola B10 - BA006 - .020 thick
  • Toyota TS030 - BA008 - .020 thick

    Lola - black/red, TS030 - green/pink


PROTOForm:

Reflex Racing/RSD:

SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENTS:

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Old 01-01-2013, 09:08 AM   #38926
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If I am going to be running blinky and have no intention of running mod, do I need to run a separate receiver pack if my esc has a built in booster. I know that in mod the demands on a battery can be so high that you need every bit of energy to go to the motor, but I doubt that is the case in blinky. Am I right, or is there something I am missing?
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:20 AM   #38927
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You're right. If your ESC has a built in booster, you do not need a receiver pack.
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:46 AM   #38928
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My new 5.2 is ready to race tomorrow night. H5020G servo amd Hobbywing 1S speedo.



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Old 01-01-2013, 04:53 PM   #38929
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Looks awesome, very nice and clean installation.

There are good chances I'll be running a similar setup. As I said I won an auction for a new 1s hobbywing speedo and I'm in contact with somebody selling his 12r5.2. It has a 9650 servo but I'd like to compare it to the H5020G. It wiill come with Orion 90C lipos too and BA002 body.

To begin I'll run black or purple tires in the front and yellow or oranges in the rear. It should be easy to drive. Many guys are helping me on petitrc forum.

Let me know what do you think. My radio is a M11X with a 451R receiver so it should be plenty fast enough.
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Old 01-02-2013, 10:36 AM   #38930
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So I am getting a lot of chassis rub when running mod 12th. This is with 10k tube lube running a whole host of different side springs.

Is this something that is fairly common with mod 12th on a fairly technical track, or should I try addressing it with thicker tube lube?

I have only ran mod on very flowing layouts before with very few abrupt direction changes and chicanes, so I am in unfamiliar territory with our current layout. I am also concerned about making the car too edgy and burning through rear traction if I use thicker tube lube, since our carpet is medium traction at best with our normal practice and racing.

Car is a CEFX, currently using 10k tube lube, SM linear side springs just touching. Any ideas?
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Old 01-02-2013, 12:28 PM   #38931
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Edit: Wrong thread.
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Last edited by Clegg; 01-02-2013 at 12:31 PM. Reason: Reply ended up in the wrong thread somehow...
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:26 PM   #38932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
So I am getting a lot of chassis rub when running mod 12th. This is with 10k tube lube running a whole host of different side springs.

Is this something that is fairly common with mod 12th on a fairly technical track, or should I try addressing it with thicker tube lube?

I have only ran mod on very flowing layouts before with very few abrupt direction changes and chicanes, so I am in unfamiliar territory with our current layout. I am also concerned about making the car too edgy and burning through rear traction if I use thicker tube lube, since our carpet is medium traction at best with our normal practice and racing.

Car is a CEFX, currently using 10k tube lube, SM linear side springs just touching. Any ideas?
A stiffer center shock spring will do a better job of holding the momentun change, while stiffer springs usually do mean more steering, when my car was dragging and diffing out it gave me a much better overall traction. If the change of center spring loosens the back end too much, try increasing the angle of the center shock with the old spring to make it more progressive.
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Old 01-02-2013, 01:53 PM   #38933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
A stiffer center shock spring will do a better job of holding the momentun change, while stiffer springs usually do mean more steering, when my car was dragging and diffing out it gave me a much better overall traction. If the change of center spring loosens the back end too much, try increasing the angle of the center shock with the old spring to make it more progressive.
I should have been more specific. I am not actually getting any chassis rub on the middle of the chassis. Most of the chassis rub is on the protrusions where the front pivot balls are mounted for the sidelinks, as well as on the back corners of the main chassis plate (by where the crossbrace posts are mounted). This is why most of my focus has been on tube lube and side springs.

With that said, do you think a center spring change could help with chassis rub on the side edges as well? I don't think I am getting any rub from the car squatting or lifting during momentum changes; it just seems to have a lot of roll.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:01 PM   #38934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LloydLoar View Post
I should have been more specific. I am not actually getting any chassis rub on the middle of the chassis. Most of the chassis rub is on the protrusions where the front pivot balls are mounted for the sidelinks, as well as on the back corners of the main chassis plate (by where the crossbrace posts are mounted). This is why most of my focus has been on tube lube and side springs.

With that said, do you think a center spring change could help with chassis rub on the side edges as well? I don't think I am getting any rub from the car squatting or lifting during momentum changes; it just seems to have a lot of roll.
Lloyd, I figured you meant the sides where the pivots are, and probably dragging the side of the pod at the link mounting point as well. In order for either point to drag, the center spring has to compress a long way as the front roll is quite stiff. I think a stiffer center spring will help you out if you don't want to go to heavier side fluid and changing side springs didn't help.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:07 PM   #38935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRat View Post
Lloyd, I figured you meant the sides where the pivots are, and probably dragging the side of the pod at the link mounting point as well. In order for either point to drag, the center spring has to compress a long way as the front roll is quite stiff. I think a stiffer center spring will help you out if you don't want to go to heavier side fluid and changing side springs didn't help.
Ok great, that makes sense to me. I spent most of my time yesterday trying out different tires and side springs, so this weekend I can try out a stiffer center spring to see what happens.

I have also found that in situations where changing side springs doesn't result in any changes to handling, lap times, roll, etc, it typically will mean that my tube lube isn't the right thickness. As such, I might try pulling off one of the tubes just to see what the car does. Josh typically says that 15k is the most you can run in the tubes with mod before worrying about losing the rear end, so I have a little bit of wiggle room if I need to go stiffer (although I am no Josh, so I am not even sure if 15k will work for me). Thanks!
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Old 01-04-2013, 05:45 PM   #38936
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I'm driving a link car with an old school front end, and am chasing more steering at the exits of corners. Corner entry steering is quite sharp, and the mid-corner is ok. What change can I make that will target steering at the corner exit? Should I investigate ackerman or bump-steer changes?
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:19 PM   #38937
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I have an FTM FTR 12, that I purchased a few years back but never fully built, kids etc.. I sold my T2 so now I need to build this to have something to play with.

I'm looking to get out a few times this year and wanted to finish off the car <battery, esc, motor>.

I will run stock class and am partial to novak. What is the roar legal novak esc and motor that will fit this car?

Also the car has the tbar running through the middle, what kind of battery fits the car now that everything is lipo?

please only mention roar approved.
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Old 01-04-2013, 07:24 PM   #38938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
I have an FTM FTR 12, that I purchased a few years back but never fully built, kids etc.. I sold my T2 so now I need to build this to have something to play with.

I'm looking to get out a few times this year and wanted to finish off the car <battery, esc, motor>.

I will run stock class and am partial to novak. What is the roar legal novak esc and motor that will fit this car?

Also the car has the tbar running through the middle, what kind of battery fits the car now that everything is lipo?

please only mention roar approved.
There used to be a saddle pack - look back through the thread. I think they said they would make a 1 off if you needed it. But that or run Nimh cells is your only choice. I think the saddle was ROAR when it was made.

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Old 01-04-2013, 08:03 PM   #38939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
There used to be a saddle pack - look back through the thread. I think they said they would make a 1 off if you needed it. But that or run Nimh cells is your only choice. I think the saddle was ROAR when it was made.

James
It was the Speedzone 5200mAh 1S Saddle (SZ5200PROSD1S). A Speedzone rep was asking to see if there was interest from enough people to get it re-released not so long ago.

Novak dedicated 1S ESCs that are on the ROAR Approved no timing list are:

NOV1731 Novak Havoc 1 Cell
NOV1741 Kinetic 1S Racing Brushless ESC
NOV1743 OVAL SPEC 1S Brushless ESC

Assuming you are in the US, and are therefore interested in either 13.5 blinky or 17.5 blinky, motors:

13.5 Novak 3413SS
13.5 Novak Ballistic 3613
17.5 Novak Ballistic 3617
17.5 Novak 3417 SS 17.5 Pro
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:05 PM   #38940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Radio Active View Post
It was the Speedzone 5200mAh 1S Saddle (SZ5200PROSD1S). A Speedzone rep was asking to see if there was interest from enough people to get it re-released not so long ago.

Novak dedicated 1S ESCs that are on the ROAR Approved no timing list are:

NOV1731 Novak Havoc 1 Cell
NOV1741 Kinetic 1S Racing Brushless ESC
NOV1743 OVAL SPEC 1S Brushless ESC

Assuming you are in the US, and are therefore interested in either 13.5 blinky or 17.5 blinky, motors:

13.5 Novak 3413SS
13.5 Novak Ballistic 3613
17.5 Novak Ballistic 3617
17.5 Novak 3417 SS 17.5 Pro

Thanks for the help. All three ESCs listed are on Novak's discontinued list.. Ugghhh...
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